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Finalizing WJ Knuckle Swap Plan

Price doesn't seem that bad considering almost half is your steering choice (not that that's bad). Does that track bar kit have a new bracket? Since you'll have to move it up?
 
Nice job of assembling a parts list, with links and all. Well done.

The left and right hand taps to chase the threads after welding in the tube adapter bungs might be worth considering. Rumor has it that welding those in might be detrimental to the condition of the threads.

Drill bit for the knuckles to accommodate the new steering hardware?

Fresh set of bolts for the unit bearings? I have seen some mention of those being designed for single use, but it doesn't seem that most folks fret over those.

Any plans for connecting a steering stabilizer? This is one of those details I have not seen well covered in a WJ brake conversion.

I assume you are already running 16" or larger wheels.

Those are the only things I can think of that might bear considering if you haven't already considered them.
 
I noticed you listed a quantity of "2" for brake pads. Usually they are sold in sets of four pads, to cover both front wheels. Wouldn't you only need one set instead of two?

Also, I would be careful about which bearing hubs you select. I would go with a name brand like Timken, SKF, or Moog ... available on Rock Auto.
 
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I find the thought of junkyard calipers frightening. I'd also look for better quality components when it comes to bearings and such. Pay a little more up front and you won't have to pay again for a long time.

With heim joints on the tie rod you're going to have a really hard time with clearance. The steering arms on the WJ knuckles are rather short, which is why the SFR kit uses offset tie rod ends.

FYI, there are a couple pieces on your list there that you can get cheaper from other sources....like me ;) http://www.stinkyfab.com/jeep-steering-and-brake-kit.html
 
Junkyard parts are fine if the system is clean and sealed when pulled. Heck my zj rear disc setup came from a yard and I have no clue how long they were off. Bled them good and now they have well over 100k very abused miles and like 3 or so sets of pads through them and they still work great, and they are the early phenolic piston style.
 
It's only money, right? :p

Thanks. Just Empty Every Pocket.

Drill bit for the knuckles to accommodate the new steering hardware?
You have given me an idea, I am going to add a tools sheet.

Any plans for connecting a steering stabilizer? This is one of those details I have not seen well covered in a WJ brake conversion.
I'm going to run it without for now. Like StinkyFab said, it may not be needed.

I noticed you listed a quantity of "2" for brake pads. Usually they are sold in sets of four pads, to cover both front wheels. Wouldn't you only need one set instead of two?

Excellent. That brings my cost down $40!


Also, I would be careful about which bearing hubs you select. I would go with a name brand like Timken, SKF, or Moog ... available on Rock Auto.

I'd also look for better quality components when it comes to bearings and such.

Okay, okay. I saw the bearings and they were rated good on Amazon (granted with a small sample size), so I put them on the list. I will go with the better units.

FYI, there are a couple pieces on your list there that you can get cheaper from other sources....like me ;) http://www.stinkyfab.com/jeep-steering-and-brake-kit.html

Sweet, I will check it out. Especially since you gave good advice for the upgrade first, then mentioned your site!
 
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So, if you all could not figure it out, I attempt to respond to the good (and sometimes bad) input given when I ask a question. It is only fair that if you are helping me out that I acknowledge your assistance. The wheel and diff cover clearance issue is a topic that I was wrestling with for a long time before putting the list together, so it warrants further discussion.

I assume you are already running 16" or larger wheels.

With heim joints on the tie rod you're going to have a really hard time with clearance. The steering arms on the WJ knuckles are rather short, which is why the SFR kit uses offset tie rod ends.

Originally I saw martinbuilt on YouTube was running Hiems with 15" steels. I have the same wheels, so I thought I could give it a shot. There was one key difference, his tie rod is bent. :doh: I think my options are:

1. Use a bent tie rod with straight hiems and keep 15" wheels
2. Use a straight tie rod with off-set TREs and get 16" or 17" wheels
3. Use a straight tie rod with off-set hiems and get 16" or 17" wheels
4. Get Stinky Fab's kit and get 16" or 17" wheels

So my questions are:
1. What is the disadvantage to a bent tie rod?
2. Do hiems perform that much better than TREs for the tie rod?
3. Would offset hiems work?
4. What is the strength of 7075 aluminum compared to 1.5" X .25" Wall DOM Tube?
 
Do you have anything constructive advice besides an emoji?

Sure :dunce:

How much lift over stock are you running? Looking at the track bar kit you have chosen, I'd be concerned using that if you didn't have over 4" of suspension lift. Are you going to fab the rest of the frame track bar mount to meet the factory holes?
 
1. What is the disadvantage to a bent tie rod?
2. Do hiems perform that much better than TREs for the tie rod?
3. Would offset hiems work?
4. What is the strength of 7075 aluminum compared to 1.5" X .25" Wall DOM Tube?

1. This will help your turning radius by getting the tie rod away from the diff cover and trac bar mount as the wheels turn. With no bend for clearance your turning radius becomes limited by the tie rod contacting the diff cover/trac bar mount.

2. Hiems have better degrees of misalignment than TREs. In that sense they perform better by not binding during suspension travel. However a TRE is easier to maintain by just having a good dust boot and pumping grease in them every now and then. I chose TREs but would not lose sleep about using hiems on steering.

3. Yes offset hiems would work. http://www.barnes4wd.com/Offset-Heat-Treated-Chromoly-78-14-X-34-Heim-Joint-_p_696.html

4. 7075 vs Steel DOM are about equal in strength for offroad use. A 7075 tie rod is a nice choice because that thing will flex and bend then return back to its strait position for a lot of cycles. Steel DOM is just brute strength but once you smack it good and bend it, it is most likely going to stay bent. If you are going to do lots of rock crawling then 7075 would be a smart investment. Nothing wrong with steel DOM though.
 
Sure :dunce:
Thanks for the advice. I would have also taken "proof read your post" as what I wrote in response to your emoji was a crime against the English language.

How much lift over stock are you running? Looking at the track bar kit you have chosen, I'd be concerned using that if you didn't have over 4" of suspension lift. Are you going to fab the rest of the frame track bar mount to meet the factory holes?

I am over 4" and the track bar kit comes with a new "frame" mount.

4. 7075 vs Steel DOM are about equal in strength for offroad use. A 7075 tie rod is a nice choice because that thing will flex and bend then return back to its strait position for a lot of cycles. Steel DOM is just brute strength but once you smack it good and bend it, it is most likely going to stay bent. If you are going to do lots of rock crawling then 7075 would be a smart investment. Nothing wrong with steel DOM though.

That is a great explanation. Thanks.


Thanks. I skimmed your list, but I will have to take a more detailed look at it. One thing did catch my eye. Why did you need the reamer if you used the GoForIt TRE inserts? Could you not have just either drilled out the knuckle with a regular bit and welded in the inserts?

Question. If you have to buy taps to chase the threads on a welded bung, why not just tap the dom?
I've often wondered the same thing. Perhaps it is not easy to tap 7/8"?
 
Thanks. I skimmed your list, but I will have to take a more detailed look at it. One thing did catch my eye. Why did you need the reamer if you used the GoForIt TRE inserts? Could you not have just either drilled out the knuckle with a regular bit and welded in the inserts?

I used goferits for the tie rod so I could run the offset OE WJ ends OTK, add that with 1.25" tie rod from clatyon it clears lock to lock.

The reamer was for the draglink (steering arm and pittman) because I ran 1 ton high angle drag link ends. I read the WJ ends do not hold up well on the drag links. I could have used inserts welded in but I didn't have a big enough drill bit, so I decide to buy a reamer vs a drill bit and inserts.
 
i dont use a steering stabilizer w/ no problems, i got 17" wheels for my 33 at street tires, but to use my 35" offroad tires on 15" steel wheels i need a 1.25 spacer. i reamed the knucks w/ offset 1 ton tre & a straight tie rod , makes toe adjustmts easier.
 
I used goferits for the tie rod so I could run the offset OE WJ ends OTK, add that with 1.25" tie rod from clatyon it clears lock to lock.

The reamer was for the draglink (steering arm and pittman) because I ran 1 ton high angle drag link ends. I read the WJ ends do not hold up well on the drag links. I could have used inserts welded in but I didn't have a big enough drill bit, so I decide to buy a reamer vs a drill bit and inserts.

This is music to my ears.

My plan is to shorten a stock WJ tie rod, but other than that, same game plan. I will find out if the WJ tie rod is of enough larger a diameter to pose any clearance issues with the diff cover. Hopefully there won't be much, if any. If it does end up being an issue then it should be a simple matter to spend some more money and get the Clayton tie rod.
 
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