First XJ Build

Hello everyone, I'm new to the forum, and a first time Jeep owner. I've always wanted an XJ, and I finally managed to get my hands on a good one to build on. When I aquired it, this '01 classic had already been lifted on a Rubicon Express 3.5" Superflex, with 32" BFG MT's on Rubicon 10th anniversary wheels (including full matching spare!). It also already had the RE sway bar QD's and steering stabilizer, as well as upgraded RE track bar. The thing runs like a top, very strong, and rides great.

Goals for this build is to bring it to an expedition style, with the intention of using it for trips with the family as well as plenty of time on the fire trails and the occasional mild crawling. Here's an idea of what to expect:

- Address the minor fender bender damage to the front end. Pop bolts, relieve stress on the panels and maybe knock out a couple dents. Nothing too crazy, as its going to get beat up anyway, and the front bumper is coming off to make room for a winch bumper.
- Repair drivers side seat tear on the side. An obvious common issue, and not too difficult of a fix for a good upholstery shop.
- Regear the front Dana 30 and rear Chrysler 8.25. Considering 4.56's, if you have input, please do so!
- Truss front Dana 30, as well as rebuild with chromoly axles
- Rock sliders
- Roof rack
- Headliner repair
- Rebuild top end (upgrade injectors, plugs, etc)
- Remove transfer case drop, replace with proper SYE and driveshaft
- Rear main seal, verrrry slight oil leak from that area right now onto the exhaust, needs to be addressed sooner rather than later

I just placed an order for a front winch bumper, rear bumper and tire carrier with C4X4. Mike was a great guy to do business with, and I can't wait to see the finished product. So far, top notch customer service. Those will be going on around the same time I begin swapping gears.

Your plan sounds good, I would do 4:56 gears but for your use needs I wouldn't waste the $, time and labor doing a D30 truss or axles, you will be fine with it the way it is.

My 2 cents.

I would go for the artec truss and C gussets, especially if you plan on putting money into a 30and want to keep it straight. Also lock at least the rear if not both axles. Always keep your future needs in mind when building.

Ahh yes, lockers for certain! I knew I missed something important...

One issue I'm seeing is with the RE 3.5" (plus 3/4" front coil spacer), I'm rubbing on full turn, and I'm certain it'll rub when stuffed. I plan on trimming in the fender wells, but I think I need another inch of lift and a bit more backspacing. I'll have to find out if the adaptors used to mount the wheels can be found in a bit more backspace, and how to achieve another 1" of lift without going too crazy. Perhaps shackles and front springs, but I'll have to see if I have the length with the shocks for longer springs, or if those will need to be replaced as well.

Or should I just trim and put in longer bump stops? 3.5" already makes it tough for the midget wife to hop in, and loading the baby into the car seat is hilarious to see her attempt...God bless her, she never complains.

Like I said, this is all new to me, but I love learning!

Trim those fenders first...it's free. Going higher = more $$$ and worse road manners. Cutting on the front fenders is simple. For the rear fenders google "cut and fold" a very popular mod thats easy to do.

I did the RE 3.5" lift and then used a Dodge Ram rear shackle and a Teraflex 2" coil spacer to get to about 5.5". I ended up, as I grew, also doing an SYE (which I never found necessary at 3.5"), drop brackets, a double shear track bar, a ZJ tie rod, shackle relocation brackets, the front fender trim, and the rear quarter cut and fold. I am running 32" tires now, but this picture is with 31". I also have the C4x4 rear bumper, although my tire carrier is Detours. I think that you have a solid plan to start at 3.5", because it doesn't need a lot of peripheral items to be done right and still have the handling and ability that you need/expect. I'd certainly support you starting there and then building on as you go. I'd consider ditching the 8.25 for an 8.8. With that tire size and lift size, you really don't need to be down as far as 4.56 gears, you would be fine with 4.11, which is an OEM gearing for the Explorer rear axles (and some XJ fronts also)...especially if you locked them.

After much reading, as well as the replies on this thread, I think going higher isn't what I want to do. I like the look of the Jeep as it is now, so I'll be trimming for certain. I don't know if I want to do the cut and fold, so I'll have to see how it behaves after that and bump stopping. What stops did you guys end up using?

I'll definitely consider the 4.11 gears! That's a good looking XJ, Cottonwood. I was looking at the 8.8 swap, as I understand it's a popular way to get more beef in the rear end as well as disk brakes. So many great, cool mods that can be done it's hard to get a solid vision for this thing. I'm sure it will keep evolving.

If you plan on changing gears go as deep as possible (4.88's), then trim and do 33's. 3.5 on 33's is perfect.

I loved my 4.56's and 32" tires. Also you should be able to get away with just trimming some of the plastic if you're going to stick with those 32's and want to keep the stock flares. I didn't have to really start cutting until I made the jump from 32's to 35's. My first round of mods was 3.5" lift with 32's and 4.56 gearing and it worked great. Sometimes I wish I'd just left it that way. It was so much nicer to drive than it is now.

Yeah, I think I'll keep it at 3.5" on 32's, honestly. The wife drives it a lot, and I think it's best to keep it as is height wise for her sake...haha!

The check engine light came on today. Time for my first trouble shoot! It's running fine and strong, so I'll probably start with the rear O2 sensor and see if it's that. It does leak a little oil from what looks like the rear main seal onto the exhaust, so it's burning a little oil.

Might as well run it over to a local parts store to get the code read rather than just tossing parts at it...or go buy a cheap code reader of your own.

The local auto zone is right on the corner next to me, time to introduce myself...

Cottontail said:

Might as well run it over to a local parts store to get the code read rather than just tossing parts at it...or go buy a cheap code reader of your own.

Click to expand...

Will do!