Things you might as well replace when lifting

Finally decided to go ahead and pull the trigger on an OME 2-3" Lift Kit. Unfortunately, the OME lift only comes with the key components; Front/Rear Springs, and Shocks, nothing else (which is kinda a bummer for how much it costs). Additionally, I got a set of bushings for the leafs, new set of U-bolts, and bump stops for the front (old ones fell out). Is there anything else you guys recommend I might as well replace while I'm doing the lift? Will probably end up going with only 30" tires, not looking to get too aggressive.

Should I get new bolts for the rear leaf springs, seems like a cheap thing that might as well replace after 20 years? How about the U-bolt plates? I was thinking of getting these (https://dpgoffroad.com/product/dpg-adjustable-bump-stop-plates-xj/). Are Swaybar QD's worth it? Anything else I might as well do?

Trackbar, brake lines, BPE, swaybar links, maybe control arms, tierod, tre's.... I can keep going.

Depends on how much you want to spend.

Well what things tend to wear out and should be replaced for relatively low cost. However I also don't mind spending money on the stuff that really needs it.

For example, the leaf spring bolts probably don't really wear out but they will cost next to nothing so might as well. Same with the bushings and u-bolts.

I don't think the trackbar is really going to wear out and that will not be cheap to replace. Adjustable track bar would be nice but I don't think it's required for a 2-3" lift, same with control arms and brakelines. Also, brakelines could be done pretty much anytime; I'm thinking more like stuff that requires taking the suspension apart since this will be the first time my Jeep has the springs off of it in 20 years.

I'm thinking more hardware type things like bolts and bushings. Would like to get some input from people before starting the job and realizing "oh it would be nice to replace that" in the middle of the job.

The trackbar is important for good steering geometry's and alignment!

Gotcha.

Personally I'd upgrade the track bar. Yes you're only 2-3" but it's going to help your geometry. There's a good chance the rear shock bolts will snap when you take them off so that where BPE's come in. You can also use the rear sway bar mounts as makeshift BPEs. Would also consider replacing the isolator pads and sway bar bushings. I'd also consider upgrading the tierod to at least the ZJ one. You'll probably need an alignment after the lift and the stock tierod is junk. ZJ is solid and nothing worse than tacoing the tierod on the trail and being SOL.

What ever you reinstall, be sure to use plenty of anti-seize on the threads.

You will thank yourself in the future.

Lifting the rear will change the driveshaft's u-joint angle, requiring adjustments. You will need angle shims to go between the axle and leaf springs.
You may need a transferase drop or an SYE and new rear driveshaft, if the vibes are bad enough.
Research this.

When changing to 30" tires, you may need to space the bump stops down a little or do some minor trimming, Pre-97s have better fender clearance.
To save money, instead of buying the DPG kit, make your own spacers, I cut them from 1/2" thick plastic cutting boards, picked up at Walmart or Target.
The OME leafs are longer than the stock leafs, the shackle may hit the rear of the shackle box, on full compression. Bump stopping can prevent this or a longer, boomerang shackle. Rear bumper bolts may also hit.

The front brake line mounts can be relocated downward a bit, instead of buying longer lines.
The rear brake line's bracket can be extended.
http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoBrakeExtension.htm

The stock track bar will be too short. You can either replace with an aftermarket TB or try redrilling the axle mount.
http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoTrackbar.htm

Lifting the front will change the toe-in, caster and the front axle's pinion angle.
You will need to get it aligned or learn to do it yourself.
http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoAlignment.htm

As suggested, change to a ZJ tie-rod, it is many times stronger than the stock weak hollow tube.

Buy a FSM for your year Jeep, it is the best tool you can own.

After buying my first XJ years ago, I learned the basics from theses two sources. Hours of good reading and ideas here.
Go Jeep
http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com

Ed Stevens' series of Four
https://web.archive.org/web/20050406151415/http://members.aol.com:80/Stvns/XJhelp1.html
https://web.archive.org/web/20050406172055/http://members.aol.com:80/Stvns/XJhelp2.html
https://web.archive.org/web/20050421035322/http://members.aol.com:80/Stvns/XJhelp3.html
https://web.archive.org/web/20050406172507/http://members.aol.com:80/Stvns/XJhelp4.html

The rear main crank seal. Most likely its leaking and when you have the front axle unbolted already you might as well slide it out of the way and tackle that rear main unencumbered.

The rear main crank seal. Most likely its leaking and when you have the front axle unbolted already you might as well slide it out of the way and tackle that rear main unencumbered.

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This

When I put in the OME CS033RB heavy springs I had more like 4.5" unloaded initial lift in the rear on my 2000 and the vibes made it undriveable over 40 mph. So... SYE and a rear driveshaft and 4degree shims under the rear springs were mandatory. Also, even with the OME shocks it was essentially topped out all the time and clunking the rear shocks. I welded the Zone high clearance shock mounts onto the rear axle, increasing down travel and ground clearance significantly... but then definitely needed to do the brake line in the rear.

After it settled down, no regrets on those upgrades... 2 years later and I'm looking at shackles to get another 1.5" in the rear to keep it level when loaded.

Presumably you're doing this to fit bigger tires... even 30's and you need to think about bump stops and or fender trimming.

On the front- I'd do sway bar disconnects before anything else if you actually want to drive offroad. I'd also put a new heavy trackbar and tierod upgrade pretty high on the list for any XJ with any amount of lift going into remotely serious offroading.

Of course replace every rubber bushing you touch, be prepared to sawzall out the rear spring bolts and replace them with lots of anti-seize.

Greenspan said:

I don't think the trackbar is really going to wear out and that will not be cheap to replace. Adjustable track bar would be nice but I don't think it's required for a 2-3" lift...

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When I installed the 2-inch lift I kept the stock track bar, did not recenter the axle. That worked OK until I installed the sway bar disconnects. After disconnecting the sway bar, the frame side joint was working outside it's normal operating range. They wore out fast.

I bought a used RE 1600 and replaced the spherical rod end. After trying to get the frame end tightened down, I took a strong dislike to RE's mounting arrangement. Since I can, I welded material to the factory track bar bracket, to hold the frame end of the track bar in double shear.

I have since replaced the axle end bushing and the spherical rod end. I'm happy with the operation and service life of the current arrangement.