• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Crossmember bolt spins (broken weld?) - how to remove??

T

Thetastycat

NAXJA Forum User
Location
TN
Hey all - trying to remove the tranny/TC crossmember. 3 bolts came out fine, one turns with difficulty and makes a metallic squeal. Searching seems to indicate the weld on the nut, buried inside the frame, broke loose. The bolt is still intact and is single-handedly holding up the crossmember; what's the best way for me to get it out?? I could grind the head off or sawzall it but then I'm stuck with a bolt shaft to figure out how to get off before I guess I retap bigger to give the crossmember 4 strong bolts...what do you all think is the best way to get it off??

Thanks a lot!!
 
They are nut-certs so I have purchased replacements before, cut the bolt a replace the inner cert.
 
Thanks for the reply, RCP - so you're saying cut the bolt off. I'm not quite sure what you mean by replace the inner cert - how would I even get to it?

Thanks a lot!
 
Specifically, which bolt is it? On my 88 I can access the front passenger bolt through an existing hole in the floor board. Easy for me since I don't have carpet.

Also, if you broke the weld nut, it would turn freely, no? Seems like if it's still tight and squealing you might still have a chance to get it out clean. Heat and penetrating oil would be my route if that's the case.
 
I bent up a chinesium box wrench I believe 9/16" to fit through a frame hole to fix mine and just cut off the old one and left it floating around in the rail (I still hear it after 13 years) and plan to fix it when I do my frame stiffeners.

Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk
 
Thanks for the replies, all - it's the forward bolt on the driver's side. I did put my hand under the carpet to feel for a nut and couldn't - shucks.

Yeah, it turns, but I almost have to use two hands to turn it, but I've probably turned the daggum thing 100 rotations by now and it's just not getting any looser. Heck. I don't even see any frame holes I could access it through.

Once I finish with the front/rear swaps I think I'll put the good three back in and take it to my local body shop so they can deal with it correctly!
 
Putting a jack under the knuckle and lifting until the stud grabbed worked for me. The one didn't take much, the other got a bit hairy...
 
Oops, wrong topic.

This isn't a repair to be taken lightly. Replacing a rivnut is not the easiest thing to do. My suggestion would be to cut a small hole in the floorboard and weld in a proper nut on the backside. You may also consider an aftermarket crossmember that uses additional bolts in front of the existing. You could get away without using this bolt.
 
Haha, ok - I was wondering which knuckle you could possibly be talking about. I'm going to leave this to a professional - if three can't hold it the 3/4 of a mile to the body shop then I should just set her on fire!
 
You won't be able to feel it just under the carpet. You're looking for an access hole with a plastic plug in it about an 1.5" in diameter. The nut is in the frame a few inches below the floorboard surface.

So you need to pull the carpet back and get a visual. Looks like I have an access hole on the drivers side too. If you do too, you should be able to pull that plug cover the hole and maybe see the bolt. My passenger side was that easy.
 
OK I FOUND IT!!!! Popped off the access and there it is. Now my problem is I CANNOT seem to find a socket the right size to turn it - anybody have any idea what size the nutsert might be??? Bolt head is 17mm....thank you!!!!
 
Alright, have a look at this:

IqYIjxZ.jpg


Sorry it's such a crap pic - it is SUPER AWKWARD in there, but at least I can see somewhat thanks to a GAPING HOLE in what's left of the floorboard.

SO - what it looks like to me is that the nutsert is still there, and maybe someone already had trouble with it, because there is what looks to be a regular nut right flush up against it. Trouble is I can't seem to get any socket to go down around that nut - tried about everything. Seems like the nutsert right next to it is preventing the socket from fitting. Of course it's awkward as heck, holding up the carpet, trying to get a light in there, etc.

I tried briefly to whack what I assume is the nutsert with a screwdriver/hammer to get it far enough away, but it didn't want to move and the whole thing is so rusty I didn't want to get ridiculous.

For the record, it is the nut (with the bolt still through it) that rotates when I turn the bolt head below.

What do you all think of this disaster?
 
Cut the bolt head off, push the remainder through. Drop a new bolt with a lockwasher under the head down from inside and use a nut on the outside. If you have a welder, spot weld the bolt in place instead of using a lock washer.
 
There's some good advice! Think I'll do exactly that. Still thinking about tapping the others bigger - this crossmember has a lot of weight on it and I'm really not thrilled with how this looks right now...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Anak
How to Slot the CPS
Replies
2
Views
104
Rob Mayercik
R
X
being ready for the expected unexpected (hardware for broken/rusted susp components)
2
Replies
24
Views
7K
Xjin85
X
M
New to my XJ & wrenching - How to choose parts and what to prioritize?!
2
Replies
28
Views
4K
flyin_ryan
F
K
Shop rebuilt front differential failed on first test drive, trying to figure out why?
Replies
4
Views
3K
xcm
xcm
B
Rock Rail Instal, Position and to weld or bolt the legs?
Replies
3
Views
2K
srb531
S
Back
Top