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Good Lift Kit Vendors to do business with?

X

Xjin85

NAXJA Forum User
Location
MA
Hey guys,

I'm looking to make one of the biggest purchases of my life and was wondering if you fellas could point me in the right direction for sponsored vendors on NAJXJA that you had a good experience with who helped save you money.

I will be buying:

-Rubicon Express Super-ride 3.5 lift kit
-Rubicon Twin-tube Shocks
-Rubicon Express Adj. front track bar
-New wheels and tires (undecided which to get yet.)

So if you know of any good
 
Not sure any lift kits are worth a shit.

Anything titled "lift kit" is meant to take as much of your money with the least amount of investment and effort from the seller.

A suspension system would be a big investment a junk lift kit with junk shocks and parts not so much.

This will require effort time and investment on your end to decide what is the correct path to take for you. I guess thats why your here.

Sfr 3 link, rock link, paired with propper supporting parts, shocks(not junk lift kit shocks). These arent the only suspension to go with in the front just ones i have experince with

Brake lines, slip yoke elimator, drive line's rear springs, shackles, shocks

For what its worth theres very few well set up xjs on the street or trail. Most drive steer and ride like shit . But i guess they look cool

A small tire xj on grippy tires and front locker will be very capable machine on the street and trail with propper gear on bored. Bypassing the need for a lift kit in the first place.

Sent from my SM-G781U using Tapatalk
 
I'm sure you'll hear a variety of responses, and people have a wide range of expectations of quality and functionality. No kit is perfect, so be prepared to be disappointed in some aspects.
 
As for a kit, then Iron Rock Offroad (IRO) or DPG. I do not have a kit from either, though. I would go with piecing something together. Also, depends on what level you want to build to. Yeah, what $$$ to spend. Also, as mentioned in your other thread, look at a front long arm stet up. Again, price. I went with Ironman front and rear. I am considering Dirt Bound or IRO as an upgrade on my 2" short arm XJ. I do have some Stinky Fab parts. his stuff is usually way over built. Which is good.
On your 3-1/2 springs, I have Old Man Emu I bought from DPG. Changes in build plans, I haven't installed them. I might go with them and the 3-1/2 front springs from Metal Cloak on my 2" lifted XJ.
 
Guys,
I cant thank you enough for your input and advice.

Evan03 said:
Not sure any lift kits are worth a shit.

Anything titled "lift kit" is meant to take as much of your money with the least amount of investment and effort from the seller.

A suspension system would be a big investment a junk lift kit with junk shocks and parts not so much.

This will require effort time and investment on your end to decide what is the correct path to take for you. I guess thats why your here.

Sfr 3 link, rock link, paired with propper supporting parts, shocks(not junk lift kit shocks). These arent the only suspension to go with in the front just ones i have experince with

Brake lines, slip yoke elimator, drive line's rear springs, shackles, shocks

For what its worth theres very few well set up xjs on the street or trail. Most drive steer and ride like shit . But i guess they look cool

A small tire xj on grippy tires and front locker will be very capable machine on the street and trail with propper gear on bored. Bypassing the need for a lift kit in the first place.

Sent from my SM-G781U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I hear you. That's my biggest concern is how it will effect driveability. My xj is my daily driver and I work in Boston so there is a shit-ton of bumps and potholes. Although, I want this thing to be as "off-road capable" as possible the most important thing is that it drives as smoothly as possible on the streets so i don't feel every bump and pothole on the road. I will be taking it off-roading for hunting, etc. but won't be doing any over-the-top wheeling.

So you just had me rethink my "lift plan" and instead of going for a kid I may just "cherry pick" each part of my lift and make a Frankenstein lift.

**The question is, What parts should I get that are cheaper and more affordable (such as RC) that are not as important that can save a few bucks on AND what parts should I buy that are of better quality (like shocks) so I can get the best street ride possible? (without spending an arm and a leg)

From what I've read Billsten 5100 shocks seem to be a good choice for "on-the-road" drivability and absorb bumps and potholes well.

*Also, from what I've researched finding and installing the correct Shackle and Drop Brackets are wicked important also for a smoother ride.

I have a 01 xj with the Dana 35's that have the 3:55 gear ratio.
I plan on running 32x 11.50 tires on them and don't plan on re-gearing my axles until next year. I will also be buying a SYE and Rubicon Trac-Bar to put on my lift.




75SV1 said:
As for a kit, then Iron Rock Offroad (IRO) or DPG. I do not have a kit from either, though. I would go with piecing something together. Also, depends on what level you want to build to. Yeah, what $$$ to spend. Also, as mentioned in your other thread, look at a front long arm stet up. Again, price. I went with Ironman front and rear. I am considering Dirt Bound or IRO as an upgrade on my 2" short arm XJ. I do have some Stinky Fab parts. his stuff is usually way over built. Which is good.
On your 3-1/2 springs, I have Old Man Emu I bought from DPG. Changes in build plans, I haven't installed them. I might go with them and the 3-1/2 front springs from Metal Cloak on my 2" lifted XJ.
Click to expand...

Wow, man! Great stuff! Thank you for sharing. I am going to take your advise and "piece together" my lift kit. Now I am just trying to figure out what "cheaper" components I can spend less on that are not so important and which more expensive components to buy that are more important for better drivability. If you could help me choose the right parts i would GREATLY appreciate it. Unfortunately, the IRO, DPG, and Old man Kits are way to expensive for my budget. Ideally, I am trying to piece the entire lift kit with an initial max budget of $1100 max just to get it in the air. Later as time goes by I will add to the kit to make it better.

Initially, I was going to buy the cheaper Rough Country 3'inch lift AAL system but decided not to go with the AAL system bc it rides very stiffly. So I decided to go the full-leaf route.

So, So far I am thinking:

-Rubicon Express Coils springs
-Rubicon Adj track bar
-Bilsten 5100 shocks
-Zone Leaf Springs (seems like a good option)

Also what about
-Control arms: ?
-Brackets?
-Shackes? (angle?)
-Shims?
-Ubolts?

Any advice on HOW and WHAT to buy separately so I can piece my own lift together and what to spend more and less on would be a great help. I just want to have a nice ride that looks and feels good on and off-road without breaking the bank but having the "right" high-quality and less expensive components.

I also want to thank everyone on this forum who has helped me. It's been 2 years since i entered the XJ community and it's become an obsession. I have learned so much on this forum and it has brought a HUGE amount of happiness in my life which I really needed and a great hobby. I couldn't have done any of this without the help from you guys. Looking forward to keeping growing an learning on here. Soon I will be starting my own thread with everything I have done on my XJ and it will be a continuing project! Anyways, yea..thanks guys
 
Xjin85 said:
Guys,

So, So far I am thinking:

-Rubicon Express Coils springs
-Rubicon Adj track bar
-Bilsten 5100 shocks
-Zone Leaf Springs (seems like a good option)

Also what about
-Control arms: ?
-Brackets?
-Shackes? (angle?)
-Shims?
-Ubolts?

Any advice on HOW and WHAT to buy separately so I can piece my own lift together and what to spend more and less on would be a great help. I just want to have a nice ride that looks and feels good on and off-road without breaking the bank but having the "right" high-quality and less expensive components.
/QUOTE]

DO NOT BUY THE ZONE LEAFS, unless you want to spend a few hundred dollars on shackle relocation brackets, shackles and very high-quality shocks.
The leaves themselves do not come with bushings either.
Ive had these for about a year, (3" springs gave me about 5' inches of lift, correct part number ive checked 400 times) they ride like shit, have horrible droop and you need a locker center pin thing to run axle shims
Click to expand...
 
Xjin85 said:
Guys,
...

So you just had me rethink my "lift plan" and instead of going for a kid I may just "cherry pick" each part of my lift and make a Frankenstein lift.

...
Click to expand...

The Frankenstein approach can certainly work, but I don't think all kits are shit. I continue to encourage you to look at the IRO kit. It comes with new upper and lower control arms, the control arms are length adjustable which is good for setting caster, the leaves are well regarded, it comes with a double shear track bar and mount, and there are three choices of shocks, including Bilstein 5125 if you want Bilstein. The two concerns I have with this kit are that the spring rate of the coil springs is not mentioned, and I would be concerned that the 3.5" lift leaves are going to create too much lift at the rear. The leaf spring issue is readily solved by removing a leaf. I'd call IRO to discuss spring rate (and the amount of lift at the rear).

If you want it to ride as best as possible go with the lowest lift you can stand because the more the control arms get angled downward (due to more lift), the harsher the baseline ride becomes regardless of what shocks and spring rate are used.

If your XJ is mostly going to be street driven, there is not much more that is needed beyond that kit, but you could consider:

- Replace the axle-side upper bushings.
- If you don't go with aftermarket upper arms, be sure to replace the bushings for the upper arms, include the axle-side upper bushings.
- Check and replace steering linkage if boots are ripped or obvious free play.
- Secure the track bar to the axle with a 9/16" bolt.
- Install a steel steering box spacer.
- Install at least a basic steering box brace. Even those cheap ones that tie the box to the other unibody rail provide some bracing.
- Remove the rear sway bar if its still there. Its not needed.
- Consider replacing motor and transmission mount.

Xjin85 said:
...

I have a 01 xj with the Dana 35's that have the 3:55 gear ratio.
I plan on running 32x 11.50 tires on them and don't plan on re-gearing my axles until next year. I will also be buying a SYE and Rubicon Trac-Bar to put on my lift.

...
Click to expand...

32s require significant lift (4") or fender cutting to not rub under some relatively normal driving conditions. You'd be much better served to go with 31s. Can run stock fenders with 3" lift no prob. And 31s will look good with a low lift.

If you lift only 3", an SYE shouldn't be needed, but if you want to help correct driveline angles, consider a transmission mount spacer. They'll provide some correction to the front and rear driveshaft angles. People will complain that a transmission mount spacer twists the motor mount, but I think its a pretty minor amount of twist. Hard to imagine that it has any effect on the remaining life of the motor mounts.
 
I've had good success with Rusty's lift kits, both 3" short arm and 4.5" long arm.
 
Back when I was looking for parts for the xj rusty prices seemed good but his shipping charges killed it for me.
 
jeep ride said:
Back when I was looking for parts for the xj rusty prices seemed good but his shipping charges killed it for me.
Click to expand...

I had the same experience with some bushing for the trackbar. In another thread, they are suppose to have free shipping on order over $100. I did look and their rear springs are $450. The IRO's are $350, so check the shipping. OP, check the thread on Ironman Shackle relocation bracket. Some info on springs etc.

Also, I have used, Rough Country, CORE and JKS control arms. I like the COREs out of the three. The top ones were $120 or so. The bottoms were $200. I could see going with a fixed lower if the price is right. Not sure on RC, but I did see fixed ones for $100. I think others are $150 or so. Also, check on WJ lower control arms. I think they are OK for a 3.5 lift. Would depend on price and what used condition.
Also, on RE Trackbars, I hear there is a good one to get and one that is so-so. I will add that they do have a Trackbar brace setup. It attaches to their Trackbar bracket. I was going to say look at Stinky Fabs OTK setup. I have that on my '00 with 2" lift. I didn't see it on his website. ??
 
75SV1 said:
I had the same experience with some bushing for the trackbar. In another thread, they are suppose to have free shipping on order over $100. I did look and their rear springs are $450. The IRO's are $350, so check the shipping. OP, check the thread on Ironman Shackle relocation bracket. Some info on springs etc.

Also, I have used, Rough Country, CORE and JKS control arms. I like the COREs out of the three. The top ones were $120 or so. The bottoms were $200. I could see going with a fixed lower if the price is right. Not sure on RC, but I did see fixed ones for $100. I think others are $150 or so. Also, check on WJ lower control arms. I think they are OK for a 3.5 lift. Would depend on price and what used condition.
Also, on RE Trackbars, I hear there is a good one to get and one that is so-so. I will add that they do have a Trackbar brace setup. It attaches to their Trackbar bracket. I was going to say look at Stinky Fabs OTK setup. I have that on my '00 with 2" lift. I didn't see it on his website. ??
Click to expand...
Edit: I did see the Stinky's OTK setup on the link below. Glad its still available. I think I saw $355 for just the OTK. I do remember someone just doing the OTK trackbar and no OTK steering.
 
I think a 2-3" lift front control arm drop brackets and leave steering stock for now.

In the rear stock leafs with shackle relocation box maybe stinky fab.

The 5100s might work okay.

32s can fit. I ran 33x12.5s on 2" minus lift for about 3 years with fenders in different stages of cut as my lift progressed from short arm with little travel to long arm holy shit we gotta cut lots more.
It was the long arm stage i decided to go ahead and get longer brake lines.

I really think you dont need to lift. Stuff 31x10.5s under it make them fit with some cutting or metal beating tools.
Toss a winch bumper on it get a 12k badlands from harbor freight.

Maybe do front locker, rear bumper, buy welder to do rocker panel sliders.
Maybe welder first so you can weld together ebay winch bumper kits aswell as rear bumper. Can you weld?

For a daily driver a 3" on short arms isnt goin to ride super great gravel rds itl mostly ride horrible on washboard and big bumps.
A stock jeep rides gravel roads much better and not near as harsh on bigger bumps doesnt try to dart of the road when asphalt pot holes jump up on you.

If you have to lift it i think it might be better investing a few thousand in a second jeep that can be your project jeep.
Lift it do whatever you you want no time constraints it doesnt have to get you to work tomorrow or today its 4am and you just found out the front leaf spring nut came off inside frame.

Sent from my SM-G781U using Tapatalk
 
maxbraketorque said:
If you want it to ride as best as possible go with the lowest lift you can stand because the more the control arms get angled downward (due to more lift), the harsher the baseline ride becomes regardless of what shocks and spring rate are used.
Click to expand...

If your XJ is mostly going to be street driven, there is not much more that is needed beyond that kit, but you could consider:

- Replace the axle-side upper bushings.
- If you don't go with aftermarket upper arms, be sure to replace the bushings for the upper arms, include the axle-side upper bushings.
- Check and replace steering linkage if boots are ripped or obvious free play.
- Secure the track bar to the axle with a 9/16" bolt.
- Install a steel steering box spacer.
- Install at least a basic steering box brace. Even those cheap ones that tie the box to the other unibody rail provide some bracing.
- Remove the rear sway bar if its still there. Its not needed.
- Consider replacing motor and transmission mount.
Click to expand...

This is the perfect advice that I was looking for!! Thank you!

Also, what about buying replacement hardware to be prepared for the unexpected? I was thinking
-Rear Leaf spring Bolts & Nuts
-Front Coil Spring retaining Jacket
-Front Contol arm Bolts & Nuts

Any other nut or bolt or bracket or shackel I should get? My stock suspension components are VERY rusty (New England Jeep)


Great Stuff man. Thanks for sharing this. I am going to pass on the SYE until I know if I really need it. What about a steering stabilizer?


Evan03 said:
I think a 2-3" lift front control arm drop brackets and leave steering stock for now.

In the rear stock leafs with shackle relocation box maybe stinky fab.

The 5100s might work okay.
Click to expand...

What is a better alternative shock that's around the same price point 5100's?
I already bought the 5100's but can return them if there is a better option. I read that alot of xj owners enjoyed the 5100's for driving on the street.

[/QUOTE]
Maybe do front locker, rear bumper, buy welder to do rocker panel sliders.
Maybe welder first so you can weld together ebay winch bumper kits aswell as rear bumper. Can you weld?

[/QUOTE]

I can weld! That sounds like a good idea. Right now I am just trying to get it lifted and driveabilt with the bear minimum and plan to add the rest in stages.

For a daily driver a 3" on short arms isnt goin to ride super great gravel rds itl mostly ride horrible on washboard and big bumps.
A stock jeep rides gravel roads much better and not near as harsh on bigger bumps doesnt try to dart of the road when asphalt pot holes jump up on you.
Click to expand...

What if I install a relocation bracket? would this fix some of the stiffness and ride? if so what bracket with angle do you recommend with a 3" lift?

If you have to lift it i think it might be better investing a few thousand in a second jeep that can be your project jeep.
Lift it do whatever you you want no time constraints it doesnt have to get you to work tomorrow or today its 4am and you just found out the front leaf spring nut came off inside frame.
Click to expand...

I have an I wish! I just don't have the money. Used car prices are through the rough in Boston.


I bough Zone country 3" coils and leafs. Will be getting started in a few days once I know I have all the EXTRA REPLACEMENT PEICES so I can be ready for set-back
 
Xjin85 said:
This is the perfect advice that I was looking for!! Thank you!

Also, what about buying replacement hardware to be prepared for the unexpected? I was thinking
-Rear Leaf spring Bolts & Nuts
-Front Coil Spring retaining Jacket
-Front Contol arm Bolts & Nuts

Any other nut or bolt or bracket or shackel I should get? My stock suspension components are VERY rusty (New England Jeep)


Great Stuff man. Thanks for sharing this. I am going to pass on the SYE until I know if I really need it. What about a steering stabilizer?




What is a better alternative shock that's around the same price point 5100's?
I already bought the 5100's but can return them if there is a better option. I read that alot of xj owners enjoyed the 5100's for driving on the street.

Maybe do front locker, rear bumper, buy welder to do rocker panel sliders.
Maybe welder first so you can weld together ebay winch bumper kits aswell as rear bumper. Can you weld?
Click to expand...

I can weld! That sounds like a good idea. Right now I am just trying to get it lifted and driveabilt with the bear minimum and plan to add the rest in stages.



What if I install a relocation bracket? would this fix some of the stiffness and ride? if so what bracket with angle do you recommend with a 3" lift?



I have an I wish! I just don't have the money. Used car prices are through the rough in Boston.


I bough Zone country 3" coils and leafs. Will be getting started in a few days once I know I have all the EXTRA REPLACEMENT PEICES so I can be ready for set-back
Click to expand...
 
I did check on the WJ lower control arms. They are reported as 14" center to center. The stock XJs are 15 inches or so. So, I don't see using the WJs. I might go with drop brackets and stock lowers and a CORE upper for adjustability.

Also, on shocks, the Bilstein 5100s are on the stiff side. I do have a set. I remember them being $90 each. I do run KYB Monomax on the front of my 2" on 31's. Almost as stiff as the Bilsteins. I did run some silver KYBs on my stock '98 on the front. I liked them, but I think a bit stiffer shock would be better.

Also, you have ABS?
 
Yes control arm drop brackets are a game changer at 3" gets you back to nearly factory angles and keeps the ride best as possible.
Probly ride as good or better than 4-6" long arm because link geometry is better. You just might not have quite as much over all wheel travel

I do not know what drop brackets. Probly just ruff country or something cheap.

The long arm jeeps will be jealus

Sent from my SM-G781U using Tapatalk
 
So my entire order with Morriss4x4 got completely F@#CKED UP!

Not only did they send my order with missing components (only sent me 1 of the 2 rear leafs) they also made an unauthorized purchase against my account and sent me a random lift kit that I didn't order. Now they are telling me to send it back and won't give me my money back until they receive it. ITS BEEN A NIGHTMARE doing business with these guys.

Not only that but I lost 2 days of work and out $100 bucks on gas bc of all of this. During this entire time trying to get this straightened out with them NOTHING has been resolved nor have they offered in any way to remedy the situation they caused. In addition, all my request and questions on the matter have been ignored. I will never do business with these folks again as it's obvious I am not a "valued customer."


Anyways, because of this, my project is put on hold until next week.

I ended up getting
-1.5" rear shackle relocation kit from k suspension
https://www.ksuspensionfab.com/store/p142/Jeep_Cherokee_XJ_Shackle_Relocation_Brackets_%28SRB%29.html#/
-1'' inch coil spring spacers
https://www.amazon.com/Takeo-Leveling-Wrangler-Cherokee-Comanche/dp/B08K4PYZJW/ref=sr_1_11?crid=2HOBSK5BXI6WS&keywords=jeep+cherokee+xj+front+coil+spring+spacers&qid=1676236444&s=automotive&sprefix=jeep+cherokee+xj+front+coil+spring+spacers%2Cautomotive%2C114&sr=1-11
-Lower Fixed Control Arms
https://www.amazon.com/Rough-Country-1071-compatible-1997-2006/dp/B00DQD3PU0/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=jeep+cherokee+xj+control+arm&qid=1676236315&s=automotive&sr=1-10
-Front Control arm drop relocation bracket
https://www.amazon.com/Relocation-Compatible-1984-2001-Cherokee-1986-1992/dp/B09PTTLL82?tag=namespacebran76-20&keywords=jeep+cherokee+xj+control+arm+drop+bracket&sprefix=jeep+cherokee+xj+control+arm+%2Caps%2C569


This will effectively bring my front to 4"inches of lift and rear with 4.5" inches.
I am second guessing the RC fixed control arms and thinking maybe I should have went with adjustable for better castor and pinion angle.

Do you think it's necessary to get a drop pitman arm or will the stock suffice?

I also ended up buying:
- BPE's for both front and rear shocks
-Flowmaster Cat
 
I called them ounce to see if they had stuff in stock. The 3 people who attempted to help me new virtually nothing about the parts they may or not have instock.

Needless to say i spent the 1800 elsewhere and have never contacted since or even opened theyre website.

Sent from my SM-G781U using Tapatalk
 
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