Ive got a 96 2 door 2WD that ill be converting to 4WD with 85 wagoneer d44 axles. Ive already bought a T&T front truss with only the drivers side UCA mount. I would really like to buy the clayton 3 link crossmember and rear components for the 4 link, but making my own links and using better joints. The question I want to ask is has anyone done a 3 link and/or rear 4 link on less than 6 inches of lift? I noticed clayton only offers their kits for lifts 6.5 inches and higher. I would really like to be around 4-5 inches max.
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clayton 3 link and rear 4 link with under 6" of lift.
- Thread starter josh9mile
- Start date
im running 5.5" with clayton frame crossmembers and my own arms, have a friends xj with 5ish and clayton 4 link kit, regardless if you don't have bent rear uppers you will have to cut the floor a lot to clear them. besides that lift hight aint so much a issue. whats your beef with the johnny joints? ive yet to have a issue with running them.
highspeed
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Owens Cross Roads, Alabama
He answered your questions better than I can
sardo_67
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- western CT
about 6/6.5 inches of actual lift, i have 3.5in axle tubes and spring perches that make i out to be that much.
the floor in the back is the issue with being low, you can just hammer it up or keep the lift around 6 which isn't that high at all. mine is on 37"s there, i'm 5'10" with work boots on and it's only an inch taller than me if that.
what's your deal with jonny joints?
the floor in the back is the issue with being low, you can just hammer it up or keep the lift around 6 which isn't that high at all. mine is on 37"s there, i'm 5'10" with work boots on and it's only an inch taller than me if that.
what's your deal with jonny joints?
- Location
- Roseville, CA
she's a 'beut clark
at 4.5" or 6.5" hes gonna have to bumpstop the same for whatever tire hes running, so theres no need for him to be at 6.5" and if you would actually wheel you can feel the difference, especially with coils
theoriginalscion
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- syracuse,ny
As to the three link front. At 4.5" with 35's my upper arm issmashing into floor. Im running pass side 3rd. With a ballistic 3 link bracket i have to use the lowest of three mounting holes for arm seperation just to run setup.
I have acopyed clayton member. Buy theres sAve your time. Make arms. I used ballistic joints with 5/8 through hole on all 6 joints.
Whats claytons kit use for third link axle mounting. Bracet or stock rubber bushing. ???
I have acopyed clayton member. Buy theres sAve your time. Make arms. I used ballistic joints with 5/8 through hole on all 6 joints.
Whats claytons kit use for third link axle mounting. Bracet or stock rubber bushing. ???
Thats the height I want to be at. How bad does it hit the floor? Is it only at full stuff, or at ride height that it hits the floor? I think the clayton kit uses a johnny joint bracket for 3rd link axle mount, but im going to use a bushing since that is what my truss is set up for.
theoriginalscion
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- syracuse,ny
At 4.5" in front upper arm only hits when stuffing it. I ll just let it keep making room it needs.
I dont like third link bracket close to hitting motor or body.
After playing with upper arm the plane that it moves in is effected by axle seperation of front arms. So the lower the axle side of upper arm is mounted the less likly for upper arm to hit floor. Also height at crossmember end will come into play.
I dont like third link bracket close to hitting motor or body.
After playing with upper arm the plane that it moves in is effected by axle seperation of front arms. So the lower the axle side of upper arm is mounted the less likly for upper arm to hit floor. Also height at crossmember end will come into play.
Im at 4.5in with the clayton 3 link. My upper self clearanced a bit. Im still working on getting it dialed in but its not too bad. I will take a picture today and upload it. Im running my own links as well. So far its "clearance" right at the base of the transmission tunnel (which was first done as I was cyclibg the axle and it wasnt centered with the track bar. It may have got a little more but it doesnt affect anything), and I jad the axle walk a bit and it clearanced the down pipe. I blame most of this on my own retardation.
I also have the rear crossmember and skid plate but no 4 link. Ill take a picture but I imagine you could get the uppers in with minimal body work. Or just let the arms do their thing.
*im writing this with the assumption that this is on the way to being a trail rig that will see some abuse. My rig is trailered to and from the trail and is a beater in every sense of the word. I use it as a self teaching project for fab and welding so my acceptable clearncing iasues may not apply to you.
I also have the rear crossmember and skid plate but no 4 link. Ill take a picture but I imagine you could get the uppers in with minimal body work. Or just let the arms do their thing.
*im writing this with the assumption that this is on the way to being a trail rig that will see some abuse. My rig is trailered to and from the trail and is a beater in every sense of the word. I use it as a self teaching project for fab and welding so my acceptable clearncing iasues may not apply to you.
