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XJ suspension

bwhitlock

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Ca
I am looking for info on which lift to use on my 2000 XJ. May have put the cart before the horse a little with 15x8 Welds, 31x10.50 BFGs and a 3" lift from 4wd hardware. Needs more lift. I am experiencing some front tire rub. My main Jeepin Jeep is an 84 Cj7 w/efi ford 9' w lockers front and rear, bought the xj for towing behind and more room for grandkids and labradors, but I want it to perform offroad as well as on the highway. Looking at the Rubicon Express 5.5 or the Full Traction 6' long arm. Obviously I'll need to make driveshaft mods and will add a locker in the rear. You long time XJ folks will no doubt have some info for me.
 
What's the backspacing on those new rims? I think you are correct that you jumped the gun, because 3" of lift should be MORE than enough to run 31" tires ... with stock rims. I've met people who ran 31s with NO lift. (In fact, I did for a couple of weeks.) Where are you encountering rubbing ... the outer shoulders of the tires hitting the flares on compression?
 
The rub comes with turning, outer shoulder of tire hits back of front flare and requires very little or no compression for it to rub. I really don't want to go to the cut out flare.
 
Eagle said:
What's the backspacing on those new rims? I think you are correct that you jumped the gun, because 3" of lift should be MORE than enough to run 31" tires ... with stock rims. I've met people who ran 31s with NO lift. (In fact, I did for a couple of weeks.) Where are you encountering rubbing ... the outer shoulders of the tires hitting the flares on compression?
I respectfully disagree. My 97 xj ran a 3" ProComp (i know, i know) with the 31x10.50 ProComp mud terrains on 15x8" black steelies with 3.75" b/s. My rear tires tore off my factory fender flares when bottoming out, (as you mentioned) and the fronts would touch at full lock under compression.
 
ArcticXJ said:
I respectfully disagree. My 97 xj ran a 3" ProComp (i know, i know) with the 31x10.50 ProComp mud terrains on 15x8" black steelies with 3.75" b/s. My rear tires tore off my factory fender flares when bottoming out, (as you mentioned) and the fronts would touch at full lock under compression.

Eagle specified "stock wheels". You're setup had 1 1/2" less backspacing than stock. Where's the disagreement? The Weld wheels probably have too little backspacing for the application; same as the black steelies.
 
MaXJohnson said:
Eagle specified "stock wheels". You're setup had 1 1/2" less backspacing than stock. Where's the disagreement? The Weld wheels probably have too little backspacing for the application; same as the black steelies.

Ah, i see. I skimmed right past the "... with stock rims." Good catch Mr. Johnson.
 
That's how I omnisciently predicted that the original poster was having the tires hit the flares when the suspension compresses. Apparently none of the after-market wheel manufacturers offers a rim with as much backspacing as the stock Jeep rims. Running 31s on stock rims you do get slight rubbing on the lower control arms at full steering lock, but the tires will tuck inside of the flares. Run a wheel with less backspacing and you cure the LCA rubbing but you then have an interference fit with the flares.
 
OK, so it's been a week and we all agree the backspacing on the Weld wheels might be off a little but back to my main question, which lift is the best way to go, the Full Traction 6" long arm or the Rubicon Express 5.5?
 
bwhitlock said:
OK, so it's been a week and we all agree the backspacing on the Weld wheels might be off a little but back to my main question, which lift is the best way to go, the Full Traction 6" long arm or the Rubicon Express 5.5?

I think this is another "what are you going to use it for" question... the long arm is going to cost considerably more... do you really need long arms? Or can you get by with short arms. What tire do you want to run... this thing will look funny with a 6" lift and 31's as well as be top heavy. Besides the reason to lift is for larger tires to get that pumpkin off the ground.... I would bet there are posts on both lifts with the pros and cons of each...
 
I'd just cut to fit. Keep your cog low. Cut, move stock flares up slightly or simply cut them off at the body curve. Writeups all over the place to show you how. 3 inches of lift on 31s is plenty.

Now if you're going taller than 5 inches or so I happen to like the geometry you get with long arms. Everyone has a prefence on this though so don't simply go out and buy a longarm kit. I thing you'd do well by right-seating in a few Xjs that run different lifts and la vs sa.

Think on this though... You jump up that much you are opening a whole can of worms of other stuff you'll need to get with that lift kit. Another grand at least and that's if you install it all yourself.

I'd cut it, and wheel it until those tires are toast. Then think about where you want to go. You'll learn tons.
 
I'm probably in a minority, but I don't understand why you would go to the extent of adding an additional 2" to 3" of lift just to run 31" tires when all you need is a set of stock rims. If you've spent any time at all on these (or any other Jeep) forums you must know that the cost of lifts in exponential. Every additional inch costs a LOT more than the inch before.

If you were certain that 33" or larger tires were in your future, by all means go higher. But you've said you don't wish to cut the sheet metal, which to me says you're not going to bigger tires. Going higher won't cure your problem without other mods, such as extending the bump stops to eliminate (substantially reduce) suspension compression. Plus you'll be looking at a SYE for vibrations, your drive shaft will be too short even if you don't go with a SYE, you'll need longer shocks, longer brake lines, ...

It's your Jeep and your call, but I'd be hitting the classifieds for a set of used stock rims if I were in your situation.
 
Eagle said:
I'm probably in a minority, but I don't understand why you would go to the extent of adding an additional 2" to 3" of lift just to run 31" tires when all you need is a set of stock rims. If you've spent any time at all on these (or any other Jeep) forums you must know that the cost of lifts in exponential. Every additional inch costs a LOT more than the inch before.

If you were certain that 33" or larger tires were in your future, by all means go higher. But you've said you don't wish to cut the sheet metal, which to me says you're not going to bigger tires. Going higher won't cure your problem without other mods, such as extending the bump stops to eliminate (substantially reduce) suspension compression. Plus you'll be looking at a SYE for vibrations, your drive shaft will be too short even if you don't go with a SYE, you'll need longer shocks, longer brake lines, ...

It's your Jeep and your call, but I'd be hitting the classifieds for a set of used stock rims if I were in your situation.

I have to agree. You said you had a Jeep to wheel, and that you want to tow this one and use it to haul the grandkids and dogs. Ever try getting kids, or better yet dogs, into an XJ with a 6" longarm lift!!!!! Not to mention pulling a rig with 6" of lift and 33s is unpractical, why not keep it low, an XJ with 3" and 31s will do very well off-road.
 
you can run 32s on a RE 3.5" lift with a tiny or none at all amount of rubbing. Running 31s equals no rubbing even on deep stuff. I know as both daughters are running that on their XJs. The key here is STOCK rims. Just try and find stock backspacing in an after market rim. I couldn't.
 
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