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What's next for a mild trail rig?

CRBMAN

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Iowa
I recently acquired a 2000 xj with 66k miles. It came with a RE 3.5 lift, a 1" TC drop and 31's. It does not have a SYE . The things needing attention are the motor mounts ,bump stops and some surface rust in spotty places underneath. It has stock front and rear bumpers and stock steering components. It drives very well with no apparent vibrations at any speed. The engine is also completely stock. I guess my question is where would you spend your money next other than the items needing immediate attention? Oh, and the interior is mint with a new stereo and speakers. This thing will only see mild to medium trails. Thoughts?
 
66K miles? Nice find.

My biggest concern would be the 0331 head. If you are not aware of the issues surrounding this head then do a search. It is prone to cracking. A TUPY head is generally the fix. Some folks get lucky and have no issues with the 0331 head, but it is a known problem.

If motor mounts are bad don't be surprised if it turns out you also have a cracked exhaust manifold. Be on the lookout for that.

As to what to modify next, I would say drive it until it shows you what you need to do next. Save your money until you know you need to do something, and then you will know you are making the right decision.
 
1) SYE. The Transfer Case drop is hard on the motor mounts and if you still have the low pinion D30 front axle the t-case drop increases the front pinion/drive line angles.
2) Skid plates.

3) Recovery points front and rear, and recovery gear, ( winches are highly optional if you adventure off-road with others ).

4) Rear locker if you have a Chry 8.25, 8.25 axle swap if you have a D35.
 
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Steering box brace and possibly a trackbar brace. Brake upgrade, I'd start with pads. Black Magic. I'd keep an eye on the head and coolant. Then change if necessary. I'd probably change the harmonic balancer. Or at least check the rubber elastomer for cracks. Paint a white stripe between the hub and outer ring. Check it periodically.
 
Tell me why it would make it worse on the low pinion front axle to lessen driveline angle by barely lowering transmission.

I used to think a winch was un needed since getting one ive since decided that its an essential tool i won't be without. Been thinking about doing a winch on my pickup to front bumper and a head ache rack rear winch
 
If you lower the t-case rear output, the front output is raised.

For mild to medium trails, and with an adult attitude driver, a winch IMO, is not essential, as long as there is a properly equipped group of 4x4's to assist should there be a mishap, or a stuck. That money could be put to more useful basic upgrades.

Equipment choices are personal, based upon ones needs, and terrain commonly traveled. I have been stuck plenty, but have never had a "Bubba, hold my beer and watch this" episode.
 
It raises the front output shaft in "degree's" and since the LP D30 axle is already set 2* lower than a HP D30 it just makes things worse faster.
 
So rear output goes to rear axle front out put to front axle.

If transmission is lowered 1" at the cross member the entire unit pivots on the motor mounts and lowers. Everything the same. Possible un measurable angle change due to pivoting in motor mounts

Tcase clocking would be the only way to actually change things to front vs rear axle.

Most xj on forums or driving around built however handy don't go off road so in that case a winch is not needed or a locker or lift or anything.

In that case only survival gear is needed for break downs or survival through plague in shit.
 
Seat time, a wheeling buddy, and gasoline.

Maybe front tow hooks, rock sliders, a rear hitch before the more medium trails.
 
1) SYE. The Transfer Case drop is hard on the motor mounts and if you still have the low pinion D30 front axle the t-case drop increases the front pinion angle.

2) Skid plates.

3) Recovery points front and rear, and recovery gear, ( winches are highly optional if you adventure off-road with others ).

4) Rear locker if you have a Chry 8.25, 8.25 axle swap if you have a D35.

What Tim here said.
 
Seat time, a wheeling buddy, and gasoline.

Maybe front tow hooks, rock sliders, a rear hitch before the more medium trails.

This. Absolutely this.

What Phil listed is all you need right now - Add the recovery points (and maybe sliders and a gas tank skid), get out on the trails, and learn what it can do with what it already has. I guarantee you'll be amazed at what it can conquer.

Driving experience and a good knowledge of your rig (how it handles, the sounds it makes as you flex the suspension, how each of the bits underneath sound/feel when you bang them into rocks :D) will take you a LONG way on the trails. Once you've gotten a good feel for how it works now and how you drive, you'll be in a better position to judge which mods are the best ones for YOU to do next.

Jeep mods are like tools - you don't always need the biggest ones. Even when you do, you can often get more of out of the big ones if you've learned to wield the smaller ones to maximum effect first...
 
Also a SYE. Any suggestions ? the SYE will probably be next.

Advance Adapter SYE works well for me, DO NOT BUY Rugged Ridge, Crown Automotive, or any other unknown / store brands.

Stick with JB or AA.
 
Jeep, winch welder what else is really needed

To drag things like digging buckets in out of the rain. Straighten bumpers. Pull fence posts out of the ground. Pull trees over.

Can you tell im pushing the winch
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Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 
So rear output goes to rear axle front out put to front axle.

If transmission is lowered 1" at the cross member the entire unit pivots on the motor mounts and lowers. Everything the same. Possible un measurable angle change due to pivoting in motor mounts

Tcase clocking would be the only way to actually change things to front vs rear axle.

...

This is correct. Dropping the tranny/tcase benefits both front and rear driveline angles. The angle change on the front driveshaft at the tcase due to the entire drivetrain rotating around the engine mounts is small and is more than offset by the tcase being lowered. And besides that, its on the double cardan side of the driveshaft, so its a non-issue anyhow. But the lowered tranny and tcase does affect ground clearance. If ground clearance is not expected to be an issue, I'd leave the tranny/tcase lowered. Then there is no need for an SYE for the rear drive shaft, at least for a 3.5" lift.

As far at the thread topic goes, I'd first change all fluids, thermostat, spark plugs, O2 sensors, and maybe the coil pack. If the valve cover gasket is leaking, I'd change that. I also recommend the pan and rear main seal gaskets. My 200 XJ only had 109K miles on it when I bought it, and its visually in near perfect condition, but when I had the rear main seal changed, we found that the old, hard seal had worn a groove in the sealing surface on the crank. It will forever leak at the rear main seal. I recommend to everyone to proactively change the rear main seal before that happens. Might also be a good idea to do the crank angle sensor as well.

After that, I'd agree that a winch, tow hooks front and rear, and some kind of limited slip or locking rear diff are good steps for off roading. And good tires. Could also consider installing a steering shaft brace.

One question I'm curious to hear from others is whether increasing the final drive ratio is worth the cost when running just 31" tires (which is what my XJ has as well).
 
If you lower the t-case rear output, the front output is raised.

For mild to medium trails, and with an adult attitude driver, a winch IMO, is not essential, as long as there is a properly equipped group of 4x4's to assist should there be a mishap, or a stuck. That money could be put to more useful basic upgrades.

Equipment choices are personal, based upon ones needs, and terrain commonly traveled. I have been stuck plenty, but have never had a "Bubba, hold my beer and watch this" episode.


Your definition of mild and someone else’s are different. I’ve used my winch and so have others at points in trail we were greatful to have them. It’s $300 for a harbor freight one and I one of the bet recovery tools. I’d consider it basic and I’m just starting out off roading.
 
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