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1991 Briarwood slow poke build

SBpunk

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Enid, OK
This is going to be a pretty slow build. Mostly just for my records than anything else. I purchased a 91' Briarwood 4.0 AW4 w/ 119k miles.

History:

The XJ knocked out its first 100k miles traveling around the country mostly on the back of a RV. The first owner gave it to his son after it was stored for almost two decades. The son moved to Hawaii in 2011 where he put the remaining miles on it. The thing has been serviced at Firestone on schedule up until the son got it. It was serviced when needed. On June 4th 2013 I purchased it for $1000 cash. He was asking $1200 but told me it was throwing an engine code, had backed taxes, expired safety and cracked radiator. I was told if I gave him 1k$ cash he would fix the radiator and sign the title. Could I have fixed it myself? Yes but it was all the way across the island (Hawaii) with no cooling system.

Current Status:

This thing is stock. I mean off the line stock. Original shocks, springs, bushings and probably most the fluids. It has a Dana 35c rear end, leaking coolant system, brakes are shot, overheats (sort of) and the rear main seal has a slight leak. Along with a few other small things this is what I invested in.

The good thing is the 'check engine' light wasn't a check engine light. Like most people, he assumed check engine and maintenance require lights are saying theres something wrong with the engine / electrical system. The Main. Req. light is something that comes on when you hit a certain mileage telling you to chance some sensors. O2 mainly. It cannot tell if you've changed it or not it just knows you've put XXXXXXX amount of miles on your vehicle. The only way to reset it is finding an OBD1 scanner which usually involves a dealership. Or you can be the creative do-it yourself jeeper we know you are and take the dash apart, pull the bulb and call it a day. MOVING ON the frame has absolutely no rust what so ever. None, nadda and I checked everywhere. The body has minor stuff here and there. Surface rust. No biggie. Oil leak is so small that the droplet hasnt dripped to the ground the two days I've had it. To be honest I'm not even 100% sure its coming from the rear main seal. It might just be the oil plug leaking from someone not tightening it enough / too much from the last oil change. Of course it'll drive me nuts since I'm sort of OCDish about stuff like that.

What I've Done So Far:

Put 1/3 can of SeaFoam thru the TB. Smoked pretty good. Did it actually do anything? Not sure but it makes me feel better.

Checked the 4wd. Everything worked perfectly. Fluids need to be changed I'm assuming.

I'm in the processes of refreshing the suspension. Ordered a set of 1.5 inch lift leaf springs from 4wheelparts since they were back ordered on the stock crown HD springs. Got a set of the stock country package coil springs giving about 1 inch lift in the front. New OEM shackles. Ordered bushings for control arms, track bar, leaf springs and sway bar. Got a 3/4 inch coil spacer. Picked up some JK rubicon shocks. Ordered a new TPS, CPS, MAP, O2 upstream, 5.0 injectors, 63mm TB and a few other small things. Hopefully they all get here around the same time so I have a plethora of things to do all at once.

I have a 136a alternator and thick gauge wire laying around I might install also. I'm pretty sure I still have a THOR cowl intake too. Still on the fence if I want to install it.

Future Mods:

This is a list of things I plan on doing when I get back to Hawaii. My goal is to lift it and stuff 33x12.5s without cutting the fenders anymore than I have to. We'll see how long that last.

R.E. 5.5 inch coils on JKS ACOS
Clayton 6.5 leafs on Liquid Iron leaf sliders
JKS Adjustable track bar
Tom Woods HnT SYE (NP242) and driveshaft
???? Rock Sliders
TnT full frame stiffeners
SeriousOffRoad long arms
Ford 8.8 w/ shaft upgrade and locked out 4.88 gears
D30HP shaft upgrade selectable locker
Currie HD steering
Vanco Big Brake kit

Anyway you get the idea. After the winch, armor and bumpers it should bring it down at least an inch. I'm not trying to compete but I want to be able to head out and keep up with most of these SWB Jeeps running around.

Well thats it for today. I'll check in again when I get something else to do to it. Thanks for reading all my yapping.










:puke:
 
Forgot to post the build sheet -

*AL Leather Trimmed Bucket Seats
ADL Skid Plate Group
APAS Monotone Paint
ARCS Rubicon X
BAFS 130 Amp Alternator
BCDS 500 Amp Maintenance Free Battery
BGK 4-Wheel Anti-Lock Brakes
CACP Low Back Bucket Seats
CDBS Reclining Front Seats
CFMS Rear Fold w/Removable Cushion Seat
CKBS Floor Carpet
CKNS Cargo Compartment Carpet
CKTS Cargo Tie Down Loops
CKVS MOPAR All Weather Mats
CLES Front & Rear Floor Mats
CSAS Spare Tire Cover
CSCS Cargo Compartment Cover
CUFS Full Length Floor Console
CUNS Overhead Console
DGB All 4-Speed Automatic Transmissions
DGSS 4-Speed Automatic AW4 Transmission
DHAS Lock-Up Torque Converter
DHPS Selec-Trac Full Time 4WD System
DHSS Floor Mount Automatic Shift Lever
DJHS Dana M30/181MM Front Axle
DMDS 3.55 Rear Axle Ratio
DRMP Dana 35C/194MM Rear Axle
DSA Trac-Lok Differential Rear Axle
ERH 4.0L I6 Power Tech Engine
GBBS Tinted Windshield Glass
GCBS Front Door Tinted Glass
GEC Front Left Side Sliding Window
GEDS Tinted Rr Drs/Qtr/Liftgate Glass
GFAS Rear Window Defroster
GNCS Sun Visors w/Illum Vanity Mirrors
GRJP Left Power Chrome Mirror
GSJP Right Power Chrome Mirror
GTJS Power Mirrors
GVBC All Vehicles W/Power Mirrors
GXMS Remote Keyless Entry
HAAS Air Conditioning
HGDS Deluxe Insulation Group
JAYS Instrument Cluster w/Tach
JCAS 85 MPH Primary Speedometer
JGBS Digital Clock
JHAS Var Intermittent Windshield Wipers
JHBS Rear Window Wiper/Washer
JJAS Cigar Lighter
JPAS Power Windows
JPBS Power Locks
JPTS Power Front Driver/Passenger Seats
LACS Illuminated Entry
LAJS Headlamps On Warning Chimes
LBBS Courtesy Lamps
LBCS Glove Box Lamp
LBDS Ash Tray Lamp
LBES Cigar Lighter
LDAS Underhood Lamp
LDBS Cargo Compartment Lamp
LHDS Headlamp Off Time Delay
LMAS Halogen Headlamps
LNJS Fog Lamps
LSAS Security Alarm
MB2S Bright/Black Front Bumper
MB6S Bright/Black Rear Bumper
MCAS Front Bumper Guards
MCBS Rear Accent Color Applique
MDAP Front License Plate Bracket
MFMS Black/Bright Grille
MHBS Bright Windshield Moldings
MMCS Rear Qtr Solid Window Insert
MMGS Belt Moldings
MPAS MOPAR Chrome Front Applique
MTAS Rear Fascia Skid Plate Applique
MWAS Roof Rack
NAE California Emissions
NBKS EVAP Control System
NFAS 20 Gallon Fuel Tank
NHMS Speed Control
PW7 Bright White Clear Coat
QW7S Bright White Clear Coat
RAAC All Radio Equipped Vehicles
RAFS AM/FM Cassette Radio
RCGS 6 Speakers
RDCS Power Antenna
SBAS Power Steering
SCGS Leather Wrapped Steering Wheel
SFAS Standard Duty Shock Absorbers
SGAS Rear Shock Absorbers
SUAS Tilt Steering Column
TBB Full Size Spare Tire
TBLS Inside Mounted Spare Tire
TMDA P215/75R15 BSW All Season Tires
TZHP Michelin Brand Tires
WJGS 15" Aluminum Wheels
WLZC All Aluminum Wheels
YAAS Build To U.S. Mkt. Specifications
 
As far as the Maint. Light. One of the fixes is to remove it. I want to say I saw that in an FSM/AllData or something like that.
 
As far as the Maint. Light. One of the fixes is to remove it. I want to say I saw that in an FSM/AllData or something like that.

I tried hooking it up to a OBD1 scanner and clearing the codes but it didnt work. Going to try again after work.
 
Last edited:
Beautiful!
 
Not sure what scanner you were using, but you might try contacting the Jerk, aka GSequoia as he has an MT2500 and I'm sure he knows a bit about it as well.


Found this: Basically everyone says disco. it and/or remove it. Has location of apparatus and everything
http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/emission-maintenance-light-16013/index2/

I'll just end up pulling the the bulbs. The washer fluid light is on permanently and so is the ABS. I'll be throwing a ford 8.8 in the rear anyway so ABS is going away.

09 JUNE 2013

Swapped out my water pump, installed a thermostat since the PO wasnt running one and flushed the system. Also installed a flush hose connection on the upper heater hose. Now I can just hook a garden hose up to it when I need to flush it again.

A ton of parts were ordered since I sold my Comanche :wow: and have some money into this guy to refresh the suspension and start improving engine performance here and there. Bored TB, injectors, cold air, cat back exhaust and throwing in a better down pipe to replace the dented stock one.
 
be very careful with that aweful bendix ABS system. May want to consider swapping in a 95-up XJ,ZJ or WJ brake booster, prop valve, and MC. Will definitely help with rear discs.
 
I have a 96 booster and MC sitting on my floor right now. It was going to go into my comanche but sold it before I installed. Going to have to look up the prop valve thing. I havent done much research except you have to shave down part of the booster to get the brake lights to work
 
IIRC. If you get the corresponding year (or just later model?) brake pedal and swap in then you don't havce to do that extra work. Yes, it doesn't look difficult, but why do work that you dont have to?
 
Nice jeep. Oil leak is probably from the oil filter mount. Three o-rings that need replacing. Maint req light, it might be the same as my 90, and there is a clear and black plastic box directly under the steering column that you can unplug, and throw away. I know 91 is HO, but they were slow about changing some things.
 
Nice jeep. Oil leak is probably from the oil filter mount. Three o-rings that need replacing. Maint req light, it might be the same as my 90, and there is a clear and black plastic box directly under the steering column that you can unplug, and throw away. I know 91 is HO, but they were slow about changing some things.

What are the boxes for?
 
It's one box, as mentioned. All it does is turn on the light, at least on the Renix system, it is not connected to the computer.
 
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