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Quick question regarding OTK steering and a PSA regarding Rough Country

B

boncrshr

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Texas
PSA first: DO NOT BUY THIS ROUGH COUNTRY STEERING KIT!
Reason: The tie rod ends failed very quickly and Quadratec (they have been great throughout this ordeal) has been trying since early November to get the tie rod ends warrantied, with no response from Rough Country. This has led to an interesting set of problems that I can expand upon if anyone is interested.
https://www.quadratec.com/p/rough-country/hd-steering-upgrade-wrangler-tj-xj-zj

Question: If I flip the tie rod, will I definitely have to cut the sway bar mounts, or can I get away with some creative grinding? I do have one offset tie rod end on the driver side.

Also, if I have to cut them off, will I be able to drive on freeway without a sway bar until I can get the relocation brackets welded in?
 
Flipping the tierod will definitely require relocation/replacement of the factory axle swaybar brackets. It may also cause interference with a stock or aftermarket diff cover, unless you turn 2 offset TRE's like the Teraflex units. Wheel bead/TRE interference can also be an issue with smaller than 17" wheels, depending on wheel offset.

Can you drive the freeway without a connected swaybar? Sure. Tire size, wheel offset/track width, lift height, driving style are all variables in this equation.

Just know that your Jeep will handle more "sloppy" at speed and abrupt lane changes or carrying too much speed on circular exit/entrance ramps will result in significant body roll. Excessive body roll can result in your XJ assuming a roadkill position. :roll:
 
XJEEPER said:
Flipping the tierod will definitely require relocation/replacement of the factory axle swaybar brackets. It may also cause interference with a stock or aftermarket diff cover, unless you turn 2 offset TRE's like the Teraflex units. Wheel bead/TRE interference can also be an issue with smaller than 17" wheels, depending on wheel offset.

Can you drive the freeway without a connected swaybar? Sure. Tire size, wheel offset/track width, lift height, driving style are all variables in this equation.

Just know that your Jeep will handle more "sloppy" at speed and abrupt lane changes or carrying too much speed on circular exit/entrance ramps will result in significant body roll. Excessive body roll can result in your XJ assuming a roadkill position. :roll:
Click to expand...

Thank you. I really need to get a welder of some sort and this would no be an issue.
 
I have driven with one side of the front swaybar not attached. I did drive 35 miles on twisty roads, two ways. I really didn't notice it. This was with a 4.5 lift. Also, had the rear not attached for a while. The front was though. Again, not real notice. I wouldn't recommend the front not being attached long term though.
I did use Ironman lengthened swaybar brackets on a a WJ Big Brakes/ cross over steering conversion. I like them, and will be using them on another build. Also, might check out RuffStuff for TRE. They have a similar setup as what you have. I used them for my first 1-ton GM cross over. Should have used them the next time.
 
75SV1 said:
I have driven with one side of the front swaybar not attached. I did drive 35 miles on twisty roads, two ways. I really didn't notice it. This was with a 4.5 lift. Also, had the rear not attached for a while. The front was though. Again, not real notice. I wouldn't recommend the front not being attached long term though.
I did use Ironman lengthened swaybar brackets on a a WJ Big Brakes/ cross over steering conversion. I like them, and will be using them on another build. Also, might check out RuffStuff for TRE. They have a similar setup as what you have. I used them for my first 1-ton GM cross over. Should have used them the next time.
Click to expand...

I have the brackets ordered, I'll just have to find someone to weld them. Here's the big thing I have against the Rough Country kit. When it was clear that they were not going to respond to Quadratech, I started looking for substitute parts and then learned that there is a big taper and small taper on "GM 1 ton" tie rod ends.

The tie rods from the pitman arm to Y-link have the larger taper and the drag link ends are the smaller taper. Rough Country apparently had someone manufacture their tie rod ends and they were all the larger taper and I had reamed out my steering knuckles to the larger taper, and that made it impossible to find parts (specifically the y-link), but I ran across the tapered inserts and will try those out. Otherwise, I'd have to start over with new steering knuckles.

I didn't know any of the above prior to the tie rods going bad and wish I had done a little more research before buying a steering kit.
 
On my setups, I used 1-ton Chevy TREs. All mine had the larger taper and same threads. I did use inserts on one of my setups, and 'repaired' one on my first setup. I did use some '3/4 -ton' TREs on a setup of the IRO OTK setup. A bit of a mismash and will probably go back to stock setup to sell off that XJ. I did have the 1-ton tapers reamed for my setups and the 3/4-ton. MOOG ES150 TREs. Sort of Ford 58-64 and GM 64-72 ???.
I don't have any experience with your type of setup. Only the WJ BB with cross over steering. I think its Terra Flex that makes a knuckle for cross over steering with stock TRE's and brakes. I think about $500-$600.
 
boncrshr said:
Did the inserts work OK?
Click to expand...

Yes. The first one was insitu. I didn't want to take off the knuckle. I did OK. The 2nd time I did a set of WJ knuckles. I did them on my mill, as a drill press. I drilled out with several smaller drill bits then to size. I also drill a chamfer/counter sink, so the 'flange' on the inserts would sit flush. I also epoxied them in place. I also figure I could switch them to true OTK setup. I did a third set of WJ knuckles reamed for OTK, adjustable stops and integrated the 1/4 spacers for the caliper bracket.
If you need any pictures, PM me your email. Also, I did get Ruff Stuff's Dana 30 front cover with the welded on bracket for the steering stabilizer. Works good.
 
boncrshr said:
I have the brackets ordered, I'll just have to find someone to weld them. Here's the big thing I have against the Rough Country kit. When it was clear that they were not going to respond to Quadratech, I started looking for substitute parts and then learned that there is a big taper and small taper on "GM 1 ton" tie rod ends.

The tie rods from the pitman arm to Y-link have the larger taper and the drag link ends are the smaller taper. Rough Country apparently had someone manufacture their tie rod ends and they were all the larger taper and I had reamed out my steering knuckles to the larger taper, and that made it impossible to find parts (specifically the y-link), but I ran across the tapered inserts and will try those out. Otherwise, I'd have to start over with new steering knuckles.

I didn't know any of the above prior to the tie rods going bad and wish I had done a little more research before buying a steering kit.
Click to expand...

I installed WJ knuckles/brakes with OTK steering about 12yrs ago and this was one of my favorite mods. I opted for weld-in tapered inserts, where you drill the knuckles out, hammer in the tapered insert and then weld them to the knuckle.

You can also see how I positioned the swaybar link axle brackets, which are welded to the inner C gussets.

Front%20end%20refresh%20complete_zpsx9cet7ev.jpg


My build thread has more details ------->https://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=913774
 
Appropriate shocks will go along ways in preventing body roll but you wont find them over the counter.

I run no sway bars front or rear. Even dodged a lizzard on the freeway it came of a truck passing me i nearly took it in the windshield.

Shocks are tuned by accutune for my rigs actual weight, tire size, suspension design and keeping in mind i dont run sway bars

Best over the counter shocks ive ran were kyb monomax meant for the front of my 02 cummins pickup. Ran them for awhile.

Sent from my SM-G781U using Tapatalk
 
Xjeeper.
I like how you have the sawbar on the c gusset.

I to have found wj steering to be a very worthwhile investment. Been using the inserts but finally bought the reamer.

This jeep steers freaking amazing. Can bash badger holes at 50 while eating a sandwich maintaing control.

8887f2e9659dc74cf2f25d05f803873c.jpg


Sent from my SM-G781U using Tapatalk
 
XJeeper,
Who's trackbar brace is that? Or did you fab it? Does it attach to the Driver's side frame? or the Trackbar bracket? Nice setup. And people do the WJ Big Brakes for the 'Bigger Brakes'. Yet they rave about the crossover steering upgrade. I like mine. Hands off at 55mph or higher and tracks straight.
 
Wj brakes arent really anything to mention they slow the thing down that's about it.

The steering is awesome angles are much improvement

Steers quicker more responsive doesnt wonder far less flex steer.

The steering realy helps a good suspension work even better.

I worked my way up to this steering.
1ton over the knuckle was an improvement but did have a dead spot. The cure did help this alot.

Wj knuckles were a game changer to raise drag link aswell as seperate ot from the tie rod roll.

This is the brace i run. Works greatly
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3245088672...SNVguSyRrq&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
3c893cfeb0ea660e3122ccf4c55c3723.jpg


Sent from my SM-G781U using Tapatalk
 
75SV1 said:
XJeeper,
Who's trackbar brace is that? Or did you fab it? Does it attach to the Driver's side frame? or the Trackbar bracket? Nice setup. And people do the WJ Big Brakes for the 'Bigger Brakes'. Yet they rave about the crossover steering upgrade. I like mine. Hands off at 55mph or higher and tracks straight.
Click to expand...

The trackbar brace is my own design/build and connects the passenger frame to the trackbar frame bracket.

The benefits of the WJ brake/knuckle swap is both improved braking and a much improved steering experience, as it eliminates the stock Inverted Y steering geometry, which is prone to bump steer on lifted rigs. :thumbup:
 
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