• NAXJA is having its 18th annual March Membership Drive!!!
    Everyone who joins or renews during March will be entered into a drawing!
    More Information - Join/Renew
  • Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Rock Krawler X Factor Steering UPDATE

boomhauer

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Vancouver Island
Well I put on the kit and here are my happenings, so to speak...

Parts impression;Mega SOLID tie rod, draglink and nice hardware.

The actual installation on the XJ; I'm not thrilled with that draglink under the tie rod on the passenger side. Just not logical to me. Didn't really like the handling either. So I moved the tie rod to the bottom of the knuckles, put the draglink on top of the knuckle with the misaligment washer. I am REALLY happy now!

Summary; For the money, you get the parts you need to build a wicked strong steering system. Just gotta tweak it! lol

Pics at some point. lol -B

Took some pics on the way to Tim Horton's this morning to test the steering.


Rock Krawler Set-up from instructions;


How I did it;


The steering is awesome now and haven't had my alignment yet either!
Sorry for the parking lot photos, the XJ's been in the garage for most of the winter getting worked on. Here's how she looks so far. Just finished patching the floor, still have to put in the Rock Hard cage, and vinyl flooring. The interior is bare save for the driver seat. -B
 
But now you have more exposed tie rod than even the factory set-up and "you have bump steer" because tha angles are off!
 
Last edited:
Nomercy said:
yeah because your tie rod is hella stronger then your front axle:twak: :sure:

BUT, what would you rather have?

1 - an extra inch of tierod clearance, but with the stress of the tierod and the draglink mounted to the top of the knuckle.

or

2. lose that inch of extra clearance, and have the draglink on top of the knuckle with the tierod underneath for stress reduction on that bolt.

That tierod will take a major hit, and i'd rather have the stress passed throughout the bolt. -B
 
Rock Krawler Instructed Set-Up

Untitled-1copy-1.jpg



Your Set-Up
Untitled-2copy.jpg


I am surprised at the improvement in handling from moving the steering geometry away from ideal.
 
boomhauer said:
BUT, what would you rather have?

1 - an extra inch of tierod clearance, but with the stress of the tierod and the draglink mounted to the top of the knuckle.

or

2. lose that inch of extra clearance, and have the draglink on top of the knuckle with the tierod underneath for stress reduction on that bolt.

That tierod will take a major hit, and i'd rather have the stress passed throughout the bolt. -B

id rather not have the bump steet associated with what you did. you may not see it now but wait till you hit a pot hole, or a wash board. that'll suck...
 
Last edited:
Nomercy said:
yeah because your tie rod is hella stronger then your front axle:twak: :sure:
The D30 is not as weak as people make it out to be. I have CJ7 with about 5" of lift and stock drag link and stock " custom bent " tie-rod and a crappy dampener w/o any bump steer. I've been wheeling it locked with 35s for quite sometime w/o any issues.
 
Nomercy said:
id rather not have the bump steet associated with what you did. you may not see it now but wait till you hit a pot hole, or a wash board. that'll suck...

I know it makes no sense to me either. My guess is the angle that is placed from the draglink onto the pitman arm. That TRE on the pitman is jacked to extreme angle, when i moved it draglink up it alleviated that and all the parts have equal amounts of movement now. When i test drove the XJ as you illustrated, the JP wandered, bumpsteer, the steering wheel had way to much play. Also, with the discos hooked up the draglink contacted the disco link itself which totally decreased my turning radius. The steering stops they provide do not even come into play on that side. I hated it. That's when i started looking at changing it up. It doesn't take long to move things around on that setup. When i test drove it as it sits now, i made damn sure i hit rough roads, washboard gravel, traintracks, and i can honestly say it is awesome. I'm very happy with it. -B
 
Last edited:
Russ Pottenger said:

CORRECT! I was so disappointed in Rusty's flares. They didn't fit worth a damn and are worth about $15 each IMO. Trimmed up i love 'em. Rusty doesn't make the flares, a company called, ah sh!t i'll find out and see if you can get them direct.
The problem is they have poor fit and finish. You'll need to work 'em abit to clean 'em up. They still beat bushwackers though! lol
 
boomhauer said:
CORRECT! I was so disappointed in Rusty's flares. They didn't fit worth a damn and are worth about $15 each IMO. Trimmed up i love 'em. Rusty doesn't make the flares, a company called, ah sh!t i'll find out and see if you can get them direct.
The problem is they have poor fit and finish. You'll need to work 'em abit to clean 'em up. They still beat bushwackers though! lol

so are those the flexy flares or standard?
 
Boomhauer,
Sorry were getting a bit off topic with the flares, but I agree with you and going through a similar dilemma on what to do with the latest Rusty's flexy flair design that I have.
If you wouldn't mind, could you shoot me off some pic's also. Looks like you did what I was wanting to do.
Also PM me if you find the source of the manufacture of them, and the trim they use with them.

Thanks in advance,
Russ

[email protected]
 
Back
Top