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TJ Flare Install Writeup...56K beware

ckh550

NAXJA Forum User
Location
San Diego
OK, this is for you guys that are about to trim, have trimmed, or are just looking to put Tj flares on soon. I have searched NAXJA and Jeepforum and never found an actual writeup on how to install TJ flares so I'm taking charge. Every other thread just says 'search" and when you search you find threads that say 'search'. If you have not yet trimmed then this install will be pretty easy. If you have, no worries, I'm here to help. I also have a snorkel so I had to do a little extra cutting of the fenders, but nothing serious. Here we go...

1) With trimmed fenders
trim2.jpg

2) With trimmed fenders and snorkel. As you can see there isn't much room between the bottom of the fender and snorkel.
snorkel3.jpg


3) Here is the inner part of the fender with its funky lip and curves.
1.jpg


4) On the left is the fender as normal. On the right, I cut off that goofy 4 prong thing and the inner lip of the fender. It just gets in the way. My advice is to cut as much of the inner lip as possible, leaving only a little bit of plastic right around the holes.
2.jpg

5) Another pic.
3.jpg


6)
4.jpg

The inner lip trimmed

7) Some trimmed out section where the snorkel is gonna go.
5.jpg


8) fitting it up into place
6.jpg


9) Pretty good placement
6b.jpg


10) You can mark the holes with either a marker or white out, white out would probably easier on a dark jeep. On the areas that are nowhere near the edge of the fender I drilled two holes. This is where I looped the zip ties around. If the holes were near the edge, I just drilled one hole. Remember to dab some Rustoleum paint on there to prevent rusting.
7.jpg


11)
8.jpg


12)
8b.jpg


Now, I opted to ziptie my fenders into place rather than nuts and bolts or self-tapping screws. You're either thinking 1) wow, Chris is a lazy bastard or 2) Chris is an automotive genius. I will praise him.
If you chose 2, you are correct. I went with zip ties because a) I am a lazy bastard and nuts and bolts were waaay too hard to get into place and drill the holes exactly right. B) If my fenders get pushed up against a tree, rather than ripping my flares and sheetmetal off with the nuts and bolts, the zip ties will just snap and that's it. No lost sheetmetal and my flare will be fine (hopefully). The zip ties are plenty strong and hold them firmly in place.

13) Trim around that goofy edge piece to make the flare nice and even with the body lines.
10.jpg

12.jpg



14) Hold up the flare and ziptie it loosely into place.
9.jpg

13.jpg

1ea3edfc.jpg


15) When everything looks good and lined up, tighten the zip ties.
48364f6a.jpg


16) Fronts are done. Mine are up a bit higher than I would've liked because I trimmed my fenders so high. If you haven't trimmed yet then you can move them down a bit lower to match right up with the bumper.
e9679de5.jpg

19e406b4.jpg

d1040990.jpg



The Rears...

The rears are pretty much the same as far how you measure and drill the holes. Again I drilled two holes in some places and one hole near the edges of the fender. A few tips and things to consider.

1)For the rears, be sure to drill your holes ABOVE the lip on the body. If you drill on the lip, it's going to really hard to get the fender flat and snug up against the body.
2) Also, Go ahead and cut as much of the inner lip as possible, leaving only some of the plastic around the holes on the fender. The inner fender lip only gets in the way.
3) I placed my fenders on the opposite side they were designed for. (Drivers side on passengers side and vice versa). If you put them on their normal side, the back edge of the flare goes waaaay back to cover about half of the rear quarter panels. It just doesn't look right or fit very well either. I turned mine around, then cut the lower part on the front part of the flare. I did not cut mine in half and mount it on the door as some do, but kept it all in one piece.

1)
8c165eb2.jpg


2) My rear quarter panels are beat to hell.
da762fad.jpg


3) I left a gap in between the body and flare since next weekends project is to make some rear quarter panel guards. When I put those in, the flares and guards should be nice and smooth and flush.
These are the guards I intend to make (or buy if I have to).
gaurds2.jpg

guards1.jpg

cf058dc1.jpg

c5845120.jpg


4) Those rear quarter panels are UGLY!
96e6ea39.jpg



Thats pretty much it. Hope this helps anyone, and please feel free to ask any questions you may have.

Chris
 
pardon me if this ends up a dumb question... :wierd:


how did you mark the holes? (I know, "a marker or whiteout") Like, how did you get to the holes to mark 'em? Being up inside the fender like that, looks tricky.
 
There's no such thing as a stupid question...only stupid people. Just kidding!

Pretty much just that, kinda scribbled a dot with a marker. If you have something shorter, like a white out stick or a cotton swab dipped in paint that might be easier. using a sharpie wasn't easy, but it was good enough. You just have to get it in the general vicinity really, since using zip ties you don't have to have holes drilled dead on.

Chris
 
That zip-tie thing is genius. Appears remarkably lazy at first....but fender flares aren't load bearing, so a zip-tie holds them on fine. If they do get the 'ole tree-rip-off (or side swiped by a dodge ram at 50 mph) they won't rip off any body parts.

I applaud your natural tendency for laziness that somehow turned out as an innovative and useful tip.
 
Thanks Brother. Way to try to be sneaky and call me lazy over the internet rather than saying it to my face OH YEAH you're in Iraq.


CK
 
I have a lot of experience with having TJ flares, and one thing I can say is that this write up is a bit off on some areas. I mean, zipties? A nut and bolt do the same job, and they won't rip off, no matter how hard you try. Also, self tapping screws work better in the rear, and again, they won't rip out.

I just think it looks a bit goofy with both flares at different levels on the body, but I can understand your particular situation. Also, to compensate for the rear flares not being proportional to the XJ wheel well opening, all you do is trim out an inch of the flare where you cut it in half.

Good job with trimming for the snorkel and contours of the body. I couldn't ever get it right, so I ended up cutting off the flare where the body changes at the bottom of the doors and quarter panel.
 
I know nuts and bolts would give a tighter fit, but I was having a hard time getting the holes drilled precisely. I bought plenty of self-tapping screws and washers etc and tried that first and it was just too tedious and would've caused more problems than anything. That, and I've read PLENTY on people using zip ties without problems. In case I ever need to remove my flares for any reason, snip snip, they're out of the way.
About the uneven flares, I did the best I could. They're really not that off, both are right at the 'lip' on the front panels. I admit I got rushed on the passenger's side front. (a Cop casually questioned me about them a few days ago) I didn't really stop and look until after I was done that it was a bit off. But then again, unless you're able to look at both sides at the same time they look fine.

When I take them wheeling we'll see how they do. SO far so good though.

Chris
 
Good post...Thanks. You gave a good base of information and provide your own techniques. People doing this mod can use this post as a good reference and adjust the procedure as they see fit.....i.e. zip ties, screws, super glue....hahahhaha
 
What size lift and tires do you have? About how much did you cut off the fenders? Just wondering what mine well look like. Good right up.
 
I have a 4" Rusty's lift and 33x12.50s on there. I cut about 2.5" up front and about 1" or so in the rear. Here are some before and after pics, before I cleaned them up. I also had to trim a few inches off corners of my bumper.
The TJ flares aren't nearly as big as Bushwackers, so even with my worn down 33's they don't look really small. If you have smaller than 33's then it might look like you've got really tiny tires, but the amount I trimmed, plus the flares, make it look about right. With 35's it would fill out perfectly.
Before front
before1.jpg

After front
after5.jpg


Before Rear
before2.jpg

After Rear
donerear.jpg

done5.jpg


Chris
 
Sweet write up Chris. This topic does come up quite a bit and you're right...there's not a lot of good info. on it. Your Jeep looks great. It'd be nice if the bottom part of the front flare was dead even with the fender but I think you done good. As for the zip-ties. Try it out. Maybe you're onto something maybe you're not. If it ends up being a sh!tty idea...I guess you can always do the other. Thanks man.
 
xjj33p3r said:
I have a lot of experience with having TJ flares, and one thing I can say is that this write up is a bit off on some areas. I mean, zipties? A nut and bolt do the same job, and they won't rip off, no matter how hard you try. Also, self tapping screws work better in the rear, and again, they won't rip out.

I just think it looks a bit goofy with both flares at different levels on the body, but I can understand your particular situation. Also, to compensate for the rear flares not being proportional to the XJ wheel well opening, all you do is trim out an inch of the flare where you cut it in half.

Good job with trimming for the snorkel and contours of the body. I couldn't ever get it right, so I ended up cutting off the flare where the body changes at the bottom of the doors and quarter panel.


I used nuts and bolts up front and rivets in the back, havn't been able to rip them off yet and they have been through hell. Pushed the front fender in against a tree, I thought for sure the flare would be gone, pulled the fender out and every thing was fine.
 
Again, nuts and bolts would work fine. There's no reason why they'd be any stronger or weaker. But zip-ties do work just fine. Also makes it very easy to take off whenever I'm on the trail. If I want to see my tires as I'm driving or if I don't want to chance ripping them off, just cut a few ties and they're off in 2 minutes.
This writeup was to be more of a general 'how-to' since I know a lot of times people just need some baseline guidance on where to start. I'm sure we were all a little nervous that first time we took a grinder to our jeep's body, so a little coaxing and reassurance that it can be done often helps (helps me at least).

I'm sure if i had been really patient I could've gotten nuts and bolts or rivets to work, but I also wanted to keep this project under $50. I knew I wouldn't use a rivet gun again anytime soon so why buy one? My flares cost me $45 and a bag of zip ties and that was it.

Anyone else feel free to add tips to this thread, other things to consider or do differently so that when people search for this thread in the future there can be TONS of info for them. I am no pro, just an amateur, so there are always other ways to improve.

Thanks!
Chris
 
riverfever said:
It'd be nice if the bottom part of the front flare was dead even with the fender but I think you done good. .

Yeah, oops. That wasn't as much of a 'mess up' as it was trying to make it fit with the snorkel and how much I trimmed. I had about 1/4" of fender left below the snorkel, so I couldn't really move it down any lower unfortunately. It's as low as I could get it.
If someone trims and adds fenders at the same time it would be easy to make the lines match up perfectly. Just dont trim quite as high.

On the passenger's side I had to try to make it match up so I just had to 'eyeball' it basically and make it look even. So even though there is no snorkel on the passenger side, it's still up pretty high. Oh well. Again, anyone doing this without a snorkel or as much trimming could easily make it look really good, as I know many have before.

Chris
 
Just to chime in to give everyone searching some info:

I just finished this up a couple weeks ago, I used 4 rear flares, 2 left, 2 right. I did end up trimming a majority of the inside of the flare where the holes are and then marked a line about an inch and 3/4 all the way around the circumference and drilled holes about 3-4 inches apart all the way around. The holes already in the flare didn't line up well with the fenders. As to marking the holes, once I temp installed where i wanted the flare with 3 inch masking tape, it was just a matter of getting in there with a very short pencil that I sharpened down and mark the holes. If you have a dark XJ a pencil obviously won't work, but white-out or a q-tip in some white paint would work just as well.

I used self tappers in the rear and nuts and bolts in the front, the self tappers go in real easy with a ratchet wrench (hence the line 1 3/4" from the edge giving you space for the wrench). If you wanted, you could even use nuts and bolts in the rear if you want to take the rear quarter interior panels out. I had them out to push out some damage before i put the flares on and there's plenty of room around the wheel well to access the holes.

Like I said, just some info for people who want to do this, I'm glad someone finally put a thread together instead of having to piece different ones together to show people how to do this.
 
Could I get some close up shots of people that have installed the flares in the rear. Mostly a side shot that shows how you trimmed and how they were mounted. I noticed that rear corter panels need lots of triming to match the curve of the fenders. Would like to see how everyone took care of that problem.
 
kscherokee said:
Could I get some close up shots of people that have installed the flares in the rear. Mostly a side shot that shows how you trimmed and how they were mounted. I noticed that rear corter panels need lots of triming to match the curve of the fenders. Would like to see how everyone took care of that problem.


I have a couple of shots of mine, on the rear quarter I only cut to the bumper side cap, then on the front of the same flair I went to the bottom of the rear door.

Just take your time and trim, fit, trim some more, fit, sand the edges and mount. For mounting use bolts through the rear quarter and door (for 4 door models)

Rearfendertrim2notes.jpg

Rearinsidedoortrimnotes.jpg

Doormoldingtrim.jpg


Album for the rest of the shots
http://photobucket.com/albums/v332/p1atinum/TJ Flares/
 
what about the washer fluid bottle on the drivers' side fender? I'm trimmed almost flush with the bottom of it, and i think that if i put bolts in there, the fluid resovoir will be in the way. Did yall just take it out? i really wanna keep it in there.
 
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