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Another... got to to replace rusted floors on xj

country2

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Homer Georgia
Hi, I have a 2000 Jeep Cherokee about 135k miles and I know for sure the drivers side floor is rusted out pretty bad have not removed carpet yet to see if any other places are bad but looking underneath and poking with a screw driver its just drivers side.



Now I have done lots of reading and still wondering on installing the panel if I want to/need to weld (don't have a welder but guess I can buy one and yes I can weld but has been a while) or just do the 3m panel adhesive and rivets. I read that using steel rivets about 1" apart is just as strong as welding and so is the 3m panel adhesive. What would you go with? Thanks!
 
I would only consider that if you have clean good metal to attach to. Personally I prefer to weld it in tho. really you need to pull the carpet and see what you're up against.
 
The 3M panel adhesive is faster and easier than welding, and it provides a greater contact area/joint between the panels. I was very pleased with the results when I replaced the floor pan. Front floor pans are not a critical structural member of the unibody, and most of the rust outs occur from the inside due to moisture retained in the carpet and padding.
 
The 3M panel adhesive is faster and easier than welding, and it provides a greater contact area/joint between the panels. I was very pleased with the results when I replaced the floor pan. Front floor pans are not a critical structural member of the unibody, and most of the rust outs occur from the inside due to moisture retained in the carpet and padding.


Hey Tim, did you also use rivets?
 
I used a 6-8 self-drilling sheet metal screws. The patch panel floor pan was spread open a bit at the edges for good contact with the remaining original floor pan, and wanted to pop up.
 
I saw one thread a guy used fiberglass and por15 then just saturated it an rolled/pressed the material. Looked real clean, wished I could have found it before I had to deal with the same issue.
I used bolts and sealed the pan in with silicone.

If you use rivets just make sure they compress to the thickness of material you using.
 
I saw a post other day on another forum some did it to their floor using the fiberglass kit they sell. Looked good but I would be concerned about it cracking since its a uni-body and will flex. Guess a small area would be OK but I know the whole drivers pan is bad pretty much.
 
Got another question. I'm guessing most people are drilling out the factory spot weld what is everyone doing to filling in the holes in the frame (Channel)left by drilling them out? Just filling it in with seam sealer? filling it back with weld if welded? Thanks
 
Oh, guess I need to change my comments on 3m panel adhesive... I meant 3M Structural Adhesive.



Still trying to decide if I want to buy welder and weld it or just go the adhesive way. Especially now since looks like I will be getting lots of overtime/weekend work pretty much till November so I might have to rush it some.
 
Get a spotweld bit so you don't drill thru the unibody and for welding, I think it's er70s-6. Let's you weld without near as much burn thru and grinds like butter for cleaning up. Did my Comanche floors 5 years ago and once I switched wire I could actually weld with my 110v instead of tack tack tack tack

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