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  #31  
Old April 26th, 2020, 17:10
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Nates2000XJ Nates2000XJ is offline
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The Black Pearl

Progress on axles have been slow. I got ball joints, front and rear rotors, front wheel bearings and seals, diff cover, 9Ē truss, u bolt eliminators, drain/fill bungs, some inner c gussets, and rear caliper brackets...all of which are in the mail.

In the mean time, a package arrived from ruffstuff full of tire carrier swing out parts so Iíve been working on that for the past three days or so.

I picked up 13í of 3/16Ē wall 2x3 rectangle tube from a local-ish metal supply. Iíve been wanting to hit sims in San Jose but theyíre closed to the public with the covid-19 scare.

My bumper doesnít leave much room to support a spindle so I added some plate and will need some bracing behind the bumper. Hereís what I did.

















After welding on the latch, with gussets, I decided I didnít like its location. It hangs out and is liable to get smashed on the trail leaving my bumper vulnerable. Called it a day at that point in preparation for the battle of getting that off.



Couldnít get int there with a cut off wheel so the plasma cutter was the only option. It got ugly and will require further grinding. I cut the lower rectangle tube and mounted the latch right below the driver tail light.




Hereís how it turned out. Still need to add something to mount a wheel. I went with an angled mount where the wheel will be roughly parallel to the rear glass. This way the tire doesnít hang as low and I get some visibility out of the rear view mirror.




Last edited by Nates2000XJ; April 26th, 2020 at 17:30.
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  #32  
Old April 27th, 2020, 08:24
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GordoSmasho GordoSmasho is offline
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The Black Pearl

Looks good man. Im going to be redoin my hinge and latch on my carrier with my new chassis. Good to see some ideas on a diy application.
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  #33  
Old April 27th, 2020, 12:10
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Nates2000XJ Nates2000XJ is offline
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The Black Pearl

Thanks, if you plan on offsetting the tire Iíd recommend placing the spindle on the side of the tire do the weight of the tire isnít putting such a large torque on the spindle (perpendicular the the axis about which the spindle rotates).

Worked a half day today so I attempted to remove an old spindle bearing. Ended up getting a dremel out and carefully cut through the race. My punches broke the edges of the race clean off. Thereís got to be an easier way than this surely.






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  #34  
Old April 28th, 2020, 08:14
DocTremp DocTremp is offline
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The Black Pearl

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nates2000XJ View Post
Thanks, if you plan on offsetting the tire Iíd recommend placing the spindle on the side of the tire do the weight of the tire isnít putting such a large torque on the spindle (perpendicular the the axis about which the spindle rotates).

Worked a half day today so I attempted to remove an old spindle bearing. Ended up getting a dremel out and carefully cut through the race. My punches broke the edges of the race clean off. Thereís got to be an easier way than this surely.






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That doesnít look like too much fun. Iím about to do the same and Iím not looking forward to it either.


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  #35  
Old April 30th, 2020, 22:21
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Nates2000XJ Nates2000XJ is offline
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The Black Pearl

Got lots of parts in the mail today. I got around to packing the wheel bearings + races and installing the seals. These will sit for a little while so I taped them shut to prevent to protect the bearings/grease.





Front diff cover came as well so I clear coated that. The rear rotors I ordered donít fit over the 31 spl axles for the 9Ē so when 35 spl axles show up, Iíll recheck and machine if need be🤞

Rear calipers are new units from Ď73-Ď89 3/4 ton 4x4 Chevy truck/suburban. My 74 Chevy K20 has the same ones and they fit the ruffstuff weld on brackets ever so snugly. Once I get 35 spl axles and new bearings, Iíll be much more comfortable welding the brake brackets on. Rotors are fronts off an Ď89 full size bronco.

9Ē truss came as well, itís got a decent gap right at the center section that Iím not loving. Iíll be putting u bolt eliminators on first and trimming the truss to fit (basically right before the rear gets swapped under the Jeep).


Going to pull the trigger on the front truss soon as well. Iím looking at TNT and New Venture Motorsports. I have experience with the TNT product but I think the new venture has a few more features... Machined coil correction plates and double shear shock mounting that also give the bottom eye of the shock some protection.

New venture


TNT (w/ 87matchief)


The NV truss comes in a tad loess expensive than the TNT as well.


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  #36  
Old May 1st, 2020, 14:59
anxjous anxjous is offline
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Re: The Black Pearl

What're you doing for knuckles/steering? The trac bar mount looks pretty low on that NV truss, not sure what it looks like on the tnt truss. Just make sure whatever you go with on steering matches where you can put your trac bar. Id say one of the advantages of going d44 is that you can get your drag link pretty flat with some of the histeer setups, youll want to get your trac bar to match that to help with bumpsteer.
If youre gonna do hydro assit one day you could even think about planning a good mounting place for a ram. Also, what front link setup are you gonna run?
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  #37  
Old May 2nd, 2020, 22:54
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Nates2000XJ Nates2000XJ is offline
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The Black Pearl

Iím looking into reids with histeer arms. This weekend Iím helping 87matcheif fit Reids and hi steer arms with a tre set up on his waggy 44. I do have a tapped and drilled XJ steering box for hydro assist so mounting a ram is something Iím thinking about as well. Either truss can be fitted with an adjustable track bar bracket to compensate for steering geometry so if I stick with heims, I think packaging steering should be a bit easier than tres.

Good feedback anxjous, steering geometry was something I kind of hadnít mapped out after being so accustomed to the D30 set up. For the swap Iím going to keep my Clayton radius arm set up and will decide if 3 linking front is worth it.


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  #38  
Old May 4th, 2020, 16:21
anxjous anxjous is offline
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Re: The Black Pearl

Having gone through this on a few d44 jeeps recently Id highly recommend making sure youve got everything planned out before buying/fabing/welding a bunch of stuff.

Another note that I just thought of, I was a blindsided by the fact that the d44 pinion is ~2inches longer than the d30. For the front I wish I had pushed the axle those 2 inches forward so I could reuse the front driveshaft (and get better approach angle/more wheelbase). New driveshafts are expensive... For the rear, youll have to measure, but if you can use a stock front shaft thats ideal.
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  #39  
Old May 5th, 2020, 00:25
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Nates2000XJ Nates2000XJ is offline
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Re: The Black Pearl

I hear ya on pinion length. I'm planning upgrading to 1350 driveshafts with this swap which means the shafts I had made when the jeep got lifted will need serious work. It pains me to redo something that spendy but I think bigger u-joints seems like par for the course when stepping up to a larger axle and tire size.

From what I've been reading once the drag link gets located the track bar follows. Having a hi-steer set up should also help get me a track bar and drag link of equal length and angle at ride height (or at least as close as possible). Good points on the stretch though, I'll do some more reading.
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  #40  
Old May 6th, 2020, 22:14
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Re: The Black Pearl

Keep up the good work... gonna be nice!
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  #41  
Old May 7th, 2020, 09:04
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Re: The Black Pearl

looking good. So what made you decide to build a 44/9 ?
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  #42  
Old May 8th, 2020, 10:32
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Nates2000XJ Nates2000XJ is offline
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The Black Pearl

Thanks twinhauler and blondejon. Thereís a handful of reasons that pushed me off the fence and buy a the 44/9. Just because other people run them isnít a good enough answer in my opinion lol. Iím planning on building these axles for 37 or 38Ē tire as well.


Thereís a step up in strength from a 30 to a 44 ring gear/pinion. Having broken a r/p on the Dana 30, luckily not a catastrophic failure, Iíd like to increase the strength of the front diff. I do know there are ways to get a JK44 r/p into the older ford housings and that will be something I look into since the gears are a bit thicker and offer more tooth contact iirc.

Second reason was even though I havenít had any big issues with the 8.25, the 9Ē has the pinion support bearing at the end of pinion that helps mitigate ring gear deflection. I can also run a larger tire with the 9Ē and keep pretty good ground clearance. If one upgrades the locker and shafts on a 9Ē, the jump from 28 or 31 spline can be quite easily be upgraded to 35 since the same amount of work needs to be done.


The 9Ē has an exclusively steel housing so trusses and braces can span entire width of the housing without having to welding to dissimilar metals. Old 9Ē housings are often known to not be 100% straight though so that sucks.

Although the older Ford/Chevy/Jeep 44 uses the 5-760x U joint, the older axles come with manual locking hubs. Unlocking a hub or just disassembling a hub is more attractive than untorqing the Dana 30 axle nut, removing the axle and reinstalling the stub to continue driving. This obviously can depend on the nature of the breakage but in general terms I like that aspect of the manual locking hubs.

I like that on a full width front axle, thereís more real estate for bracketry and mounting locations for stuff like hydro assist. The ability to flatten and get better steering geometry on a full width axle is also a plus (due to the increase in locations for mounting)

This matching lug pattern set of axles also came up for sale and for what I though was a half way reasonable price.

Iím not stoked on the weight increase from stock to the 44/9. I also realize that wider isnít always better... to a degree. In the long term I plan on hanging onto the 30/8.25 if I end up with another XJ or even a YJ. It would be neat to have a built set of axles that take little to no work to get under another Jeep. I think another suitable swap is jk44s but in my experience, they can be just as elusive as the hp Ford 44. But thereís always the aftermarket housing industry so I suppose there no limit to what you can swap.


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  #43  
Old May 8th, 2020, 13:01
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Goose_XJ88 Goose_XJ88 is offline
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Re: The Black Pearl

Well let me know if you ever plan to sell the 30. It is built to the level that I have been looking for.

Right now my issue is most that I find are geared to 4.88 where the rear I have is 4.56.
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99 XJ Limited, AW4, 242, Colombia Edition WJ Seats, Stock. Future 4.5" lift, TnT LA, 33s armor, 231 SYE, D30/44 4.56, rear locker, etc
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  #44  
Old May 9th, 2020, 18:51
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EricsXJ EricsXJ is offline
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Re: The Black Pearl

I like what you've been doing. Interested in seeing how the rear tire carrier works out....
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nates2000XJ View Post
Iím not stoked on the weight increase from stock to the 44/9. I also realize that wider isnít always better... to a degree.
All your reasoning for going with the 44/9 are good. As far as your statements quoted above, the increased weight is unsprung weight and I see that as very beneficial, in tandem with increased width, for improved stability in off-camber situations. I think roughly JK width (65" ish wms front) is a really good width for an XJ with bigger tires.
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  #45  
Old May 10th, 2020, 21:42
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Nates2000XJ Nates2000XJ is offline
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The Black Pearl

I recall measuring the 9Ē before tearing it down but I never wrote the measurement down. However, I donít expect that to drastically change after converting to disc.

This last week some 9Ē parts showed up. Yukon nodular iron 3rd member, alum Daytona bearing support, billet 1350 u bolt yoke, 35 spline ARB, and a lube locker. Also got a pretty slick skid plate that protects much more than the ruffstuff pinion guard I was originally looking at running. Wasnít much more expensive either.

Gears should be here this week and then Iíll probably take it to get set up fairly soon. I picked 5.13 on which should keep me where Iím at on 33s once I get 37s. Next thing Iíll order are shafts. For ease, Iíve been looking at Nitros. Talked with them on the phone and got some conflicting info regarding warranty so Iíll have to get back on the horn with them. Photos of the bling soon.

In prep for Reno, I got the front ARB in the 30 plumbed and wired up. The diagram in the manual makes it so you have to have one locker on before the other can be turned on so I wired the switches to be independent of each other. If anyoneís curious, I can post up my diagram.

I also made a sheet metal bracket to hold 2 rocker switches on the trans shift bezel. When I installed the switch for the rear locker years ago I didnít leave much room for another switch. Pretty happy with how it came out. This was one of those all day projects where I took my time and had music bumpin 😎. Fantastic weather in the South Bay.












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