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Shell Oil

iBran

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Minneapolis, MN
Anyone using Shell oil in their 4.0L? Costco has a case for $16... seems like a reasonable price.

I need to find cheaper oil now that Valvoline isn't giving MaxLife away anymore :(
 
Last i knew Shell bought out Pennzoil a few years back. Depends on what your looking for. I've run Mobil 1 10-30 for 3 years now. I'm going to switch to regular oil next oil change. Getting too expensive.
 
iBran said:
Anyone using Shell oil in their 4.0L? Costco has a case for $16... seems like a reasonable price.

I need to find cheaper oil now that Valvoline isn't giving MaxLife away anymore :(

I use Valvoline or nothing. I was given as a door prize a case of Penzoil, I told them to keep it. The only time I have swayed from that is when I bought oil under the Super Americia label, which is also made by the Ashland Oil Company, and is slightly cheaper.
,Ron
 
If Shell is really Penzoil, I would try elsewhere. Penzoil is refined differently and an engine that has run Penzoil for any length of time will have an unbelievable amount of sludge. Just ask anyone who rebuilds motors. Valvoline is different and leaves the internals sludge free. I particularly like their DuraBlend. It is a synthetic blend and runs about $2.29 a quart. You get the good features of a synthetic without all the cost.
 
I think i'll try that myself next time. Sure beats $5 a quart (Mobil 1).
 
Penzoil and Quakerstate are from the same drum. Shell is what the Texaco formula 3 used to be.Check the labels ,Its Formula Shell and just Havoline oil.
I switched to the Shell oil when my local Quick lube changed after the buyout.I run the 15-40 Shell Rotella oil in warm weather and the 10-30 Formula Shell in winter.224 K and still clean
Wayne
 
Wayne Sihler said:
Penzoil and Quakerstate are from the same drum. Shell is what the Texaco formula 3 used to be.Check the labels ,Its Formula Shell and just Havoline oil.
I switched to the Shell oil when my local Quick lube changed after the buyout.I run the 15-40 Shell Rotella oil in warm weather and the 10-30 Formula Shell in winter.224 K and still clean
Wayne
Thanks. Heh, I thought Rotella was only for diesels :tard:
Costco had Pennzoil, too, but yeah.. I've heard from a variety of people to stay away from that stuff!
 
Wayne Sihler said:
Penzoil and Quakerstate are from the same drum. Shell is what the Texaco formula 3 used to be.Check the labels ,Its Formula Shell and just Havoline oil.
I switched to the Shell oil when my local Quick lube changed after the buyout.I run the 15-40 Shell Rotella oil in warm weather and the 10-30 Formula Shell in winter.224 K and still clean
Wayne

This is correct. Shell oil is nothing more than Havoline. 76 brand oil is really Kendall, Napa brand is really Valvoline, and Chevron is also Havoline.
 
iBran said:
Thanks. Heh, I thought Rotella was only for diesels :tard:
Costco had Pennzoil, too, but yeah.. I've heard from a variety of people to stay away from that stuff!

Yes it is(Rotella)the extra additives can only help.I saw the Shell oil last time I was in Costco,but already had a cart full of other stuff.
Wayne
 
90Pioneer said:
and Chevron is also Havoline.

They are indeed, if you go to ChevronTexaco and read the data sheets on these oils, they spec precisely the same.

While you're there, read a little on the "isodewaxing" process that they use, which removes most of the parrafins from the base stock. According to some of what I've read, dissolved parrafins are responsible for a lot of sludge generation; under really high heat, they bond with combustion byproducts, and this resulting stuff gels into sludge. If the parrafins (or the byproducts, or the heat) are not there, then this can't happen so easily.

Jeeps aren't typically bad sludgers, but I still like the idea. I'm using Havoline as break-in oil for our new reman, may switch to a blend or full synthetic after the rings get a chance to seat.

Tom is absolutely right about the DuraBlend being an affordable compromise; I've used it and it works well. Remember, one of the best features of a synthetic is it's viscosity stability over temperature. A blend gives you a lot of this advantage at a reasonable price.
 
I have been using Chevron Delo 15w-40 for some time now. My Jeep sounds like a diesel and I have got comments "hey did you swap a diesel in there" :wierd: so I just decided it was asking for diesel lube.

I go by the same logic, the extra additives are good. I recently pulled the valve cover, 150K miles. My valvetrain looked shiny and new. I also figure that since they are taking the anti-friction additives out of oil, I better put the chevron in because its advertised (for diesels) "new anti-wear fomula".

I am also thinking about what oil to use when and if I were to rebuild the motor. Want to go synthetic but also cheap.

I want to know if the Shell Rotella T synthetic is any good (its cheap) ?
 
I used to race bikes, I ran each kind of oil for one race, tore down motor.
When I tried Pennsoil it was the worst of all,started to build sludge in one race. With valvoline it looked the same as it did when I put it together. The candle wax that they put in pennsoil sucks.
Anyway, just trying to let you what happened when I used it. Good Luck
 
Many guys/gals are running CI rated oil in bikes.I run it in my Ducati and Triumph. One is wet clutch the other is dry. Bikes kill oil, Diesel oils are CI/CH-4 etc rated such as Delo,Rotella, Delvac. Delvac 1 5/40 is one of the ONLY true 100% synthetic oils along with Mobil,Motul and Redline. Castrol shitec is highly refined dino oil. This was setteled in a court case where Mobil sued Castrol claming their oil was synthetic and its not. Mobil lost. This allowed for companies to call dino oils synthetic. do some research, theres lots to read. The downside of conventional diesel oils are they are 15/40. If you use synthetic it comes in 5/40 flavor. FYI 15/40 is used because 10/40 is one of the short lived viscosities. You will never see anyone running something like Castrol Bendover hard 20/50 in a industrial gas/diesel engine cause it wont hold up. Go to Walmart and get some Delvac 1 or Rotella 5/40 synthetic and be done with it. Regarding Penzoil... Why do you think Chevy reccomends it? plugs up oil leaks with its wax base. Just my .02 worth
 
I run synthetics in my vehicles. Although they cost more, I usually run the 5K-10K. It depends if the vehicle is in warranty. I try not to run conventional oi over 3K. Still, conventional oil of today is very good. I like Havoline and Valvoline. I hear right now Havoline is the best in conventional oil. If you run mostly highway miles, then you can extend your oil changes. Probably best to get an oil analysis though. I've used Rotella in my Comanche. The local garage siad it was better than other oil and 4K on the changes. Also get a good filter, NAPA Gold, Purolator Pure One, Baldwin and WIX are good. The Mobil 1 is suppose to be the best, but expensive at $10.
Tom
 
Dyna: So are you saying Rotella T synthetic (not basic Rotella I guess) is good? You mention that and Delvac 1 synthetic at the end of your post but in the beginning don't list Rot T with the other synthetics... Around here the stores have raised the price of dino oil to about $3.00/qt with the exception of Napa brand at $1.40/qt so the price difference isin't what it used to be.

Whats wrong with using a 15w40 oil? That sound like a fine viscosity for a well broken in (150K), loose clearance motor like my 4.0 thats opperated almost exclusively in a warm climate.

Yea, I don't use penzoil or castrol oils, have heard a lot of mechanics say the same thing about penzoil sludge plus castrol's shady marketing. Have used only Valvoline, Napa (made by valvoline) and Chevron for a long time. We sell a lot of Castrol 20w50 to people with beat up cars it probably plugs the leaks.

I use the Napa gold filter. I sell a lot of oil and filters, unbelieveable how many people are more convinced by the Fram marketing that its a better filter than by the parts guys experience based recommendations.
 
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