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Bolts backing out of ring gear???

ryurabbit

ryurabbit

NAXJA Member #611
Location
Yucaipa,CA
Just checked the noise in my front d30 axle and the ring gear bolts backed out of the ring gear. I dont get it. I put red locktite on them and overtightened them by 10 foot lbs and they still came out. This is the second time. I wonder if the lunchbox lockers are vibrating so much that they come out. Anybody else have this problem???
 
Ditto on the torque, plus were they New bolts each time and were the threads(ring gear and bolts) clean and dry?
 
Agreed on the ring gear torque. Yukon recomends 55 lbft on the D30 ring gear bolts.
 
10lbs over isnt going to hurt anything.

As far as your question...the threads..inside the hole too.. must be nearly perfectly clean. if there was traces of machining oil inside the bolt hole on the ring gear, the lock tite aint gonna do squat.

Also, too much liquid in a blind hole can hydra-lock the bolt and cause it to seem tight before it is actually tightened. use lock tite sparingly; drip it onto the bolt, let it wick into the threads and shake off the access.
 
ryurabbit said:
Just checked the noise in my front d30 axle and the ring gear bolts backed out of the ring gear. I dont get it. I put red locktite on them and overtightened them by 10 foot lbs and they still came out. This is the second time. I wonder if the lunchbox lockers are vibrating so much that they come out. Anybody else have this problem???
Click to expand...

Ya mean like this:
standard.jpg


That was FarmerMatt's 9" out in JV last year. Couldn't figure out what that noise was........
 
Digger87xj said:
10lbs over isnt going to hurt anything.
Click to expand...
A proper design for bolted joints on a permanently bolt fastened joint (like engine head bolts or ring gear bolts) is to specify a preload of 90% of the bolts yeild strength and if that is 90 in-lbs when yield is 100 in-lbs and you torque the bolts 10 over you've just started to yield your bolts and they begin to stretch, which will loosten your bolts. That is why FSM's and repair books tell you to always replace those critical bolts during reassembly because they won't work properly if you don't. I'd recomend not torquing any bolt higher than the recomended level. OK I'm done. :lecture:

Digger87xj said:
As far as your question...the threads..inside the hole too.. must be nearly perfectly clean. if there was traces of machining oil inside the bolt hole on the ring gear, the lock tite aint gonna do squat.
Click to expand...
I agree, use brake cleaner or some other kind of solvent to get rid of any oil residue before applying loctite and tightening it up.
 
Sometimes stuff does happen. A friend of mine who is a certified mechanic had his bolts back out of his D35 ring gear and he didn't catch it like you have and it sheared off 3 bolt heads that promptly jammed between his ring and housing and locked up the rear axle completly. He had cleaned everything completely and used new bolts with loctite yet it still happened.
 
Randy's ok, but you mean you trust people at 4WP?
Pietro said:
inspect all other diff parts. bad bearing could cause vibration under load, or improper setup might be causing vibration. call a r&p tech at randys or 4wheel parts
Click to expand...
 
i always purchase gear parts from randy's. great service, great products. i never called 4wheel parts for gear advice but i know they have a specific salesmen for just gearing needs. maybe someone sells those locking tabs for ring gear bolts. if it is on a 9" rear, there a lot of parts for circle track cars and racing parts that most of us never see because there isnt a high demand for them in the 4wheeling world
 
Ok heres were the info gets sketchy, The manual that came with my precision gears and dana gears from 4 wheel parts wholesalers says torque is 50 to 60 in/lbs. The FACTORY manual says its 70 to 90 in/lbs. I went 60 in/lbs on them the first time and they backed out. Then I went 90 on them the second time with another set of bolt. They were used but thats another story. The first time bolts have all backed out, the second time bolts are still in the rear, and I will be using fresh bolts in the front this time. I will also be tie-wiring these bolts and using stud&bearing mount loctite which will make them stay in for ever!!! I was just wondering if anybody else had ever had this problem. I have set up 12 sets of gears and mine are the only ones to fail! And both front and rear is like somethin out of the twilight zone.
 
Did you lap the back-side of the ring gear prior to install?Also how do you seat the gear?
 
I know that some ring gears are very tight on the carrier and need to be heated to be installed to avoid damage from pounding them on. Was it possible that the ring gear was not properly seated on the carrier? Then, after use settled in and gave the bolts some slop? Do the ring gear bolts have the little barbed flange under the head to prevent backing? Just a few thoughts:) Good luck.

FUNKYTEE5
 
I am back on the road $200.00 dollars lighter but new r&p installed with proper torque specs, .006 inch backlash, and an awesome pattern and red loctite. Well see what happens. One things for sure will probably be checking it more often. Something else I noticed is the dana bolts have a bigger head and little anti-back off grooves machined into them. Also randy's ring and pinion says that they torque all of there ring gear bolts to 100 ft/lbs!! See you guys in calico and thanx for all the responses.
 
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