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Grinding noise well accelerating in 4wd

T

Tonyt22

NAXJA Forum User
Location
California
So I just finished my new lift and now when I'm in 4hi/4lo I'm getting a weird grinding noise and steering gets stiff I checked all the u joints no play I checked the diff and topped it off and switched out the hubs and it's still there but it only does it while I'm pushing the gas while coasting it's quite I can only describe the sound as worn brake pads grinding dont want to start throwing parts at it but I might just swap all the u joints see if it helps
 
Are you using 4x4 on dry pavement ? Anything more than random guesses as to the cause will require complete info about the lift parts installed. Describe fully, completely, and in detail, all the lift parts. Additionally, have you installed any: Longer brake lines ? T-case drop ? Axle shims ? SYE ?
 
Last edited:
just guessing here......

If the steering is getting stiff, then you likely have 4wd engaged when it shouldn't.

Remove the front driveshaft and see if it still does it
 
Have you readjusted the front and rear driveshaft pinion angles?
They change when lifted and are adjusted using angle shims, for the rear springs, and in the front, changing the length of the control arms or using the caster adjustment .
 
Tim_MN said:
Are you using 4x4 on dry pavement ? Anything more than random guesses as to the cause will require complete info about the lift parts installed. Describe fully, completely, and in detail, all the lift parts. Additionally, have you installed any: Longer brake lines ? T-case drop ? Axle shims ? SYE ?
Click to expand...

I've tried it on pavement and dirt no change I always come to a complete stop shift into neutral then into 4wd then proceed

I went from 3 inch spacers front to iro 4 inch long arm rock link kit adjustable uppers and lower arms brake line relocation new coils and shocks new trac bar new trac bar mount jks sway bar disconnects 1 inch t case drop rear brake line relocation boomerang leaf shackles new hubs

Also have a lunchbox locker but that has been installed for months

Also had a shop do the alignment
 
TRCM said:
just guessing here......

If the steering is getting stiff, then you likely have 4wd engaged when it shouldn't.

Remove the front driveshaft and see if it still does it
Click to expand...

I'll try that this weekend but what do you mean about having it engaged when it shouldn't
 
lazyxj said:
Have you readjusted the front and rear driveshaft pinion angles?
They change when lifted and are adjusted using angle shims, for the rear springs, and in the front, changing the length of the control arms or using the caster adjustment .
Click to expand...

Off hand would you have the correct angles.for a 4 inch lift so I can compare
 
Tonyt22 said:
I'll try that this weekend but what do you mean about having it engaged when it shouldn't
Click to expand...

Just what I said...have it in 4wd (engaged) when it shouldn't be....


Now, the locker up front, how long it has been installed doesn't matter.......what matters is if it is being driven from the driveshaft/tcase or the ground/wheels.

If the tcase is engaging and you are in 4wd, it will be driven from the driveshaft, and will stay locked up, and will make the steering harder when turning.

Did you mess with the tcase linkage at all?
 
Where does the noise originate, front/middle/rear ?


At 4 inches of lift you need an SYE. The t-case drop eases the rear driveline angles but increases the front driveline angles. Install a fresh chain and shift fork tabs at the same time as the SYE.

The grinding is probably a mis-adjustment of the t-case shifter mechanism, t-case shifter mechanism binding due to the t-case drop, u-joint yoke ears making contact, or other drive line issues.

The stiff steering is likely the t-case binding due to one these or a combination of these: excessive drive line angles, misadjusted t-case shifter mechanism, stiff u-joints, the locker.
 
Last edited:
I installed an IRO long arm kit long ago. The older IRO crossmember was designed for the earlier xj with the offset transmission mount. If installed on a late model you should also install the offset trans mount to put you trans in the correct position and adjust your transfercase linkage.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Dj-LjsLM80
 
Tim_MN said:
Where does the noise originate, front/middle/rear ?


At 4 inches of lift you need an SYE. The t-case drop eases the rear driveline angles but increases the front driveline angles. Install a fresh chain and shift fork tabs at the same time as the SYE.

The grinding is probably a mis-adjustment of the t-case shifter mechanism, t-case shifter mechanism binding due to the t-case drop, u-joint yoke ears making contact, or other drive line issues.

The stiff steering is likely the t-case binding due to one these or a combination of these: excessive drive line angles, misadjusted t-case shifter mechanism, stiff u-joints, the locker.
Click to expand...

Sound is coming from front right

Sye is next when I get the funds

I havent.messed with the shifter yet I'll take a look if its binding
 
So shop said it's the tcase front bearing all u joints cleared and driveline shafts have good angles just think it's weird that it started after the lift was installed so now gotta pull the t case how hard would it be to service/rebuild it myself thinking I might add the sye while I'm at it. I'm assuming i have to replace the rear driveshaft at the same time or would I be able to reuse my old shaft
 
So I got a front driveshaft to replace to rear looking for a sye and trying to figure out what rebuild kit to get do all XJ have to 1 inch chain ? Mine is a 93 auto
 
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