Building the leaf pack part 2 need input

OK, from the looks of it, at the build time I will have my UpCountry with the short AAL which has the mains tweaked, and 2 regular packs. The up country and regular seem to be similar with the exception of the lower most leaf which is slightly beefier in the upcountry.

Plan A: the plan is to take a good set of mains for new main (from regular pack), then take another main (either the regular pack or UpCountry... will compare both to each other) and shorten it at the eye to retain a bit of curvature as the next main leaf, then take the next big leaf that is regularly on the pack (either upcountry or normal, will have to compare them) and then the next leaf either upcountry or normal, will have to compare them)and then the UpCountry last one. This would end up being a 5 leaf pack with a BIIIG AAL and a bigger lowest leaf

Plan B: Similar to plan A except that for the second to last leaf, I would cut down the bigger leaf down to halfway in between it's original size and the one it's going to replace and I will still use the lowest leaf from the UpCountry

My objective is to get in the neighbourhod of 4" at this moment as I don't want to redo the front too much (maybe a small spacer on the coil springs). The bigger lifting will happen by next summer when I'm going to have the D44 ready with bigger tires.

Also when I'm assembling the pack what about spotwelding the ubolts to the lower leafs for keeping the pack from separating? I have seen some leafs that had those prebolted (welded?)somehow. This would help the droop (I hope).

Thanks
Kejtar

I do not understand plan B. I read it several times and am not sure that I really understand it??

But I like the basic plan. What kind of aal do you have currently (that you are useing in the new spring pack).

Michael

I don't know if either plan will get you 4" of lift. The guys using Dakota packs in place of the XJ leaves are getting 4" to 5" and the Dakota packs have a lot more initial arch. An XJ spring pack doesn't start out with very much arch. I think you're likely going to hit about 2" to 2-1/2" and have a firmer ride, and that's about it.

ok plan B: regular pack is 1 (main) 2 3 4 (bottom) the UpCountry is 1(main) 2 3 4(bottom bigger). Then I take the 1 (main from regular) then add a shortened 1 regular or upcountry, then add 2 regular or upcountry then 2 cut to be just in between the length of a 2 and 3 and then I add 4 of UpCountry.

Currently I have the Tomken 4" leaf pack which I picked up used and it seems to be tweaked unevenly (I think the current drivers main leaf/pack was on the passenger side where a tire carrier was and that pack is suffering from aftereffects of axle wrap or overload and extra sagging). I want to rebuild an even pack on both sides that's why I was planning on using the stock packs and taking evenly looking leafs (on arch)

Btw, the shorty AAL with an up country pack has given me about 3.5" of lift orignally...

Kejtar said:

ok plan B: regular pack is 1 (main) 2 3 4 (bottom) the UpCountry is 1(main) 2 3 4(bottom bigger). Then I take the 1 (main from regular) then add a shortened 1 regular or upcountry, then add 2 regular or upcountry then 2 cut to be just in between the length of a 2 and 3 and then I add 4 of UpCountry.

Click to expand...

What you are describing will make a nice set of springs, but it won't give you the lift. Look at the amount of arch in either stock pack when it's out of the vehicle. Run a string between the two eyes, and measure how far it is from that line to the spring perch surface. It's probably not much more than 4" with no load, so how can adding more leaves with the same arch provide 4" of lift under load?

Example: My last autocross car was a '68 Javelin. It was originally a "plain Jane," came with a V-8 and a 4-speed and not much else. I made rear spring packs by using the full original pack plus EVERY leaf out of a second pack, with the eyes cut off the second main leaf and the others trimmed at the ends to stagger the lengths. I ended up with a 7- or 8-leaf pack, IIRC. When I put them in the car, I only needed a 3/4" lowering block (steel, thank you) to get it back to the stock ride height.

Doesn't matter how many leaves you add -- they won't give you more lift than they have initial arch.

You can use almost any 2.5" leaves from a SUA vehicle and achieve lift. Alot of people use dakota leaves, I couldn't find a cheap set, so I decided to use MJ leaves. I have heard that S10 leaves work also.

Unfortuantely Kejtar, you may be the one figuring this out yourself. I think there is too many factors involved, spring rates, the condition of the donor leafs ect...

There still is the tried and true method of lifting op the rear, and it's blocks and shackels, I know Eagle doesn't like them, but i know my original leaf packs would have survived more than on season, if I had fab a good traction bar. No matter how well you make your pack, torque and flex are going to wear them out.

Spring wrap is not a fun thing, especialy while trying to climb a steep hill. I know, it freaked me out.

Well I know it's a guessing game for me, but I'm hoping that someone out there tried it already
In any vase, I know I will stay away from blocks, but with a reinforced pack (plan A) I'm thinking shackles might be the way to go.....

Kejtar

I think you can get what you want out of what you have. It's partly true that the stock leaves won't give more arch even with more leaves, but not completely true. The leaves have much more arch with no weight on them, and with more leaves the pack is stronger and won't flatten out as much with the vehicle's weight on them. So, you will get more arch, and more lift, out of a thicker pack even with stock leaves.

I would cut down one of the main leaves like you said in plan A, and I would cut down one of the other leaves like you said in plan B. This would give you a 6 leaf pack, and with the thicker UpCountry bottom leaf it might give you what you're after. You get 1/4" per leaf, so the two leaves give you 1/2" just by their thickness. I like you're idea of leaving the second leaf as long as possible, to the main leaf spring eyes, but don't leave any curve in them, cut the whole eye off, otherwise they will bind a little when drooping as the second spring slides down relative to the main spring.

If this doesn't get you quite enough, then add a seventh leaf in between the second and third leaf, splitting the difference in length. Be sure to clean and paint the leaves with a very good paint to reduce future rust and friction. I like using a good epoxy based paint that I get in a spray can. One problem with shortening a leaf spring is that you'll cut off the holes for the plastic pads, which will cause a little stiffer ride, especially after a while when dirt and rust get between the leaves. You can avoid this by adding full length liners between those leaves, or use the liners between every leaf. Any spring shop will have the liners.

Be sure to keep some spring clamps in the pack to keep the leaves from slipping sideways. A couple of the leaves should have the clamps that are riveted to the leaf at the bottom and bend over the pack at the top. Since the pack will now be thicker, you may have to bend them straight up, which will work fine. You could use the next to last leaf in your Tomken pack, which should have an open spring clamp with a bolt through the top, if you need it to get the clamp.

Building you own spring pack is trial and error, but if you have the patience, and don't mind taking it apart a couple of times, it's not hard to get it the way you like it.

im using dakota leaves
40 bucks for the set at a junk yard
Take the mainleaf from the dakota pack and cut the eyes off
then put it back in the pack with the main leaf from the xj pack
with a 1.5 shackle youll be running 32s in the back with no problem and no trimming