replacing fuel tank o-ring - other methods to solve fuel tank leak

Hello,

I did a search on the keywords in the title of this post. Planning to replace a leaky oring with a new OEM o-ring.

Some background: I had trouble getting a new fuel pump assembly to fit when I replaced it, even though it was suppose to be OEM for our '89 Cherokee. Had to snip off some of the excess plastic material that serves as a stop for the fuel sender float arm in order to get it through the fuel tank hole. Then, when I put the fuel tank o-ring between the lock ring and the new fuel pump assembly flange it didn't seem to fit quite right. I took a chance and used that o-ring anyway. Now, after filling the tank, it leaks from around the lock ring a very small amount -- but noticeable with gas smell and very small spot on the driveway..

So, I've ordered a new OEM o-ring and hope it will fit better than the one that came with the pump/sender assembly.

My first question: is it possible to install the new o-ring without removing the fuel pump/sender assembly from the tank?

Two of the posts I found on the subject:

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=54156&highlight=replacing+fuel+tank+o-ring

and

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=31355&highlight=replacing+fuel+tank+o-ring

In the former post long-time Member Matthew_Currie says "... If all you're replacing is the O-ring, you can probably get the old one off and the new one in without actually removing the sender. ..."

Has anyone tried this? Can you get the o-ring over the lock ring without ruining the o-ring? I'm thinking this would eliminate the difficulty of trying to fit the unit back into the small hole in the bottom of the tank. Downside, of course, is that I'd have to disconnect and pinch off outlet and return fuel hoses and disconnect electrical connection.

In the latter post sage Forum Addict old_man says "... I guess I'm going to get some sealer that will hold up to gas and goop it before I put it back together. I may get a new circular retainer from the dealer and see if it helps any...."

Has anyone actually tried using a sealer in addition to (or instead of) the OEM o-ring with success? What sealer works? Silicone? Old_man, did you ever try this approach?

And has anyone replaced the retainer and found that that replacement alone stopped the fuel tank from leaking?

Getting OEM o-ring from MoparStore.com:
Part #5300 0575 Item #53000575 - $3.75 each
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=searchCatalogOEM&siteid=214272

Got fuel pump from theautopartsstore.com:
AIRTEX AUTO DIV Part #E7091S FUEL PUMP, ELECTRIC $118.30 (w/ discount)
Item: http://replacement.autopartswarehou...R-4WD-004&category=All&part=Fuel Pump&dp=true
Image: http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/images/domestic/images/airtex/AFE7091S.jpg

Any insights or advice would be greatly appreciated. Rick


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Rick and Kate Johnson | Venice Ranch
69854 Crane Buchanan Rd | http://www.zigzagbox.com/users/rickoregon/venice/
Burns, Oregon 97720 USA | 1-541-493-2212 (voice or fax - day/night)

One mine the flange was rusted out. Check it carefully for this. Mine was obvious though. Once I disturbed it a big chunk fell off the flange. The tank surface was also in bad shape. I was replacing the tank at the time though due to introducing it to to many large rocks.

I got a good one from a member here that didn't live int the rust belt.

Off hand I don't know of any sealers that stand up to gasoline very well. The o-ring fits pretty tight and it helps to have the tool made for installing the lock ring to get it in even, though I was able to drive it in with a brass punch.

Andy

I used seal-all to hold the o ring in place to the collar of the tank and then a little more on the sender, slapped it all together, holding since summertime. Do not use the square cut o rings they are crap. Also make sure your leak isn't coming from where the fuel line goes through the plate on the sender, I had this problem as well,I think from having the unit in and out so many times that it broke the solder/weld. I sealed it up with 5 minute epoxy as it is fuel resistant. Good luck.

Is the pump assembly seated correctly? It took me a good half hour to get my pump assy. back in. There is a little grommet on the end of one of the feed lines that fits in a hole in the bottom of the collector pan type thing in the tank. It took me several tries to get it in correctly, and wouldn't fit flush on the tank until it was installed the right way. If you didn't drop the tank, this would have been even more difficult.

Just what I experienced. Hope it helps.