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8.8 and driveshaft questions

egon

Dunlop Slayer
NAXJA Member
Location
New Jersey
I think I'm finally set in what I'm going to get to redo the rear on my '96. To start, cause its badly needed, is the RE hack and tap SYE and an RE CV drive shaft. After everthing I've read about both items, they appear to be very good quality and the price is right. At first I'm going to run this with my D35, but will be replacing the 35 with an 8.8.

I've read that the pinion length of the 35 and 8.8 are very close, is this true?

Will I be able to buy the shaft now and have it be the right lenght for both axles?

Would changing the pinion flange on the 8.8 out for a yoke be a negative in any way?

Is identifing an 8.8 that has hot rolled electric welded axletubes as easy as looking for the seam? I've seen tube that has been made from rolling and welding sheet metal and there is a visible seam, do I understand that this the same process used on some 8.8 tubes?

Thanks guys.

--Matt
 
DO NOT change teh companion flange for a yoke. One of the coolest features of the 8.8 is the flange output, as it protects the U-joint, and sort of rolls along rocks rather than self destructing.

The other benefit is, when you need to change your yoke from excessive use, you don't have to mess with installing additional shims or a new crush sleeve in the diff, the companion flange stays put.

I have seamed axle tubes in my 8.8 (1993), but I understand all of them after 95 had the seamless tubes. Not sure how much strength you would gain, as they are the same thickness, but I would shoot for a later model none the less.

Pinion length will be very close between the 35 and the 8.8.

CRASH
 
CRASH said:
DO NOT change teh companion flange for a yoke. One of the coolest features of the 8.8 is the flange output, as it protects the U-joint, and sort of rolls along rocks rather than self destructing.

I was thinking the same thing. The flange does look as if it can provide some protection for the u-joint.

My next question is, can I get an adapter to use a driveshaft setup for use with a yoke for the 8.8? I remember at one point someone talking about one, but can't remember anything about it.

Anyone else running a 8.8, feel free to add your rants, raves, or suggestions.

--Matt
 
You can get flange adapters that will fit either 1310 or a 1330 U-joint. If you order a drive shaft for the 35, it will come with a 1310. You could go to the junkyard and got the stock flange adapter for the 8.8, the one I got for mine fits a 1330. You can get U-Joints that adapt between a 1310 and a 1330 from most parts houses. When you switch over to the 8.8 the flange adaptor will take up some of you drive shaft length so take this into account when you measure. You might have to get your drive shaft cut down, or order another new drive shaft and specify what size U-Joint you want in it.

The only other thing I can think of that was a problem with the installing 8.8 is the brake lines. The XJ brake line that came with the lift kit was not a direct connection at the axle side. To fix this I just got a new Explore left side brake line. It was only an inch shorter then the one I already had, and it connected right up to the fixed line on the XJ. But with the location of my mounting it allows the same amount of slack in the line.
 
Don't spend to much time looking for an 8.8 with solid axle tubes, the strength difference is close to nothing. I used to work for a pipe manufacturer, and was in charge of the operation of the welder. The pipe is made using a forged weld (no filler), and then normalized (an annealing process to relax the grain structure in the steel (returns the steel to close to it's original state, ie. not brittle)). Anyway, the solid tube is a touch stronger, but not enough to worry about. Sorry if I bored you :D
 
I'll hunt for the spicer part nunmber for the 1310 yoke when I get to work......I think you buy a 1310 yoke, not the conversion U-joint.......but that's just my opinion.

CRASH
 
1310 u-joint flange adapter - spicer pn 2-2-1379
spring perches - 3.25" (can use 3" and grind a little)
e brake cables from a zj - jeep PN 5 2008904 and 5 2008905
yoke bolts for 1310 adapter - ford pn N800594-5100
 
sarvermr, if that's the complete list of parts for the swap (sans the fab work) that's awesome. Thanks for the info.

--Matt
 
i haven't actually bolted mine up yet, so i don't know if its complete. there might be a few little things. that list takes care of the driveshaft, e brakes, and spring perches. you'll have to fab up some kind of shock mount. i made one like this:
suspension_lsm1.jpg

i'm not sure about the brakes either. i've read conflicting information and haven't actually hooked it up myself yet. hope this helps.
matthew
 
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