what paint you guys using to paint an AXLE

i have a complete D44 thats rebuild and needs a paint job, went to a local Lowes got me a bbq high temp flat black paint, painted it, looks good.. i decided to test for chemical resistance so i rubbed some brake fluid on it with a rag and the paint rubbed right off... wtf?


what spay can high temp paint do you guys use?

ace appliance epoxy

Always used rustoleum brush on.

i've had good luck with Rustoleum hammer-tone spray cans.

Brake fluid will take most normal paints off. Second on the Rustoleum Hammered.

rustoleom gloss black, easy to touch up and seems pretty durable, brake fluid will take it off if it fresh

I use Raptor liner. Pretty much the only paints that can take chemical abuse are two part paints basically anything you have to mix a hardner into. There are a few exceptions (chassis saver comes to mind) but over all anything with a hardening agent will hold up to brake fluid (for short periods of time). Anything else like lacquer based paints and rattle cans will usually wipe right off with some brake clean or brake fluid.

If you do go with raptor liner bed liner (I like tintable with a dark gray for axles) don't go over board inside the control arm brackets. The stuff can really build up and make it difficult for the control arms to slide in. Also mask off the cover mating surface real good along with ball joint tapers.

MUKAK714 said:

what spay can high temp paint do you guys use?

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I have not found a paint that holds up to gravel chipping so the bottom of the XJ is spray painted with a black, oil-base enamel.
Rustoleum Black Hammertone works OK. This year, I used Rustoleum's Matt-Custom Shop spray. It has worked well on other painted parts.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Ole...AT-_-0e25ae74-f14e-49db-ba7a-f1f9860c4081-_-x.

Once a year, everything on the undercarriage that is showing rust or chipping gets a fresh coat of paint. Driving a couple thousand miles or more every year, on sand and gravel roads, blasts much of undercarriage and rear axle down to bare metal.
A two part bed coating would be interesting to try in the worse spots, maybe next year.

kaker123 said:

rustoleom gloss black, easy to touch up and seems pretty durable, brake fluid will take it off if it fresh

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^This, over metal etching primer. Need to watch re-coat and curing, or it will wrinkle, but I've been pretty happy with the results.

brake fluid will pretty much eat ANY paint.

high-temp paint doesn't seem to adhere as well as other paints. I pretty much just use Krylon semi-gloss in a spray bomb and plan on touching it up every now and then.

lazyxj said:

I have not found a paint that holds up to gravel chipping so the bottom of the XJ is spray painted with a black, oil-base enamel.
Rustoleum Black Hammertone works OK. This year, I used Rustoleum's Matt-Custom Shop spray. It has worked well on other painted parts.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Ole...AT-_-0e25ae74-f14e-49db-ba7a-f1f9860c4081-_-x.

Once a year, everything on the undercarriage that is showing rust or chipping gets a fresh coat of paint. Driving a couple thousand miles or more every year, on sand and gravel roads, blasts much of undercarriage and rear axle down to bare metal.
A two part bed coating would be interesting to try in the worse spots, maybe next year.

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2 part bed liner for the underside is the way to go. My entire underside of my Xj is spray on 2 part black raptor liner. I primed it with chassis saver and then shot the raptor liner on top. I did this 4 years ago and it still looks like the day I did it. It's gone through 4 Chicago winters and I've also blasted it on sand dunes and the stuff wasn't even phased by it. It is a ton of work because every inch of the factory rubberized undercoating has to be removed. The solvents that are used in chassis saver and raptor liner or monstaliner will lift the factory rubberized undercoating.

I didn't really find a great way to remove the undercoating it was a process of several tools. The bulk of it was removed with a wire wheel on a angle grinder and a oscillating multitool from harbor freight with a scraper bit. I also tried aircraft paint remover. It didn't work a whole lot faster then the grinder or scraper and you got the added benefit of getting acid burnt from the splatter of the paint remover. I did the raptor liner in conjunction with my lift and fabbing my skids. So the axles were out, the fuel tank was out, the leafs and all the control arms where out and the exhaust and cross member where out. I was able to then lower the trans and lift the engine as needed to get the remaining spots. This is NOT a weekend job. My jeep was down for quite a long time with this project. The bulk was removing the undercoating. I also did my rust free yj with the same process.

Paint? An axle??

Krylon low gloss black. Shake and paint...wheel...repeat.

souske said:

ace appliance epoxy

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^This. Takes a bit to fully dry but tough stuff. That is what my cage and front axle are painted with. I did the inside of the front axle tubes with POR 15 to keep them from rusting and getting nasty.

why do you need hi-temp?

I've been using rustoleum and krylon satin black interchangeably... there is really no difference.

Mine is painted with mud but I don't think is the kind of paint you are looking for

I just use rustolium etching primer and any gloss color I want. Sure some fluids will take it off. But its easy to touch it up. Its just going to get scraped off by the rocks any way.

I used DuPont low gloss black on mine with SEM primer, it seems tough enough and both were spraybombs that I bought through my account at a auto paint and supply store.
Prepping the right way so there's proper adhesion is important as well as a nice clean surface..

I had mine powder coated, biggest waste of money. I'll second rustoleum hammered brush on.

souske said:

ace appliance epoxy

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I used the brush on Rustoleum version "Appliance Epoxy Enamel". It dries very hard. Poor mans POR-15.

blenny said:

I had mine powder coated, biggest waste of money. I'll second rustoleum hammered brush on.

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Go chrome or go home.