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Shock Recommendations

Jason77

NAXJA Forum User
Location
CT
There are probably a bunch of similar discussions regarding this but I haven’t found one yet that is exactly what I’m looking for.

I picked up a ‘91 this year. First XJ but hopefully not the last. I’m using this one as a winter vehicle and a commuter. So far I’ve put 4,000 miles on it and it handles my 70 mile a day commute well. I’ve been picking away at things on it trying to walk the line between keeping it functional as a winter vehicle but not getting to deep into it. So far its gotten a new gas tank and brake lines due to leaks, and general tuning up and maintenance. Shocks are next on the list.

A few weeks ago I pulled out the rear shocks and replaced the worn out bushings that were thumping. Experienced the usual broken shock bolts and put everything back together using the brackets that replace the welded nuts. While they were out I was able to measure them and confirm that it needs shocks. The passenger rear is providing pretty much no damping anymore. The Jeep has an old Rusty’s lift that is about 4 inches. Rear shocks measure about 15.5” compressed and 25” extended. Looks like I can pick up Rusty’s shocks for $38 each. The question is are there any other budget price shocks worth considering before I call Rusty’s? The goal is to keep this one on the road and improve it for now but not take too much money away from the next XJ that I plan on building or my other Jeep that is resting for the winter. Walking the line between function and cost. Right now any level of function will be an improvement. I’ll do rears, then move on to fronts.

Any suggestions? Especially for something that I can pick up over the parts counter? (Like my front sway bar extensions that came from a Ford van?)

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I have installed several sets of DoetschTech DT3000 on my XJ's, and will be installing a fresh set this spring.

I have thrown away several sets of lightly used Monroe shocks that were too floppy, and gave away some 6 month old Rancho shocks that were useless crap.
 
I would check into KYB, both the regular and the Monomax. On the KYB regular, there is the G2 (US Made) and the Silver Ones (Made in Japan). The Silver ones are more desired. A bit stiffer than stock. The Momomax are also made in Japan. Stiff, but a bit less than Bilstein 5100. Monomax about $50 each.
 
I would check into KYB, both the regular and the Monomax. On the KYB regular, there is the G2 (US Made) and the Silver Ones (Made in Japan). The Silver ones are more desired. A bit stiffer than stock. The Momomax are also made in Japan. Stiff, but a bit less than Bilstein 5100. Monomax about $50 each.

When selecting generic (non-XJ specific) shocks such as this, where do find shock length info and damping info? And if these are generic shocks, does this mean bar pin eliminators and center hole mount eliminators are needed?
 
When selecting generic (non-XJ specific) shocks such as this, where do find shock length info and damping info? And if these are generic shocks, does this mean bar pin eliminators and center hole mount eliminators are needed?

I went through this with my present build, 2" lift.. I look at the stock shock length. Also, I referenced Rusty's site for shock lengths. Not perfect. For my front, I was looking at the KYB Monomax for a YJ. The Monomax was not listed for a YJ rear. I bought a generic shock from IRO. Looks like the low end Rancho. A bit soft I think. I have a set of Bilsteins side reservoirs I plan to try out.
I did latter do the Bar Pin eliminator on the rear. I did initially buy the JKS type. I did not do a good job of getting the screws out. So, I drilled out and slipped bolts from the top. I went with an IRO bracket type. I figured it would be better to have one bolt to undo, than the two per side. I did not find any dampening info. To some extent that is preferential choice.
I plan to do an upper and lower bar pin elimination on my next build on the front. So, use rear types front and rear. KYB does list mount types and lengths for their shocks. I am not sure about valving.
To the OP, check Iron Rock Offroad for prices on the mentioned Dotesch Tech shocks. I think $50 a shock. They do list some other less expensive shocks.

Also, to the OP: is it the rubber brake lines or the hard ones. Definitely check the hard line that goes to the rear. Also, check the harmonic balancer rubber for cracks.

Also, I didn't specifically need bar pin eliminators. But I did need to change out the shock bushings. Some of that came down to if I wanted the steel tube inserts. I like to have them in there if I can. I feel the rubber bushings last a bit better.
 
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I went through this with my present build, 2" lift.. I look at the stock shock length. Also, I referenced Rusty's site for shock lengths. Not perfect. For my front, I was looking at the KYB Monomax for a YJ. The Monomax was not listed for a YJ rear. I bought a generic shock from IRO. Looks like the low end Rancho. A bit soft I think. I have a set of Bilsteins side reservoirs I plan to try out.
I did latter do the Bar Pin eliminator on the rear. I did initially buy the JKS type. I did not do a good job of getting the screws out. So, I drilled out and slipped bolts from the top. I went with an IRO bracket type. I figured it would be better to have one bolt to undo, than the two per side. I did not find any dampening info. To some extent that is preferential choice.
I plan to do an upper and lower bar pin elimination on my next build on the front. So, use rear types front and rear. KYB does list mount types and lengths for their shocks. I am not sure about valving.
To the OP, check Iron Rock Offroad for prices on the mentioned Dotesch Tech shocks. I think $50 a shock. They do list some other less expensive shocks.

Also, to the OP: is it the rubber brake lines or the hard ones. Definitely check the hard line that goes to the rear. Also, check the harmonic balancer rubber for cracks.

Also, I didn't specifically need bar pin eliminators. But I did need to change out the shock bushings. Some of that came down to if I wanted the steel tube inserts. I like to have them in there if I can. I feel the rubber bushings last a bit better.


It was the hard lines that leaked. I replaced all hard and soft lines including the long run from front to rear. Also had to end up replacing a proportioning valve. Antilock has been eliminated on this one so it’s probably a little simpler than it once was. I think that was part of swapping in axles from a 4 cylinder for the regear. I’ll check the harmonic balancer. That’s one thing that has not been on my list to check.


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Sweet. You have 4.10s

I like monomax shocks alot. More so than the 5100s im running.

Not sure on the length you need.

Remove front coils and get measurements full stuff to full extension and order accordingly.
They rear might be alittle tougher use a floor jack with tires removed and articulate it to get full extension and near full stuff.

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I have also heard good things about the IRO shocks. I have BDS shocks on my CJ-7 and they work well. I prefer Bilstein 4600 monotubes for my street Jeeps
 
https://www.ironrockoffroad.com/category/shocks-7758.html

IRO had some budget shocks before the 'Trail Tamer'. And also the ones I bought, white boxed one. They were on clearance.
As for the KYB G2s, I did have some of them struts on a Neon. The felt good. Yeah, not apples to apples.
As, for the rear bar pin eliminator (JKS type) I had installed, I had cut the bar pins and the one I had didn't seem long enough.

Edit: Also, I take the info from Kevin's Offroad to run a WJ steering stabilizer when running larger tires.
 
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Supposedly.

Got ti thinking im not sure id run the stiffer shocks on a short arm lifted xj.

Long arms will feel better with stiffer shocks short arms better with softer.

The short arms are transmitting or of the energy from the bump through the arms and less into the shocks compared to long arms. If that makes sence?

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Rancho's, been running them for 20yrs now because of their adjustability. I have my settings for the street/road, my washboard settings, and my crawling settings.
 
I run the 9000's in the manual mode configuration, I just do it when I'm airing down so it takes only a couple seconds.
 
Double tracking rutted results n stuff. How fast do you drive.

Many people love the Ranchos just as many hate them.
I had a set of 9000s that started leaking on me. Never bought another set.

For going fast on rutted rds id recomend some fox 2.0s or bilstein 7100s

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For what it's worth I was a Bilstein and a KYB distributor. I always ran Bilstein's for the race car and KYB's for general street/occasional off-road use, but the rancho's for crawling are hard to beat on a daily driver.
 
Double tracking rutted results n stuff. How fast do you drive.

Many people love the Ranchos just as many hate them.
I had a set of 9000s that started leaking on me. Never bought another set.

For going fast on rutted rds id recomend some fox 2.0s or bilstein 7100s

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Low speed family outings. Need max comfort, so opposite end of what you were guessing.

For what it's worth I was a Bilstein and a KYB distributor. I always ran Bilstein's for the race car and KYB's for general street/occasional off-road use, but the rancho's for crawling are hard to beat on a daily driver.

My impression from reading the various posts and my own experience with Bilsteins on other cars is that all the Bilstein options are pretty heavily damped.
 
That's pretty much correct.
 
For family outing i picture a rig full if people cooler s couple dogs minumum on recovery gear maybe camping supplies and fishing stuff. Might be fairly heavily loaded.
I think most any decent shocks will work kyb monomax , bilstein, ive also read those doetch shocks mentioned earlier are decent.

Jeep gladiator fox take offs with pin adapter may also work on the front they are fairly soft and might be found on Craigslist for a set of four for a couple hundred bucks. Might even be the correct length for your lift.
Thats what im running. I really like them.

I payed 100 or 150 for the set of four on Craigslist
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