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Two Joint Drive Shaft on Non-Disconnect Dana 30

themauler

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Va Beach
Hello NAXJA,

I have swapped a dana 300 behind my ax15 and was hoping to use a cv driveshaft (OEM) style to connect to my dana 30 non disconnect. The flip ring for the dana 300 combined with the wrangler ax15 has the dana 300 at its lowest clock-able position above the frame rails. Definitely excited for a flat belly on this XJ but I have run into the driveshaft issue.

With my np231 I had about 5.5* castor on my dana 30 and had the yoke pointed right at the tcase output. Now with the higher clocked dana 300 plus the decrease in driveshaft length it looks like pointing the dana 30 right at the dana 300 yoke is going to completely squash my castor. Not really interested in turning axle Cs at the moment. I also believe that a cv drive shaft would bind before suspension unloads all the way.

Basically I am looking at running a typical two joint drive shaft like below for the ability to keep my castor and have more angular deflection at the yokes.
B2LT-131-131_575x65.jpg


Is it reasonable to dial in a driveshaft like this and run it on the highway? (Still drive this to and from trails. Mainly rock crawling, no high speed stuff)

TIA :compwork:
 
you are going backwards.......those u-joints can't handle big angles.....that's why a cardan type joint is used to cut the angle in half for each joint.

If a cardan will bind, then those will break.

Think ujoints in a front axle when turning hard to one side......
 
you are going backwards.......those u-joints can't handle big angles.....that's why a cardan type joint is used to cut the angle in half for each joint.

If a cardan will bind, then those will break.

Think ujoints in a front axle when turning hard to one side......

This is how high the front output is. Its elevated and the driveshaft got about 4" shorter. I could gain a few degree by drilling holes in the back of my ax15 to bring it back down to a stock XJ clock but wanted to hold off first.

 
OK...then here......

http://www.4xshaft.com/images/aa2s-131-131_MultDC_575x125.jpg

The multiple double cardan drive shaft can be built by us for almost any application. It is used in applications where good drive shaft geometry cannot be obtained for a more conventional drive shaft and needs to run smoothly at high speeds. Commonly this would be a applications such as a Grand Cherokee or Land Rover front drive shaft where the pinion angle cannot be adjusted without adversely effecting the steering caster. Or any application where you have substantial compound angles (an angle as viewed from both the side and top).

Prices start at $454 and may also require changing the transfer case and or pinion flange/yoke.


If ya want to play..........you may have to change out the flanges you have now
 
Woof. That's some serious hardware right there. I am hoping maybe when I put the crossmember back on that maybe the dana 300 will drop down atleast an inch as there is currently a jack stand holding it up.

Has anyone had good luck grinding down a stock 1310 CV to get more angular clearance?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
stretch the front?
throw a crawl box in front of the 300?



It has crossed my mind. Still sporting stock suspension design on RE control arms. Currently stretching the rear axle even though that doesn't help this situation.

Not exactly interested in doing a crawl box at the moment, especially since I just threw in lomax gears into the dana 300. Looks like re-drilling the back of the AX15 will be my first shot at getting this d-shaft angle a tad bit better.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Woof. That's some serious hardware right there. I am hoping maybe when I put the crossmember back on that maybe the dana 300 will drop down atleast an inch as there is currently a jack stand holding it up.

Has anyone had good luck grinding down a stock 1310 CV to get more angular clearance?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I did on my old ramcharger when I still was using stock driveshafts.
 
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