Fueling issue with a Renix Stroker

Hoping the folks here can help me again.

Heres the deal:

Friend of mine bought a 4.6 liter from Golen engines to put in a '90 XJ.
We had some runability problems at first due to vacume leaks at the intake manifold (wrong gasket, then missed a dowel with the right gasket). Those are fixed now, but the Jeep is running EXTREMELY rich. Black plugs, lots of residue at the tailpipe, 7mpg, power is "fluffy". We used the 24# FoMoCo injectors recomended by Golen and an adjustable fuel pressure regulator from Hesco set at 48#. It has a new O2 sensor, new MAP sensor.

Anyone run into this before, or have any suggestions?
We are thinking of putting in some injectors from a '98 Wrangler, They are 22# I believe.

Thanks in advance.
BDJL

Turn the fuel pressure down to 39psi (stock for '87-'95 models) and that should help a lot.

Thanks,
This is one of the things we were discussing. Why do Hesco and Golen recomend such a high pressure?

Dr. Dyno said:

Turn the fuel pressure down to 39psi (stock for '87-'95 models) and that should help a lot.

Click to expand...

Actually, it's 31 psi under normal engine vacuum. It jumps to 39 when engine vacuum drops at wide open throttle.

Fred

I have discussed this with Dr. Dyno myself. My 4.7 stroker dumps huge amounts of fuel.

Just in the past week, I hooked up an adjustable map and began adjusting it. Dyno runs his at 5.1 volts...Which is HIGHER than the 5.0 volts of the normal map. I am running at 3.3-3.4 volts to decrease the fuel delivery.

Right now it starts and runs but I want to get it dialed in properly before running it and risking blowing up the motor running too lean.

Before my adjustable map, I could run the motor for about 2 minutes before it would stall and not restart. I had to remove all 6 plugs, clean and burn off the extra fuel with a lighter. Crank over the motor only to see mists of fuel coming out of the cylinders. Then reinstall the plugs and fire up again. yet another 2 minutes and it was back to square one.

My plugs were literly DRIPPING with fuel.

Before you ask about spark. Copper plugs new, copper cap, copper rotor, 10.5mm fire wires, MSD Coil for that extra zap. I can arc my plug wire about 5-6 inches. Tested each spark plug for spark...holy hell its like an arc welder in there. So plugs ARE working.

I have checked my fuel pressure off the rail and everything checks out perfectly according to the FSM.

Trying to figure out why Dyno is running 5.1v which would make the injection pulse longer (thus MORE fuel) using 24lbs injectors. When I am at about 3.3v to shorting my fire hose of fuel to the cylinders.

Also talked to two other stroker guys on other boards...They are running mega rich too but not nearly as bad as mine.

I will be watching this thread to see if any good info comes out to help me and others.

To me this seems odd. I built and installed a stroker in my own and (according to plug readings) it is running fine with LT1 injectors. Mine is a '98 HO though.

If anything I worried about them running lean. Experience has changed my expectations.

Where can I get an adjustable MAP sensor for a Renix

bigdaddyjlove said:

To me this seems odd. I built and installed a stroker in my own and (according to plug readings) it is running fine with LT1 injectors. Mine is a '98 HO though.

If anything I worried about them running lean. Experience has changed my expectations.

Where can I get an adjustable MAP sensor for a Renix

Click to expand...

Couple of things.

Mine is a 90 block, 95 HO head, 99 intake with 95 fuel rail and fuel pressure regulator. Also a 95 throttle body opened up on the bottom side to 62mm and still 60mm at the butterfly.

My adjustable map was home built. I think turbocity sells them for $100 or even Hesco for 100. Mine was like $12 in parts.

I believe its madxj's website that has the info on parts and how to build it.

Thanks,

If we can't get it dialed in with pressure and injectors, I'll check how to build a MAP sensor.

I checked madxj's site and the link is down/gone.

If you need the docs, I think I have them in PDF form I could email to you.

Its pretty damn easy to build. I think there is about 8-10 parts total...Some wire for your leads. Hook up to map sensor and 12v and ground.

Small flat head screw driver will dial it in but having a gauge would be best to make sure your at 14.7

PMd you for the plans

Thanks

Here's my MAP adjuster site:

http://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/MAP_adjuster.html

Guys thanks again.

I am sending these to the guy with the Jeep. Unfortunately he lives 100m away, but he is coming up next weekend for a little wheeling trip. If he hasn't gotten it ironed out with fuel pressure by then, we are going to swap the sensors, and as cheap as these are to build, I think I may try to put one together before he gets here.

Just make sure you put it some where water proof(in cab)...Or use some epoxy on the electronics to keep them from shorting out. Not sure about your wheeling but mine is pretty muddy. Thus I have a snorkel for the deep holes.

If I build one for mine, I will seal it.

He's kind of a Nancy when it comes to off road:laugh:

Fred said:

Actually, it's 31 psi under normal engine vacuum. It jumps to 39 when engine vacuum drops at wide open throttle.

Fred

Click to expand...

Yeah, thanks. I already knew that but you are indeed correct.