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CPS Relocation Kit...

L4V

NAXJA Forum User
Location
CA
Hi all,

Noob here, 2nd post. Super forum, I must say. 'Been reading it for weeks.
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The rig: '92 XJ, 4.0L, 5 spd, 4WD, dead stock, super clean, etc.
'Bought from my neighbor 8 weeks ago...my first Jeep and love it.
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'Got a Q on this whole CPS R & R deal.
My CPS seems to be working fine, but crawling under, around, over, and through on a rainy/cold night to change this 'mutha doesn't sound like a good time to me.
'Just bought an all metal genuine Modine 2 row (NAPA- $179) to replace the stock (and working) Veleo 2 row w/plastic tanks. 'Figured that since I'll be in there, I would R & R the harmonic damper as well - it's just barely noticeably wiggly.
Did my due diligent searching for info relative to my Q - no find...so here I am.
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'Been thinking of going with CPS relocation kit as a way to avoid having to slave around w/the stock CPS location.
I'm willing to pay the bucks for the relocation kit to avoid said dread.
Anyone do this mod based on the same motive?
What y'all think of this?
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Oh yeah, thought I might even pre-empt the hassle of changing the CPS on that rainy/cold night by creating an access hole from inside - making a larger cover for the hole and securing it with Dzus fasteners.
I'm one of those who likes to simplify matters.
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Thanks for any feedback, etc.
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Merry Christmas! (and don't be afraid to say it)
 
A couple things that can be done to simplify CPS changing...

Get 2-3' worth of extensions - best if you can do it in one piece, like I did. Check around, and look at those "oddball" tool shops while you're about it.

Get a 7/16" or 11m/m (same size) socket with the inbuilt universal joint - it really does make it simpler. Check to make sure it will fit your bolts before you get it - it should.

Check around some more - I've posted a picture of how I "notch" the CPS bracket to simplify changing the thing. Once I change it the first time, I don't even pull out bolts anymore - I loosen them a few turns and that's it. If you can't find the pics I posted here, let me know. I notch the bracket with a Dremel and a cut-off wheel, and it's five minutes well spent.

I've got a full CPS change down to well under 10 minutes - five, if luck is with me that day. Although, I'd like to hear of your access panel idea, and I'd appreciate a writeup and pics if you actually do it...

5-90
 
Thanks for your quick reply, 5-90.
I've read many - if not all - of your posts over the past umpteen years, and visited your web site.
Good info from you.
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Thing is, with the info out there about "new" OEM harmonic dampers needing more work to install, plus James at Jeepers/Creepers suggesting that I go w/OEM damper, I'm more inclined to go w/the damper that comes w/the relocation kit. 'Know what I mean? - or am I off base here?
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Also, I searched my fanny off looking for your pic of your CPS bracket mod - no find. But no prob. for me because I can do it fine - just needed your idea as a springboard.
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Now that I'm thinking here about this, I guess my main deal here is not so much the CPS dread (due to your hot tip on notching bracket), but just not wanting to dick around with excessive harmonic damper R & R, pulling cover, as well as being a tad reluctant about aftermarket dampers. etc.
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Sorry for taking up time/bandwidth trying to sort out my head.
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Best,
 
L4V said:
Thanks for your quick reply, 5-90.
I've read many - if not all - of your posts over the past umpteen years, and visited your web site.
Good info from you.

I second that. 5-90 is a good mentor. This wannabe-mechanic sure appreciates his input. The shade tree sure is cooler with his advice.

I've never had that much trouble with the CPS even with just basic tools. Although I can say that my body has been in some very yoga-like positions while doing it!
 
OK - I figured out where I stashed it online.

Check out my JeepPower group (groups.yahoo.com/group/JeepPower), "Photos" section, and see the first pic. It's not terribly good, but you should get the idea from it. Membership is free - it's an information repository and a place where I can post information about my books, supplemental files, and such.

What you'll be doing, essentially, is allowing the lower hole to slip onto the bolt shank, and then the upper bolt hole will "rotate" into place (sorry, I can't think of a better way to put it right now.)

So, to remove the notched CPS, you just loosen both bolts a bit, go topside, and gently pull on the wiring for the sensor - it comes right off. Takes a touch more to go on (but it's quite doable.)

I've written HESCO about their kit - I'd be more impressed with it if it came with a "Fluidampr" - style unit, or something a little more permanent (which I'd honestly like to see anyhow.)

I'll have to take a pic one of these days of myself actually DOING the job - just to show the tools in place, and to see how I can get it done quickly. I'd take a video, but that would make the job take twice as long...

5-90
 
Warning: Thread strip...
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Ain't envy a b!tch, though! :)
'Not sure where you're located in the "USA", but in the SF Bay Area, on the peninsula, they call it "the ability to pay." So we get spanked on parts prices, it seems.
Note to self: Sell and get outa Kalifornia.
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After reading tons on cooling/radiators, 2 row this, 3 row that, aluminum or otherwise, Transpro, Modine, ProAlliance, GDI, CSF, ABC, XYZ, etc., and whether or not many all metal 2 row Modines exist on the planet anymore, I bit the bullet and snagged the only one I could find locally.
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Called San Carlos Radiator...owner said he could get the genuine 2 row metal Modine I was after for $129. Next day it came in...Modine/ProAlliance plastic-tanked - made in China. Oh well, eh?
 
LV4, I a bit confused by your post. Do you know that the CPS is on the opposite end of the engine as the harmonic ballancer?
 
Holley makes one for the 4.2L wrangler carter > Throttle body FI kit, mopar also has one as part of their MPI kit, it mounts behind the harmonic balancer.. I don't know the specs so I don't know if it throws the right volts or not...
 
PaulJ said:
LV4, I a bit confused by your post. Do you know that the CPS is on the opposite end of the engine as the harmonic ballancer?

In OEMR trim, that is true. However, HESCO (and maybe others!) make a "relocation" kit with a replacement milled damper, and the CPS is mounted at the front of the engine, and "reads" the milled notches in the damper the same way it "reads" the flywheel.

The reson I write to HESCO is that they are still using the iron/elastomer/iron damper (OEM style,) and "damper walk" could cause the engine to not run. While this would be a good safety feature, I think it would be more useful to offer the kit with an enclosed inertia ring in a dampening fluid - just like Fluidampr and Fisher Concepts. I'm sure HESCO can find a way to do it - I'd like to see it, and I think it would make their kit far more useful to the owner as well (it's a "forever" damper - but you just can't make a "forever" sensor, so that's still at issue. However, the reduced operating temperature from having the sensor up front and in the open air - away from the exhuast - has only got to help!)

5-90
 
PaulJ said:
LV4, I a bit confused by your post. Do you know that the CPS is on the opposite end of the engine as the harmonic ballancer?
:) Yep, I know that.
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Allow me to start over...since I clearly posted prior to having my head clear. Christmas hooch and all, ya know.
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1) 'Thought I'd change out the CPS prior to it failing at some inopportune time.
'Been reading about the ins/outs of changing it. But now I'm more willing to do what it takes to get the existing CPS out, and replacing it with the bracket mod. Fine on that.
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2) Been eye-balling the harmonic balancer (h/b) ... it's running a bit less than true...but not migrating fore/aft.
I figured that since I was going to replace the radiator, I'd also replace the harmonic balancer.
A few Jeeps folks have suggested I NOT go w/aftermarket h/b. James at Jeepers/Creepers was one of them.
Sounds good to me, since I'm not a fan of possibly having to go back in and replace a failing aftermarket part in a few months.
However, 'been reading about new OEM h/b's as needing to remove timing chain cover, etc. Called a few Jeep dealers and sure enough, part includes instructions on having to remove the oil slinger on the crank timing chain gear, replace seal, and get a longer crankshaft bolt.
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3) Since I plan to replace both the CPS and the h/b, I thought, "Why not get the relocation kit and take care of both these tasks?"
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Hope I'm more clear. My apologies.
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So I guess I was posting here to see what the feedback was on my idea.
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I did call Gino at Advanced Adapters two weeks ago re: their kit. $25 off normal price. And extending the CPS harness from the front to the back is no problem for me.
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Best,
 
No aftermarket? Why? I've got, I think, three Pioneer dampers in service now - with anywhere from three months to five years on them... Cost me about half as much as getting an OEMR part at the dealership - I avoid them wherever possible.

You don't need to pull the front cover to simply change the damper - although I'm not sure about the CPS relocation kit. I never have - and I usually change the front seal when I change the damper (just in case.)

I might have to look into the AA kit - see if there's something I'm missing, or something else I should write about...

5-90
 
I cut an access hole to replace the CPS on my old 89 a few years back. I used a drill and hacksaw blade to cut a 3-sided 'flap' to bend over. It made the CPS changeover a snap. After the job was done, I bent the flap back over and sealed the gaps with body putty. (Similiar to children's play dough.)

A better solution would be to use a hole saw to cut the access hole, and use a plastic or rubber plug to seal it. I plan to do this on my 'new' 96 this summer. This way you don't even have to get under the vehicle to change the CPS; but you still have to go through some contortions working under the dash.....
 
5-90 said:
You don't need to pull the front cover to simply change the damper - 5-90
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5-90...
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Pulling the front cover is related to the newer OEM h/b's, not aftermarket h/b's.
I've read about this on a few Jeep sites and confirmed w/dealers.
Now, if one can locate an old OEM h/b, then that will not need the extra work.
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"martin" mentioned this in a thread back in March, '04. Link:
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http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=21505
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Re: new OEM h/b's...same info here:
"Newer Mopar Harmonic Balancers Not the Same As Older Units"
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http://www.bc4x4.com/faqs/yj.cfm?cat=5&faqid=147#faqtop
 
Last edited:
montanaman said:
Just to let you know ... you can get an all-metal 3-row open-system heavy duty rad from radiatorbarn.com for $152.
I know, thanks.
Called them two weeks ago - spoke with "Joseph" about their 2 & 3 rows.
Good fellow...family-owned company, free shipping, etc.
I decided to remain w/2 row based on what I have been reading. If I hadn't found a Modine, I would have done business with RadBarn.
Also contacted Doug @ DPG Offroad.
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Merry Christmas, all.
Be safe.
 
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