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Newbe Lift install

BTW, do you have sway bar drop brackets? Those move the center-line of the sway bar forward about a 1/2".
 
RCP Phx - This is the first time I have heard about the sway bar brackets! I have not seen them as part of a parts list on complete kits. Is the assumption that the sway bar will not be used?

I still need to move the axle back. There is potential of interference with the track bar- diff /cover and the drop bracket-spring.

I am pleased you mentioned the sway bar brackets!

Currently, there is nearly enough room to accommodate the sway bar in the stock location. I will assess at that point.
 
Do the use of the brackets cause an interference with the factory skid plate?

IIRC, the answer is yes. Out of my 9 XJ's only one(I think it was the '87 Chief) that came with one, I still have it somewhere!
 
Yea, I checked just by looking. there is a relief in the mount for the sway bar. moving it will force not using it or modifying it. There were two reasons for using it. One is the obvious and ths second is to mount the JKS disco's when disconnected.

Going to adjust on Wednesday. Will get back with results.

RCP Phx, thanks for your participation in this thread! I've not had 9 XJ's but did have three at one point with a ZJ which was replaced with a WJ.
 
Job done. Moved the axle back by adjusting the lowers by about 1/3" and the uppers to get a caster of about 5.5* This fixed the issue with interference with JKS discos and the rubbing on the drop bracket.

49918616028_d3114fef4f_c.jpg
[/url]P1030351 on Flickr[/IMG]

The replacement track bar showed up and is different than the one they sent in 2016. They moved the adjustment from the axle to the frame and changed the bends.

Old bar
P1030347, on Flickr

New Bar
P1030339, on Flickr

What is frustrating is that the shortest distance on the new bar is too long! I am in discussion with them about next steps. the adjustable end with the male threads does not thread all the way in. There is enough thread showing to allow for the jam nut but that is about all. If I am to make this bar work, I will likely cut part of the threaded end off to allow for it to thread further in without the jam nut.
If the nut is to be used, The bar will have to be cut as well.
There should have been enough room as the height is at 4" and the bar was suppose to be designed for 3 - 8" lift.
I am using the original drop bracket from 2016. I don't know fit they changed the design causing the problem. It would be more work than I am interested in doing to change it out. If that ends up being the problem then I will do it.
49916623383_31dce95b75_c.jpg
[/url]P1030340 , on Flickr[/IMG]

Oh and it doesn't look like I need the sway bar relocation brackets. My plan is to install the OEM skid and use it to store the JKS Discos when disconnected.
 
Two more issues.
1. The replacement rear axle has a different mounting bolt for the brake line T. Much larger than the one that came out. Don't know if it is metric or ASE, fine or course. Using tie straps on either side to hold it down.

2. Bump stops. I bought the Daystar extended replacements. My calculations are that they needed to be 1 1/2" longer to compensate for the shock length change. They are closer to 2" longer. don't know if I should cut them shorter or not. I will wait until the right tires are installed, then check again.
The OEM bumps fell right out. I used two stacked large deep sockets as spacers to locate the BS with the axle in full droop, then jacked the axle up to force the BS in to the sockets. Used windex to lubricate. worked like a charm.

This whole effort started because one of the ebrake cables was longer than the other and I couldn't adjust the ebrake to pass safety inspection. That and the OEM springs were sagged and the rear end was making uncomfortable sounds. Now it is ready for inspection!
 
1986 jeep cherokee laredo 2 door sport lifting it 3.5 i have then coils springs lower control arms sway bar links for it doing a s10 bastard pack i need infor on what shocks to use and what can i do on a budget for my track bar i was seeing info on just redrilling a hole about a inch over and info would be appreciated
0324bfac6f17b68f2fe19db4330b35ca.jpg


Sent from my SM-G981U using Tapatalk
 
At 3.5 of lift, you really should install a proper adjustable track bar. I prefer the double shear track bar from Iron Rock Off Road.

Shocks from DoetschTech, BDS, or Iron Rock have worked well for me. Don't bother with anything from Rough Country, Tough Country, or Rancho.
 
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thanks!
Bump stops resolved.
Ordered a bracket to go with the track bar. Everything now is connected without interferenece!
Passed saftey for Virginia. Was told I should register as Antique to avoid a number of contributions like safety checks and possibly taxes. Need to check into that one!

Now I have a cooling problem. I slowly gets hotter as I drive.
Thinking of FlowKool pump. Had one before that made a difference along with a new viscous hub because you can't really test them. Radiator would be last move.
 
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