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Aftermarket fan blade (direct drive)?

The torque converter should not be locking at idle or low speeds. I noticed on my 91 that once I removed the transmission fluid from going through the cooler and just used an external cooler, the engine ran hotter, the transmission was actually pulling heat from the radiator.
 
Over heating in the drive-thru, in stop-n-go traffic, or on the 4x4 trails is a primary symptom of a faulty mechanical fan clutch.

XJ 4.0L run about 195*-210* and the e-fan turns on at about 218-220*. I have had crappy thermostats that were lazy about opening fully, or only lasted a year or two.

A 4 cylinder Cherokee fan clutch engages sooner and spins faster that the stock 4.0L clutch. You just have to be very sure it fits with enough clearance and the the motor mounts are fresh.

Which 4 cylinder are you talking about? The early Renix, late Renix, or newer?
IIRC the early Renix spins the opposite direction. Don't know about the newer ones.
 
Find that hard to believe.....that clutch fan provides way more cooling than a stock unit....

Only way that clutch can cause it to get worse is from the added load on the engine., and if that is true....you have a serious heat problem.

You sure you don't have a cracked head ?

And a 1 row core radiator is a bad idea.....


.
 
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The 1 row aluminum Spectra is all that Napa has, it's the standard Spectra that many on here use without issues. I can only guarantee a non cracked head as far as exhaust gases are not present in the cooling system and the cooling system pressure tests good and I don't lose any coolant or gain oil. But that also doesn't mean it's not cracked. Those exhaust gas tests are highly undependable.

As far as the clutch, it's definitely "on" more than the dealer clutch but my temps also will not drop back to 200 like they would with the dealer clutch which makes zero sense to me.
 
Mine runs 190 all day long without A/C, 200-205 with....

195 deg t-stat

NAPA is not the only place to get a radiator. Try Rock Auto....way more choices and probably cheaper too...
 
It was like $70 at Napa. That's why I asked about the mishimoto in that thread but nobody answered. I don't have the $$$ to drop on a Griffin or I would.
 
I live in Las Vegas and we regularly see temps in excess of 117 degrees. I have all stock cooling parts and can crawl with the A/C full blast and I don't have any problems. Those cheapy radiators and the CSF radiators don't cool worth a shit. Trust me, been there, done that. You need the actual Max cool Mopar one. Part # 52080104 AC. You can get it at Rockauto. Nothing else cools as good as the Mopar Max cool one, period.

Also, Check to make sure that all the shrouds are all there. And like Old Man said, get the '99+ A/C electric fan for the left fan. And for an added bonus, use the ZJ fan clutch, but make sure you have good motor and trans mounts.
 
That number does not correspond to a Mopar radiator on rockauto it is a csf.

That radiator is hard to come by now. Mopar does not make them anymore. I think all is left is NOS. I bought one off Ebay a couple of months ago.

I recently put a Cold Case radiator in my other XJ. Seems to work fine so far.
 
We need an XJ cooling system sticky thread
hastas
 
How's the build quality on that cold case? Can you measure the fpi and individual core width? I had a 2 core champion that was a waste of $$$

The quality was fine, welds looked nice. The fitment was very good. I don't know about the FPI, I'll have to measure it. I think it is 2-1" rows. The core is pretty thick. I haven't done any wheeling yet with that radiator, so I'm not sure of the off road performance, so far on road, it's been fine.

One thing I did notice, is that the packaging was the best I'd ever seen. You would be hard pressed to damage that radiator in shipping. Large box, and radiator is surrounded by a lot of styrofoam.

It did replace an American Eagle radiator from Champion Radiators I originally put in that Jeep. It was similar to the Cold Case, 2-1" rows. That radiator was great, but unfortunately it developed small leaks after about 4-5 years. In fact, I had to send the first one back beacause of a leak right out of the box. They don't offer the AE radiator anymore, and I opted to not use anything else from Champion Radiators.

I'll try to measure the FPI and report back.
 
Something is still amiss. The 4 banger clutch from Napa slowed the heating to 220 but only by a few minutes. A/C is still a no go as it goes to and above 220. Now to think about an electric fan from something. I cannot find the taurus fan anymore. Volvo fans with the curved style blades are non existent. Do the Volvo square blade style work as good?

As others have said, there is something wrong with your cooling system, or the head is cracked. You can try to resolve it one component at a time, or throw the kitchen sink at it. Its cake to replace the thermostat and flush the system, but water pump and radiator replacement might as well be done at the same time.
 
For what it's worth, I read that heavy duty Hayden clutches
were tighter and produced more fan rpm than the stock clutch.

I have a Hayden on my 96, and can attest it functions better
than the old stock clutch, but it might be because it's just
newer.
 
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