Crank/no start...then started but wanted to die...

1999 Sport 4.0, Auto trans.

New Crank Position Sensor (Mopar).

New Plugs/wires/distributor cap/rotor/coil.

Made the mistake of setting TDC to the exhaust stroke on cyl #1 when I pulled the distributor to drill out the broken cap screw. So I did get a crank/no start from that. On the advice of someone on another board, I swapped the ignition wires 180 degrees (1 over to 6, etc.)...and it started fine twice. Daughter drove it the next day...started fine, drove great (the hesitation from 4 to 3 shifting was gone...still not sure why).

Then yesterday morning...she calls and says it won't start...crank/no start. She tried it twice...then took another car.

After working on another car (I got home after 7pm...got to the Cherokee around 8:30pm), I decide to check it out. Pop the hood...make sure the coil wire was fine (it was). Crank it...no start. Turn the key (buckled belt, lights off, door shut) so I can hear the fuel pump run on turning the key...it did twice. Check the schrader valve on the fuel rail to ensure it's getting pressure...I get a spurt.

Try one more time...catches...then it acts like it wants to die (drops to around 500rpms before I push on the gas...hold it at 2k RPMS for a few minutes (call my Daughter to come move the other car so I can move the Cherokee up near the garage to work on it)...let off the gas, it's idling fine.

She says 'there's a 1/4 tank of gas in there' (but it's pretty damn close to 1/8th tank)...can low fuel cause an issue like that?

If the check valve is weak/not working...how long does it take to get the gas back to the engine?

Thanks for any ideas!

Should have added:

The Crank sensor went in 2 or 3 weeks ago (along with a new battery). Put the new tune-up parts in on Sunday PM (and Sunday evening changed the wires around). Monday it drove perfectly fine...yesterday was the crank/no start issue.

I would recommend going back through and setting the TDC to the intake stroke and swapping your wires back around. If it was working before you did this, you might as well reverse it and see if that fixes the issue. That's what I would do.

Yeah, go back and index the dist properly.

If the distributor index is not the root cause of the symptoms, suspect low battery voltage. If the check valve is leaky, priming the fuel pump with the ignition key or attempting to start 2-3 times refills the fuel lines and fuel rail.


For 1996+ Jeeps, the OBD-II engine computer (ECU/PCM) re-boots, and the idle settings are deleted, when you: (1) let the battery run down by leaving the lights or radio on, (2) disconnect the battery for an extended period of time, (3) when the battery goes bad and needs replacing, (4) when the alternator is not properly charging the battery, (5) or when poor battery connections result in a voltage drop at the PCM or poor battery charging. Loose, corroded, or damaged battery cables or ground wires may also cause or contribute to the problem. A faulty Coolant Temperature Sensor may also cause similar symptoms. Testing of the CTS is recommended as part of the diagnostics. A poor ground at the ignition coil can also cause similar symptoms.
　
The reboot symptoms are: (1) having difficulties starting the engine without depressing the gas pedal, and (2) the engine will have a low idle and often will stall unless you keep your foot on the gas pedal. (3) The ECU will relearn the idle settings after a short period of driving and the engine will sometimes start and idle normally.

Thanks for the replies..just got home from work and it started fine after putting 5 gal gas in (before trying anything). I'll check the other stuff...Alternator and battery are strong.

Might be a split in the rubber hose going from the fuel pump
to the hard line in the gas tank...?

Just throwing out ideas.