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5-90 Battery Cables

Skits

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Tulsa, OK
So my Jeep has about 120K miles on it, and the battery and ground cables are so worn out and corroded that they aren't worth saving. I wanted to do things right (as opposed to doing things the way the factory had done), so I checked out 5-90's cables on his site and came *this* close to ordering some. At that point my superiority complex kicked in, and I decided I could save some money by making the cables myself. I would probably convince myself I could cast a new engine block in the back yard if I thought I could save a few bucks.

Long story short, after buying all the cabling/connectors/heatshrink I saved about $5 over a set of 5-90's cables including shipping. I spent a good chunk of time cutting, stripping, crimping, and heatshrinking...my crimps are workable but fugly because I wasn't going to spend the money on a heavy cable crimper I'd use 4 times in my life. On top of that, I ended up with all black cable because thats what the local welding shop had.

The moral of the story is:

If you decide to replace your battery mains, just buy the stuff from 5-90 and save yourself the hassle.
 
what is 5-90 and where do i find it? Feel like a retard for asking. I was just going to upgrade all my wires to 2ga.
 
pretty sure he's referring to 5-90, a member on this forum
 
we sell 2 gauge battery cables at Advance Auto, I use the short ones as beefy amp grounds and power wires from the capacitor to the amp when I do stereo installs for people.
 
The only way to get a really good crimp is with a heavy duty crimp set.

I have access to a hydraulic one at work, but I still bought the cables from 5-90. They come the right length and bolt in.
 
I am a certified mobile electronics installer i have ran alot of 2ga wire and i never ever crimp them. Nothing wrong with it just way easier to solder them on. Looks much more professional too.
 
5-90's look great. do a search for his name he has a link to his site in his sig.

i made some for my 90 a few years back and it makes a huge diference in the start time. i also worked at a place that wired up trucks for the phone companies so i had access to all heave gage electrical and crimping tools. it was a free upgrade at the time.

this time around i wil buy 5-90's
 
5-90 said:
Just to save searching - here I am, and here's my sig with a link in it...

Please ask questions backchannel, so I don't get nicked for "advertising in the Tech boards..."


now your just blatenly trying to get your post counts up:compwork: :laugh3:
 
X..6,391 ... ad me to the list of satified customers of 5-90! It's great to deal with a PROFESSIONAL. For those who think they can save a buck ...:looser:
 
I just made my 1 ga. battery cables. I worked at a heavy equipment shop and picked up some cable from them that was going to get thrown out because it was too short to use on any of the equipment. I got the red and black I also got some ends that can either be crimped or soldered. I decided to use solder because I have seen the crimped ones loosen up. Soldering them creates less resistance and better connection. I also taped mine but was unable to find shrink tube big enough. I seen 5-90's and they do look like a good upgrade and if I ever need more I know were to go. But I got only $3.00 in mine for some solder.
 
94XJ2door5speed said:
I am a certified mobile electronics installer i have ran alot of 2ga wire and i never ever crimp them. Nothing wrong with it just way easier to solder them on. Looks much more professional too.


Amongst a lot of other thing I am an ABYC certified Electrical Marine technican.
I have done a tremendous amount of marine and automotive electrical installations/re-wiring. I don't know how you can say soldering is EASIER than crimping.
FWIW, it is against ABYC marine electrical code to soler connections as it breaks down the metal and contributes to corrossion in the long run. a good single of double crimp (with appropriate crimpers), coupled with good electrical paste and good heat shrink is easier, faster, quicker and better than soldering connections.

just my $0.02

CaptTrev
 
CaptTrev said:
Amongst a lot of other thing I am an ABYC certified Electrical Marine technican.
I have done a tremendous amount of marine and automotive electrical installations/re-wiring. I don't know how you can say soldering is EASIER than crimping.
FWIW, it is against ABYC marine electrical code to soler connections as it breaks down the metal and contributes to corrossion in the long run. a good single of double crimp (with appropriate crimpers), coupled with good electrical paste and good heat shrink is easier, faster, quicker and better than soldering connections.

just my $0.02

CaptTrev

FWIW, my rule is "solder aft of the firewall, crimp before." I've seen too many solders 'go cold' due to heat cycling underhood to want to trust it - and I like to think I'm pretty damned good at soldering (electrical and mechanical. And brazing.)

Corrosion inhibitor - insert wire - crimp - cold-shrink tape - heat-shrink tubing is how I do it. I tested a cable's seal by immersing it in a bucked of salt water for a year - no trouble. As an industrial mechanic, I had to fix too many soldered joints in the engine bay. I can see why it wouldn't be used in marine applications - not only are heat cycles an issue, but vibration can also be an issue (as solder will "wick up" into the wire past the join.)

What's ABYC?
 
5-90 said:
What's ABYC?
ABYC – American Boat and Yacht Council

Reguarding soldering: I always solder and then heat shink tube over the joint.
 
Last edited:
RCman said:
ABYC – American Boat and Yacht Council

Reguarding soldering: I always solder and then heat shink tube over the joint.

Ah - thank you.

If I'm soldering, I'll solder/shrink as well (usually with double-wall tube,) but I just won't do it forward of the firewall. I've seen too many problems caused by solder joins going bad, and I don't want any in my work. Crimp/shrink is the route I take underhood.
 
I'm so happy with 5-90's stuff I haven't had time to put it on yet, maybe I'm soft in my old age and don't want to get cold, very professional kit and I cant wait to go at it, should have bought the hub with it, damn, if I only had his cell #....
 
where do i send the paypal??? :)

i need to replace these stock ones and figure out a setup that doesnt make me put my hellas, reverse lights, cb and 12volt all onto the post off the battery.

My dad told me I need to get a "distrubution block" or something...

any input?? (sorry for the hijackkk) been putting this off since the fall.
 
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