The adjustable trackbar thread

Companies of mention that make TB's:
PORC makes a TRE and a Hiem end track bar
Rusty's makes a TRE and a Bushing end track bar. Bushing end needs a special mount
RE makes a Hiem and a Superflex end track bar. The Superflex joint end requires a special frame mount.
RRO makes a TRE track bar that requires no special mount.







This thread:
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=34026&highlight=es140r
says that the Stock TRE on a Cherokee is:
The MOOG/McQuay-Norris part number is ES140R

I e-mailed Rocky-Road and found that the TRE that they use is:
ES140R

and this thread:
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=25140&highlight=es140r
above says that Rusty's uses:
ES140R

But Rusty’s website also lists that they have changed part numbers to the TJ stock TRE with a part number of:

52005740

Which means that the RRO track bar can be used with a Rusty's HD End and Mount.

I called RE and found out the following:

The non-HD RE track bar uses a ¾” thread hiem joint – but uses the same track bar as the HD version.

The HD track bar uses a Superflex joint setup with a 1” thread stud into the same track bar as the Non-HD version. The HD uses a 10mm bolt in a double shear setup compared to the single shear heim setup.

The Non-HD version uses a threaded insert to make up the difference of the threads between the two track bars.

The Superflex joint on the HD version is a 2” superflex joint and the mount therefore has a 2” opening.



Currie Enterprises makes a 2” Johnny Joint that would fit into the RE bracket.

However the curie JJ has a ¾” thread and the RRO track bar has 11/16” threads… so a Currie JJ would work in a RE non-HD bar – if you wanted…



The RE mounting bracket hole is about ¾” lower that the stock Cherokee mounting location. I asked the RE sales rep if I could drill a hole at the stock mounting location (3/4” above their hole) and if that would completely ruin the structural integrity. He said probably not. You would want to do this because of steering angles – mine are currently set up perfectly and I have no bump steer – so dropping the TB ¾” would mess me up.

I don’t want to go the Rusty's bushing on both ends and limit flex – I’d rather have a JJ or a spherical bearing.



So, that leaves me to drill and tap my RRO adjustable track bar to ¾” threads or buy a new track bar…



When I get time, ill keep updated with my status…
:us:

search terms: trackbar, track bar, panhard, adjustable, hiem, heim, and everything else that is above...

Black Diamond also makes one.
http://www.4wheelerssupply.com/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/1582

Why would you even want a flex joint on a track bar with the double shear mount? Track bar only needs to go up and down. That flex joint is just one more thing to transmit vibrations and wear itself out in my opinion. I like my Rusty's with the simple poly bushing. I could be wrong on this but it's how I feel.

y2kxj said:

Why would you even want a flex joint on a track bar with the double shear mount? Track bar only needs to go up and down. That flex joint is just one more thing to transmit vibrations and wear itself out in my opinion. I like my Rusty's with the simple poly bushing. I could be wrong on this but it's how I feel.

Click to expand...

The track bar actually does a bit more than just go up and down, if you have a modified suspension with a lot of lift. Especially if you don't have control arm drop brackets.

With a stock suspension, the lower control arms are basically parallel to the ground and as the axle moves up and down from the "at rest" position, there's relatively little angular change. Factor in a 4" to 6" lift and the lower control arms are now at a significant angle. Then remove the sway bar for maximum articulation off road, and the eaxle can swing up quite some distance. Along with that vertical distance there's also rotation as the assembly pivots around the lower control arms frame mounts. And ... as the axle moves up and rotates, it is also pushed forward. So the track bar bushings on a lifted XJ go through a lot more than on a stock XJ driven only on pavement.

Don't forget RockKrawler.
They make one with or without the bracket.
http://www.rockkrawler.com/pages/xjcomponents.html

Lore5 said:

Black Diamond also makes one.
http://www.4wheelerssupply.com/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/1582

Click to expand...

RedBluffBoy said:

Don't forget RockKrawler.
They make one with or without the bracket.
http://www.rockkrawler.com/pages/xjcomponents.html

Click to expand...

thanks guys - that is the purpose of this thread...

If there is any more info on these bars add them. From the pictures - it looks like they both use hiems... (not bad - but not what im looking for)

thanks

This thread is awesome. Now I know I don't have to buy a whole new trackbar when I want to get rid of my hiem joint. I can just use the Currie JJ. HOORAY!

Eagle said:

The track bar actually does a bit more than just go up and down, if you have a modified suspension with a lot of lift. Especially if you don't have control arm drop brackets.

With a stock suspension, the lower control arms are basically parallel to the ground and as the axle moves up and down from the "at rest" position, there's relatively little angular change. Factor in a 4" to 6" lift and the lower control arms are now at a significant angle. Then remove the sway bar for maximum articulation off road, and the eaxle can swing up quite some distance. Along with that vertical distance there's also rotation as the assembly pivots around the lower control arms frame mounts. And ... as the axle moves up and rotates, it is also pushed forward. So the track bar bushings on a lifted XJ go through a lot more than on a stock XJ driven only on pavement.

Click to expand...

I stand corrected.

WobblesXJ said:

This thread is awesome. Now I know I don't have to buy a whole new trackbar when I want to get rid of my hiem joint. I can just use the Currie JJ. HOORAY!

Click to expand...

not exactly- the RE trackbar with hiem accepts either a 3/4" LEFT HAND THREAD (with the current insert) or a 1" LEFT HAND THREAD stud with the insert removed. You also need a new frame mount.

There has been much debate as to wether or not currie makes a JJ with left hand threads, but it seems that some people are having luck.

just some things to be aware of....

well im a little confused, i have the Rocky road outfitters adj. track bar, and i NEED to get the Rustys HD bracket, so i can stop my Poppin noisees, their so annoying, and i also want rustys bracket because i wanna try this new bushing conversion, anway, so can or cant I use the Rustys HD bracket and new end, on my Rocky road ADJ track bar ? will the new end fit in to my existing track bar ? or do i have to buy a whole new track bar ?

i have an RE trackbar with the heim joint i think it's RE1600, i have to get the RE or rusty's HD frame mount, will the RE1600 bolt to that mount? or is it for the one with the superflex joint? I HAVE to get the frame mount so any help would be great.

me too, i need to know if Rustys HD bracket and new end will fit on my RRO track bar PLEAAAAAAAASE help

So has anyone figured out for sure if currie has a left handed 2" jj?

Just get yourself a JKS and be done with it. Mine should be here in a few days :greensmok

generalleexj said:

well im a little confused, i have the Rocky road outfitters adj. track bar, and i NEED to get the Rustys HD bracket, so i can stop my Poppin noisees, their so annoying, and i also want rustys bracket because i wanna try this new bushing conversion, anway, so can or cant I use the Rustys HD bracket and new end, on my Rocky road ADJ track bar ? will the new end fit in to my existing track bar ? or do i have to buy a whole new track bar ?

Click to expand...

From my research above - you would have to find your own stud for any HD type joint on the RRO trackbar OR drill out the trackbar and thread it for bigger threads.
The RRO trackbar had 11/16" threads and all HD ends have 3/4" threads or 1" threads.
I believe that the hiem end on the PORC was 11/16" and may work - contact them for details.
The rusty's HD bracket and End will not work with your system as it is.

mack said:

i have an RE trackbar with the heim joint i think it's RE1600, i have to get the RE or rusty's HD frame mount, will the RE1600 bolt to that mount? or is it for the one with the superflex joint? I HAVE to get the frame mount so any help would be great.

Click to expand...

RE with the hiem has a sleve in it that reduces the outer tube inner diamiter from 1" threads to 3/4" threads.
Currie makes a 3/4" thread studded JJ (dont know about the Right hand / left hand threads - RE trackbar needs Left hand threads)
RE also makes a 3/4" thread studded superflex joint that may work. Either the Rusty's bracket will work or the RE bracket will work - they both have a 2" opening. Im more inclined towards the RE bracket because it isnt a drop bracket and keeps the leverage on the weak frame to a minimum as well as keeping my steering/trackbar at close to the same angle.

Does that help?

Excuse my ignorance but what does "single shear and double shear" mean??I ask this because when I put my 5.5 inch lift r.e did'nt send the 10mm bolt for the track bar so I had to go to the hardware store and get the bolt,so i'm just making sure I got the right hardware.Is it just a 10mm bolt and nut?

jeepdeepfreak said:

Excuse my ignorance but what does "single shear and double shear" mean??I ask this because when I put my 5.5 inch lift r.e did'nt send the 10mm bolt for the track bar so I had to go to the hardware store and get the bolt,so i'm just making sure I got the right hardware.Is it just a 10mm bolt and nut?

Click to expand...

your bolts fine - I will explain more - have class now

generalleexj said:

me too, i need to know if Rustys HD bracket and new end will fit on my RRO track bar PLEAAAAAAAASE help

Click to expand...

And i messed up with my last responce - yes it will
Rustys and RRO used the same TRE for a while so the threads on their HD system *should* be the same.
call and ask if the threads on their HD end are 11/16" - that is what you need...

good luck

XJ_ranger said:

your bolts fine - I will explain more - have class now

Click to expand...

ok - here are some booty fab pictures of Double Shear and Single Shear setups. The obivous reason that double shear is better is that there are no limits on the flex (in relation to the up/down play in the axle - the limit on the flex is the front back play as the suspentyion cycles - but with a 30* in any direction spherical bearing - that is prettymuch a free rotation)

Single Shear Setup


Double Shear Setup

Thanxs