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2001 xj no start/locks going crazy

jeepermanagain

NAXJA Forum User
Location
oklahoma
the other day i stopped to get gas, upon restarting heard a loud click, then nothing. seemed completely dead. pushed it out of the way and tried again, still nothing. tried different shifter positions still dead. i can hear the fuel pump come on every time. decided to wait until the wife got off to try and get it home. walked up to the c-store, got a drink, went back to the jeep, and it fired right up. drove it home, turned it off and no start again. tried it several times and gave up. all of a sudden my door locks started actuating on and off on their own with the key off. after several seconds they stopped. went into the house and came out a few hours later and it starts right up. let it sit a few days and it still starts but remote wont lock or unlock doors. with it running, door locks will unlock by door button but wont lock. turn engine off and door button locks and unlocks doors but remote still doesnt work. i have a gladiator but my old xj is my daily driver, 195,000 miles on it and still doesnt leak oil lol. gotta have my trusty xj. never a problem before. it is 4.0 auto. anyone ever had this combination of issues or have any ideas?
 
Likely they are unrelated issues.

Clicking and not starting is a connectivity issue.

Door locks going nuts is a short circuit, typically in the drivers door wiring.

A short circuit can prevent starting.


Clicking and not starting is usually a low voltage issue from:

• dirty, corroded, damaged, or loose wire connections or battery terminals
• internally corroded battery wires
• a short circuit or parasitic drain
• a failing battery
• a failing alternator
• leaving the lights on
 
Perform routine maintenance of the start and charge systems. Remove, clean, and firmly reconnect all the wires and cables to the battery, starter, and alternator. Look for corroded or damaged cables or connectors and replace as needed. Copper wires should be copper color, not black or green. Battery terminals and battery wire connectors should bright silver, not dull gray to blackish and corroded. Do the same for the grounding wires from the starter to engine block, the ground wires at the coil, and the ground wires from the battery and engine to the Jeep's frame/body. You must remove, wire brush, and clean until shiny the cable/wire ends and whatever they bolt onto.
 
Jeeps do not tolerate low voltage, bad wire connections, or poor grounds.
 
 
Place your DVOM (Digital Volt Ohm Multi-Meter) on the 20 volt scale. First check battery voltage by placing your multi-meter's positive lead on the battery's positive post ( the actual post, not the clamp ) and the negative lead on the negative post. You need a minimum of 12 volts to continue testing. Next, leave your meter connected and take a reading while the engine is cranking. Record this voltage reading. Now connect your positive lead to the battery terminal stud on the starter and the negative lead to the starter housing. Again, crank the engine and record the voltage reading. If the voltage reading at the starter is not within 1 volt of battery voltage then you have excessive voltage drop in the starter circuit.
 
Typical voltage drop maximums:
• starter circuit (including starter solenoid) = 0.60 volt
• battery post to battery terminal end = zero volts
• battery main cable (measured end to end) 0.20 volt
• starter solenoid = 0.20 volt
• battery negative post to alternator metal frame = 0.20 volt
• negative main cable to engine block = 0.20 volt
• negative battery post to starter metal frame = 0.30
• battery positive post to alternator b+stud = 0.5 volt with maximum charging load applied (all accessories turned on)
 
  
Have your helper turn the ignition key to START while you tap gently on the starter with a hammer. If the engine starts, you probably need a new starter.
 
Test the output at the alternator with your volts/ohms multi-meter. You should be measuring 13.8-14.4 volts. Have the battery, starter, and the alternator Load Tested for proper function in a test machine that applies a simulated work load. Handheld testers are inaccurate and will often pass faulty parts.
 
Last edited:
Likely they are unrelated issues.

Clicking and not starting is a connectivity issue.

Door locks going nuts is a short circuit, typically in the drivers door wiring.

A short circuit can prevent starting.


Clicking and not starting is usually a low voltage issue from:

• dirty, corroded, damaged, or loose wire connections or battery terminals
• internally corroded battery wires
• a short circuit or parasitic drain
• a failing battery
• a failing alternator
• leaving the lights on
 
Perform routine maintenance of the start and charge systems. Remove, clean, and firmly reconnect all the wires and cables to the battery, starter, and alternator. Look for corroded or damaged cables or connectors and replace as needed. Copper wires should be copper color, not black or green. Battery terminals and battery wire connectors should bright silver, not dull gray to blackish and corroded. Do the same for the grounding wires from the starter to engine block, the ground wires at the coil, and the ground wires from the battery and engine to the Jeep's frame/body. You must remove, wire brush, and clean until shiny the cable/wire ends and whatever they bolt onto.
 
Jeeps do not tolerate low voltage, bad wire connections, or poor grounds.
 
 
Place your DVOM (Digital Volt Ohm Multi-Meter) on the 20 volt scale. First check battery voltage by placing your multi-meter's positive lead on the battery's positive post ( the actual post, not the clamp ) and the negative lead on the negative post. You need a minimum of 12 volts to continue testing. Next, leave your meter connected and take a reading while the engine is cranking. Record this voltage reading. Now connect your positive lead to the battery terminal stud on the starter and the negative lead to the starter housing. Again, crank the engine and record the voltage reading. If the voltage reading at the starter is not within 1 volt of battery voltage then you have excessive voltage drop in the starter circuit.
 
Typical voltage drop maximums:
• starter circuit (including starter solenoid) = 0.60 volt
• battery post to battery terminal end = zero volts
• battery main cable (measured end to end) 0.20 volt
• starter solenoid = 0.20 volt
• battery negative post to alternator metal frame = 0.20 volt
• negative main cable to engine block = 0.20 volt
• negative battery post to starter metal frame = 0.30
• battery positive post to alternator b+stud = 0.5 volt with maximum charging load applied (all accessories turned on)
 
  
Have your helper turn the ignition key to START while you tap gently on the starter with a hammer. If the engine starts, you probably need a new starter.
 
Test the output at the alternator with your volts/ohms multi-meter. You should be measuring 13.8-14.4 volts. Have the battery, starter, and the alternator Load Tested for proper function in a test machine that applies a simulated work load. Handheld testers are inaccurate and will often pass faulty parts.
not sure what you mean by "clicking". when it doesnt start, there is no clicking, just silence.... turn the key, no noise of any kind, just like it has no power at all. thanks for your responce
 
the other day i stopped to get gas, upon restarting heard a loud click, then nothing. seemed completely dead. ......

Click ? Click or no click, if there is a no-start check the connections etc. Other possible suspects are the NSS and the igntion switch.
 
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