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XJ radiators, a review.

So I guess I haven't updated this in a while.

I was getting a tiny bit of rust in the cooling system coming from the block on my engine, and the mishimoto radiator kept clogging up. I cleared it with a CLR soak and flush a couple of times, and then replaced it with a Spectra that was $40 on amazon.

I run way cooler on the Spectra.

I was feeling pretty good about the Mishimoto until I saw this. I guess the cooling passage on the Mishimoto are smaller than others?

New vs new, the Spectra cools better than the Mishimoto?
 
New the Mishimoto cooled better, but it clogged up several times where the spectra has not. I think they used smaller tubes to fit more of them in and increase surface area.

I had teached out to them about it but never heard back. Still, that's a decent radiator. Install a coolant filter adn don't worry about it. I was having abnormal levels of rust, never figured out why.
 
I've had good Spectra parts, like the gas tanks. I've had shitty Spectra parts, like the fuel pumps that consistently among the worst out there. A single core radiator less likely to be problematic but I just don't trust them.
 
New the Mishimoto cooled better, but it clogged up several times where the spectra has not. I think they used smaller tubes to fit more of them in and increase surface area.

I had teached out to them about it but never heard back. Still, that's a decent radiator. Install a coolant filter adn don't worry about it. I was having abnormal levels of rust, never figured out why.

Thanks. Interesting to contemplate whether to go with a Mishimoto. I suppose a filter on the radiator inlet would take care of the issue. Would be the easiest location to service as well. I guess you didn't want to do that? Maybe the filter idea occurred after the Spectra was installed? I suppose this also begs the question as to how you determined that rust levels produced by your motor were unusually high.
 
I read through most of the thread, but skipped some so I don't know if it was covered here or not. Galvanic corrosion has been a big contributor to cooling system failures and people still fault the radiator or manufacturer. In a nutshell, it's due to dissimilar metals and an electrical current in an electrolytic solution. Even if the engine block is grounded, some current can flow through the coolant to the radiator and find a path back to ground through the core support. A transfer of metal will happen in this process and you'll get radiators with leaks and engines with corroded internals (especially when the coolant gets a little old). This is one reason plastic tank radiators exist. You can mount them to the core and not have any electrical connection to the body, thus eliminating the possibility of metal transfer to/from the radiator. (Note, they also exist because it's cheaper)

I also have been using a Spectra radiator from Amazon for about 2 years and have never seen anything above 210 on my OBD scan tool. The engine has over 340k miles and I do a lot of hill climbing and slow speed maneuvering. Even with the AC on full blast, it stays nice and cool.
 
I am running the Mishimoto and have been happy with it. I did a little experiment over the past 2 weeks. I pulled it and put in a Spectra (Napa) and ran it for a full 2 weeks. It ran warmer. Doesn't like hill climbs in high temps (95+) and AC running. I even moved my B&M Cooler so it was not in front of the radiator. That actually helped quite a bit but the Spectra just didn't work well for my XJ.



One hill that is gradual and then turns into a twisty mountain climb for 5 miles the temp got up to 238 with AC running. Same hill with same ambient temps (92deg) the Mishimoto got to 217 with AC running and once at top cooled back down to 195 much faster. 217 is just a needle width over 210. Nothing that concerns me at all. 238... that is too warm.



My radiator fluid looks brand new with zero sediment when I flush it each year. I do change it yearly as well and flush the system. I am running a <1 yr Mopar Fan Clutch, 195 thermostat and the 19psi cap that comes with the Mishimoto.



Jeep is 1999, 33x10.5, 4.5 inch lift, aftermarket front and rear bumpers, unitbody plated, winch (tucked below radiator so not airflow obstruction), 4.56 gears, trans cooler that does NOT flow through the radiator.





Hope that helps others.
 
Definitely useful info. Where is your transcooler mounted, and you have a fan attached to it?


It is below the front clip behind the bumper. It does get airflow but not as much. No fan yet. I have a temp gauge and 175 is highest I have seen. I monitor it pretty closely and if it becomes and issue I'll be mounting somewhere else and putting a fan on it.



Before I moved it from in front of the radiator I took and blew air through the front and was amazed at how much the B&M Cooler (70268) reduced airflow compared to the side that did not have it. That prompted me to move it and see how the temps are. Right now with the Mishimoto and no frontal obstructions to the radiator it runs perfect temps.
 
I had upgraded to the Ron Davis radiator, Hesco high volume water pump and Tstat housing.

I was running a trail in Colorado at about 8,000', it was 90* out, we were stopped and I had the AC blasting and it finally touched the red zone. I turned AC off and it went back down.

I will be doing the DEI fuel kit and Napier hood vents over the winter.
 
It is below the front clip behind the bumper. It does get airflow but not as much. No fan yet. I have a temp gauge and 175 is highest I have seen. I monitor it pretty closely and if it becomes and issue I'll be mounting somewhere else and putting a fan on it.



Before I moved it from in front of the radiator I took and blew air through the front and was amazed at how much the B&M Cooler (70268) reduced airflow compared to the side that did not have it. That prompted me to move it and see how the temps are. Right now with the Mishimoto and no frontal obstructions to the radiator it runs perfect temps.

Sorry, one other questions - Do you have the transcooler fluid flow installed inline with the radiator cooler/heater, and if so, do you have it before or after the radiator cooler/heater?
 
Read post #226 !!!
 
Maybe we just have to wait.

10 more posts after this one.
 
My only concern with the cheaper radiators is the plastic side tanks and non-welded construction. Sure, you can get lucky with a plastic tanked radiator lasting the life of your rig, but do we really want to bank on luck? I've had at least 4 radiators fail on me (tanks and crimps) and seen a few others had the tanks pop while wheeling. While the rigs I've had that got the AL radiator upgrade didn't have overheating issues, they definitely ran cooler overall (more stable temps). My $100 ebay special 3 row radiators weren't of the highest quality, but I've never had an issue with one, and they gave me piece of mind on the trail that there is one less thing to break. I also never ran my tranny coolers through the radiator.

If you are easy on your rig and don't bounce around too much, you could probably get by with a spectra or whatever the autoparts store has on the shelf, but I will always lean towards the welded units just for peice of mind.

Just my opinion on the matter. Been following this thread since it started and it's definitely taken an interesting turn.

Sent from my moto g power using Tapatalk
 
If you are easy on your rig and don't bounce around too much, you could probably get by with a spectra or whatever the autoparts store has on the shelf, but I will always lean towards the welded units just for peice of mind.

I'll take a plastic Spectra over an aluminum unit...any day.

Even my custom $500 Griffin radiator...I've now had to fix on the buggy.

Meanwhile, the Spectra in my '01 keeps going strong, with it running at or under 210* with AC on full blast and it being nearly 100* out. The nice AL one in there before that? Yep, sprang a leak.

The pain now, is that the Spectra radiators (CU1193 part number), aren't (readily) available. Grabbed one from Advance Auto to put into the wife's '96, so we'll see how it does.
 
I'll take a plastic Spectra over an aluminum unit...any day.



Even my custom $500 Griffin radiator...I've now had to fix on the buggy.



Meanwhile, the Spectra in my '01 keeps going strong, with it running at or under 210* with AC on full blast and it being nearly 100* out. The nice AL one in there before that? Yep, sprang a leak.



The pain now, is that the Spectra radiators (CU1193 part number), aren't (readily) available. Grabbed one from Advance Auto to put into the wife's '96, so we'll see how it does.
If you don't mind me asking - how exactly did your AL radiators fail, and how would've that situation been different if you had a non-welded radiator in there? Our experiences are obviously the opposite of each other (and conventional logic tells me a metal welded radiator should hold up better than a standard plastic tanked replacement) so I'm curious.

Sent from my moto g power using Tapatalk
 
If you don't mind me asking - how exactly did your AL radiators fail, and how would've that situation been different if you had a non-welded radiator in there? Our experiences are obviously the opposite of each other (and conventional logic tells me a metal welded radiator should hold up better than a standard plastic tanked replacement) so I'm curious.

Sent from my moto g power using Tapatalk

I'm not sure of his exact issue, every one Ive seen fail the welded aluminum cracks in the HAZ of the weld from the forces of expanding and contracting with heat.

the plastic tanks seem to survive that better.

250,000 miles later my OEM 21 year old radiator is still keeping the jeep perfectly cool.

a few years back I flushed my system and decided to put a new rad in. ended up with an all aluminum CSF.
I ran that radiator for like a month. it constantly ran hot and nearly boiled over a couple times. I pulled the stock radiator out of the scrap pile, flushed it and put it back in. still going strong.

I do not run the trans fluid through the radiator anymore, although I only recommend that if you live in a mild climate. if your jeep sees cold temperatures regularly you should keep the fluid stabilizer in line.
 
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