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Tire chains and tire size

PlainWhiteXJ

NAXJA Forum User
Ok, from what I read, a 96 XJ with no lift will fit 235/75-15 without rubbing, 29s with rubbing on the control arms.

Anybody have experience running chains with either size?

What hits first in the front?

What hits first in the back? (Front chains have worked better for me than back in the past, but I'm guessing that front hit quite a bit before back - that's mostly why I ask.)

If it makes any difference, it has the tow package.

And, long as I'm at it any recommendations for a pretty agressive AT or middle of the road MT that is not too loud? The new Swamper looks perfect, but does not come small enough.
 
I never ran chains on an XJ and probably never will.

Going up from 235s to 30s, what hits first is the inner shoulder of the front tire rubs against the lower control arm when the steering is cranked over to full lock. A 30x9.50 is really not much larger than a 235/75, so if a bare tire hits, you can bet that a tire chain on a 235 will hit.

I would also be very concerned about clearance at the forward bottom edge of the rear wheel arches with chains on 235s.

I don't think it's a good idea.
 
I'll second that on the chains, not with anything bigger than *maybe* 225's but 215's would probably be better. Either way I would install them and then lay under there while someone turned the wheels lock to lock and see if it required any washers behind the steering stops. You could really do some damage...
 
I’ve never run chains on my XJ. Considering that I live in AK and see snow 5 months of the year that should tell you something. As long as you have good tires, chains are totally unnecessary. I’ve been through powder that was deep enough it came over my hood and everything came out just fine. The chains don’t give you any more traction than good tires and cause a lot more problems than they fix. I’ve had good luck with BFG ATs and a couple of my buddies run MTs.
 
Chains have their place and here sometimes that is the only way to get around if you have a 2wd. I have not needed them since I sold my 82 S-10 P/U and got my Trooper and now the XJ. When I had the S-10 the chains are the only thing that got me the last 10 miles to the house while everyone else was off the road or sitting sideways on a hill
 
I would run four studded tires before I'd even consider chains. But studs can rip up the wheel wells pretty well, too. I wouldn't run studded tires any larger than 225/75R15, and I'd want to check that carefully to be sure there wouldn't be any "interference fit." 215s would be better.
 
The tire "cables" like they sell at Walmart fit much more snugly to the tire than chains do and give a decent bite on the icy stuff. As everyone else has said though I don't see a need for them except in an emergency or an ice storm. The weight distribution of an XJ is even enough that both the front and rear get good traction, unlike what a P/U has to work with.
Mike B.
 
This truck is mostly for weekend fun. I'll probably only have one set of tires, so they have do it all, 4 seasons. I do a little mudding, lots of Forest (Road Closure) Service roads, some snow, some rocks. I also hunt, and it is not unusual to get out in sloppy mud, or snow with ice layers underneath.

I have not had tons of luck in the past with serious snow without chains, and I'm leery that the cable chains are not beefy enough - if I'm in deep enough to need chains, cables may not last the trip.

Studded tires do wonders on ice, but are terrible on pavement, and I need to go 30 miles to most places I wheel.

The "forward bottom edge of the rear wheel arches" sounds like it might clearance itself if things moved that far, or pre-clearancing with sledge might do it. Any thoughts?

Anybody else? I'm going to be getting new rubber shortly, and want to explore my options.
 
I drive farm roads, some on a decent slope, snow melts in the day and freezes at night (sometimes inches thick). If I have to go down in the draws, I use a set of old fashioned, ladder chains (with cleats) on a worn set of 225´s. Lower the pressure in the tires, a little trial and error, will get you a nice/really tight fit, after you add some air (don´t need tensioners). I carry the chained tires and a small floor type hydrolic jack. Changing the tires is faster than putting on the chains. Fewer cold fingures and wet knees. I use some squeeze type chain links to hold the free ends tight, cut off the extra, all but a few links. They may hit, if your carrying much of a load or hit a bump to fast, on the rears, I´ve skinned the fender wells on occasion, makes a heck of a racket, but has done little actual damage.
I don´t use the chains often, but after a hair raising ride, down an icey slope, with a ditch on one side and a three foot dropoff on the other, with a large pond at the bottom of the trail. I sure enough put them on, if necessary or find another way.
I leave the 30X9.50´s on the front, the slightly larger tire in the front, helps with the steering. If you get out of shape, a little gas pedal will straighten you back up.
 
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