Chasing misfire and running out of variables.

For water, I used distilled and a spray bottle into the intake tube removed from the air box. Warmed up engine with a drive beforehand. Thumbed the throttle to maybe 2500rpm, sprayed fairly aggressively, maybe 3 full pumps a second. Very little hesitation from the engine. Took about 45 seconds to pump 16oz or so.



For driving, mine is a 5spd and I am not easy on it. There is rarely a drive when I don't exceed 3500rpm. The engine gets fairly anemic over 4k, so that's typically my highest shift point.


I'm going to put some mileage on it in the next few weeks and I will update any changes.

Time for an update. The misfire has subsided! Unfortunately I cant pinpoint what steps resolved it, but I will mention a few other things I did for anyone who may look at this thread as a checklist.


I added a can of BG44k to the fuel tank, a can of engine restore to the oil (awaiting more mileage to redo a compression test), and one other thing that was a bit unorthodox..
When I had the cylinder stuffed and the valve springs off for cyl 1, I was thinking about the carbon that may have been deposited on the valve seat or valve mating face. I wanted to try to break this off, so I decided to spin the valve by the stem, and pull upward on it.

I did this by wrapping the valve stem in a few layers of masking tape, then I took my power drill and carefully attached the valve to the chuck.. I then pulled the trigger about 50% and firmly pulled upward on the drill, forcing the valve seat and valve spring to mate and hopefully rub off any carbon build up. I do not know if this was what did the trick, but the compression in that cylinder has gone up from ~150 to 160. Basically a crude in-situ valve lapping. I wouldnt recommend this except for a last ditch effort. I have an extra motor and this one has 250,000 on it as it is. Anything was worth a try.