• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Ok...Can someone give me a definitive answer?

E

Eddy_AL

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Alabama
Or atleast one that makes sense?

I replaced the head gasket on my 97 last weekend. It is still idling rough. all tune up parts replaced.

I pulled each of the injector plugs and pulling number didn't cause any change in idle.

I replaced it with a known good injector and no change.

While number one was out, I noticed some antifeeze sitting in the hole in the intake where the number one injector plugs in.

I let the engine run and just watched the exhaust pipe. Upon reaching operating temperature, I'm getting steam from the exhaust pipe.

I checked the oil filler cap and dipstick, the oil is nice and clean - clear, not milky at all. No milky residue on the cap or dipstick.

So am I looking at a cracked cylinder head? Could it be a cracked block if there is no antifreeze in the oil?

Please help. I'm tired of chasing down rabbit holes. Ready to get this thing fixed!
 
Personally I would have pulled the head and had it checked while it was all apart to avoid that as a possibility.

Once off idle, does it smooth out? Idle air control may be at fault if it does.

Steam from the exhaust could be condensation from the muffler. Also, it can take a while to work out all the moisture in the oil. Run it with the oil cap off to let all the moisture steam out.
 
I'm new to this.... I've only done work on engine peripherals. This is my first time digging into a motor.

Yep.... Should have had the head gone through. I did it over a weekend and took my chances. Now I'm paying the price.

I changed the oil twice since the oil change after the gasket install - in the hopes of getting out more moisture.

I cleaned the IAC while doing the gasket. It also has a new TPC.

I just cranked it up and watched it for a while the steam in the exhaust cleared up after a 10 minutes of running at operating temperature. I'm just going to watch the antifreeze level for a few days.

Any idea how much a compression test and leak down test should cost?
 
Has the engine ever been overheated? Seeing that antifreeze is not a particularly good sign.

Tests that can help you isolate this include:

*Compression test
*Block test (sniffing the coolant for the presence of hydrocarbons/ie; evidence of combustion materials)
*Cylinder leakdown test

As you mentioned, watching your coolant reservoir like a hawk is important as coolant use is a big clue here.

Good luck and let us know what you find!
 
I did the turnkey method of getting computer codes and it returned nothing....
 
Eddy_AL said:
I pulled each of the injector plugs and pulling number didn't cause any change in idle.
Click to expand...

Pulling number which? One? The only code you're likely to have is a misfire code for the problem cylinder. Pretty sure there is no key cycle code retrieval trick on a 97, but could be wrong.

A leakdown test will show a cracked head issue- compression test probably won't. Map sensor has nothing to do with a single cylinder misfire.

Course of action- make sure plugs and wires are in good shape, installed correctly and not fouled from coolant prior to the repair. Normal diagnostics for single cylinder misfire if still present. Coolant can take a long time to burn out of an exhaust system, if you're still getting indicators of an internal coolant leak, maybe verified with a leak down tester putting air bubbles in the radiator- or hydrocarbons in the coolant measured by a gas analyzer- or a head gasket test kit failure, THEN pull the head.
 
Eddy_AL said:
I did the turnkey method of getting computer codes and it returned nothing....
Click to expand...

It is my understanding that the "key-on, key-off" method of retrieving stored codes worked for some of the (early) 97 models, but doesn't work on anything newer than that. You'll most likely need a code reader to get your codes.
 
What about the #1 spark plug? How do you know that is good? If your compression is bad enough to stop that cylinder from firing, a simple compression test should show it. Why did you do the head gasket in the first place?
 
New spark plugs.

Couldn't hold coolant. Was coming out through the exhaust pipe. It was obvious. It put out clouds of steam.

I'm going to take it somewhere tonight and have a code reader plugged up to it.
 
Ok, number one isn't firing--you swapped injectors and it still isn't firing?

Did you attach a $3 NOID light to see if the connector on the number one injector is delivering a signal?
 
Only code to come up was Cylinder 1 misfire. I just learned about the noid light. I'll be picking up one in the am. Put a long screwdriver to the injector tonight, definitely clicking.

Ran a can of seafoam through the intake at lunch. Used the brake vacuum hose. The misfire didn't completely clear up, but the idle definitely smoothed out. Within 10 minutes it was running just as rough again.

O2 sensor problem? Ofcoure, would there be an O2 code error if there was?
 
Last edited:
No. An O2 problem would affect all cylinders, not just #1. If you don't have fuel, spark and compression, there will be a misfire.

So it's still losing coolant? Running better on seafoam is interesting..

No need to buy a noid light, just hook a test light up across the injector connector.
 
It doesn't seem to be losing coolant. I think the steam I initially saw was moisture clearing out of the exhaust system. After driving in 85+ degree weather today, there was no discernible loss, definitely no steam. Same amount of fluid in the overflow tank after the engine is warmed up. I'll keeping watching it though.
 
Running better on seafoam -
Even after running the Seafoam through, pulling the plug on the number 1 injector didn't change the idle performance.

It seems to me that an exhaust leak would affect all cylinders, but....
Could an exhaust leak cause compression issue on a single cylinder? The stock header has the obligatory crack.
 
No, an exhaust leak will not change compression. Without some special tools the easiest thing to do might be move parts cylinder to cylinder and see if the miss follows. Such as plugs, plug wires and injectors.

Nothing screwed up in the valvetrain like an out of place pushrod? Compression test numbers.. or the redneck relative compression test. Disconnect the cps, crank the engine for a good five seconds or more and listen for an irregularity in cranking speed.
 
Got spark. I pulled the wire from number 1 sparkplug and laid the plug end on the valve cover and cranked. Arced to the valve cover.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

D
Chasing misfire and running out of variables.
2
Replies
21
Views
3K
deloxx
D
M
Oil pressure question
2
Replies
26
Views
3K
Money_Pit_Incoming
M
L
Multiple misfire Issue. P0300, P0301, P0302
Replies
8
Views
2K
HRDROKN
H
S
2000 STFTs stuck at 98% ??
Replies
8
Views
2K
RCP Phx
R
C
91 XJ missing at 2000 +rpm only when at operating temp
Replies
0
Views
1K
cptmiker
C
Back
Top