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Bracing the unibody?

GREEN XJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Guntersville, AL
So far I plated the frame rails from lower ca mount to leaf spring mount w/ 3/16" steel every where but on inside of frame rail, and plan on getting solid piece of 3/16" or 1/4" and putting in the rear where the gas tank is by using the holes where the receiver hitch bolts up(putting in fuel cell) any more ideas or pics. I'm waiting to put on my full-hydro to brace the steering issues. Any info, pics, or replies will help.
 
GREEN XJ said:
So far I plated the frame rails from lower ca mount to leaf spring mount w/ 3/16" steel every where but on inside of frame rail, and plan on getting solid piece of 3/16" or 1/4" and putting in the rear where the gas tank is by using the holes where the receiver hitch bolts up(putting in fuel cell) any more ideas or pics. I'm waiting to put on my full-hydro to brace the steering issues. Any info, pics, or replies will help.

info about bracing the steering?
 
I plan on plating the outside and bottom of frame rail also at the front. I would put a brace on the steering box but I'm putting a Charlyn valve on and don't think I can brace it like that steering box.
 
Forgot to add that I'm going to put external cage on also tied into the frame in about 4 or 5 spots on eack side. I'm just trying to do everything right the first time so I can enjoy it more.
 
GREEN XJ said:
Forgot to add that I'm going to put external cage on also tied into the frame in about 4 or 5 spots on eack side. I'm just trying to do everything right the first time so I can enjoy it more.


youll need more then 4 spots for a full exo cage. I have 4 tie ins just for each slider.

front 2
middle 8
rear 2-4
12-14 ties ins for an exocage.

A 4 point EXo would be less safe then no cage.
 
The 4 or 5 spots I was talking about will be in the middle the rest will probably be on the bumpers. But the more I been looking at I'm thinking 4 in the middle 1 at the back 1 at the front and the 1 on each of the bumpers.
 
I made my own fuel "safe" by cutting out the floor behind the rear seat and welding in a 3/16" box that is sized to the inside of the framerails. This was welded to the framerails so the bottom of the box was flush with the framerails. I then made another box that fit on top of the welded in one so I could get to the stock fuel tank if required. All told it sits about 7" up into the cargo area.

I then made a false floor out of 14 gage that goes from wheel well to well (I made those since I cut them out to the hatch) and welded everything to everything. Part of the reason for this was because the stock tin floor was rotted out. It is very strong, and I think nothing of jacking the rear of the truck up on the safe.

The whole reason behind this was to fit my 14B after I moved it back 8".

Why would you need to "brace" the steering system if you are going full hydro? Part of the reason I went full hydro was to avoid stressing the steering box area. Well, that and to turn the 40" Iroks with my pinky!

Later,
Jay
 
Pic for you. Didn't get around to painting it yet...love that fine rust patina!

ISBYJ-DSC00811.JPG


Jay
 
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