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Bad factory Track bar frame mount

Bah765

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Noblesville, IN
The hole is no longer a perfect circle. It was drilled out to 5/8 for a new RE1600 track bar but it was not done perfectly. I fear this will cause DW. :skull2:

I do not have a welder so please do not suggest that, I know it might be the only option here.
Does any one have any suggestions? Can I use an aftermarket double sheer with my heim joint?
I am at 3" of lift and cant find ANY brackets for that amount of lift. HELP!
Thanks.
 
Just get a double shear bracket like the one RE or a million other companies make. RE's can accommodate a cross-frame brace. As long as you TB is adjustable you can probably get it within range with any of the common aftermarket TB brackets
 
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I have the JKS track bar. Just put it on this weekend. Allowed me to center my axle - had to move it over 3/8" of an inch because it was 3/4" inch off with the lift. It requires drilling out the factory track bar frame mount to 9/16". This requires very little drilling and its all towards the top of the factory mount. The JKS also comes with a little tapered piece to fit the existing tapered hole. The hardest part is keeping the drill from whipping around. Wear gloves and make sure you have a way to tighten the 1-1/2" OD jam nut. Not having a 1-1/2" combination wrench, I used a pipe wrench. JKS sells a tool for this for about $15-16.
 
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I would never recomend a single sheer track bar mount. Modifying the stock bracket leads to the situation you are in.

RE 1665 is the bracket to convert the 1600 to a double sheer setup.

I also run a cross frame brace for the backet as well. RE 1670.

Everything re makes you can find on amazon. Just search the part numbers.
 
Looks can be deceiving, the RE double sheer mount is in the same location as stock. So no drop pitman is needed.
You will need washers/spacers inbetween the inside of the bracket and the heim spacers. It is safe to use this way.
The 1660 has a different/larger joint than the RE1600 heim, so it is plug n pray for that.
 
Looks can be deceiving, the RE double sheer mount is in the same location as stock. So no drop pitman is needed.
You will need washers/spacers inbetween the inside of the bracket and the heim spacers. It is safe to use this way.
The 1660 has a different/larger joint than the RE1600 heim, so it is plug n pray for that.

the RE bracket should not need to run a washer with the 1600 track bar. the cartridge joint in their other track bar and the missalignment spacer in the heim in their 1600 bar both measure 2" wide. i run the 1600 track bar converted to double sheer. but if something has changed over the years... yes, a washer is safe to run.



an important note is that most other track bar brackets either run a 2.5" mounting width for a johny joint, or are narrower than 2" for a bushing. both can be made to work as well.
 
Thanks A LOT guys! Its been two days since I e-mailed RE tech support for this info and they have yet to get back to me. I did find that Clayton makes a HD frame mount that is of "stock" size. It takes a 2.5 JJ. I think I will go ahead and run the RE mount since I have the 1600 and really need to get my Jeep back on the road.
 
Another stock frame bracket from the Pick-n-Pull should be about $10. I think I have seen some threads about using a johnny joint and a double shear frame bracket on the RE 1600.

NAXJA sponsor JKS makes a real nice 1-3.5" track bar. http://jksmfg.com/c-381059-shop-by-vehicle-cherokee-xj-trackbar-complete-trackbars.html

correct.....currie part number... CE-9112N75L-14 2.0JJ FORGED END X 3/4-16 LH, NARROW BODY W/-14 BALL (.625 HOLE X 1.600 OAW)
http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/Product569.aspx?id=3580

Screwed it right into my re 1600 track bar, and use the RE track bar mount, works great....
 
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I'd rather run Rough Country's TRE type single shear than RE's heim joint single shear. If I was going to run the RE, I'd make it double shear. If I wasn't going to do that, I'd buy a 5/8" fine thread Allen bolt and torque it to spec with a locking nut and loctite. Possibly a hardened washer under the head, for good measure.
With enough clamping force, you won't wallow out the mount. Whether you can get that clamping force from a 5/8 bolt is beyond me - but a fine thread Allen bolt is going to be a helluva lot better than most of what's getting used.
 
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