running light/interior light issue

[Backroads]

Little history. 00 XJ, 4.0, lift bla bla, no recent wiring, installations or anything done but drive it.

One evening I stopped by the parents, left it idle in the driveway for about 10 mins. Came back out and my interior lights were out (cluster lights and heater control lights) my dome lights and radio still are fine.

After getting randomly pulled over after dark, the cop told me all my running lights were out

After sneaking through that and getting home to investigate I have no running lights, just headlights. brake lights work, and turn signals work as well as 4 ways.

fuses are all good. Was the first thing I checked.

So I bought a new headlight switch, didnt change a thing. After messing with it i found out that if I pull the switch just past half way (which normally turns on running lights) I can hit a sweet spot where they come on, but its just an in between spot. Same thing with both switches.


So after researching the crap out of this I've found a ton of threads with the same problem and not ONE SINGLE SOLUTION!

Anyone got anything for me?! Even if i have to rig something up just so I can drive after dark

[joe_peters]

Actually, there is a solution.

Buy a better headlight switch.

The cheap a** aftermarket head light switches for the XJ are FAMOUS for this problem.

Search a lot. Another poster went through a bunch of aftermarket switches and finally determined how to visually differentiate between those that work and those that don't. Or go buy one from the dealer.

[casm]

Originally Posted by joe_peters

Another poster went through a bunch of aftermarket switches and finally determined how to visually differentiate between those that work and those that don't. Or go buy one from the dealer.

This.

I wasn't the person who originally had this issue, but I can say that I went through this exact problem about three years ago. Three different aftermarket switches from Autozone, Kragen (now O'Reilly's), and Pep Boys - despite coming from three different manufacturers - all exhibited exactly the same bad behaviour. One bite-the-bullet trip later to the dealer for a replacement, and the problem remains solved.

[ue1337?]

Just had this same issue--after I tried removing the pull knob incorrectly to disassemble the dash--pushed (pried) the wrong "button," now I have to do the ol' partial pull to get running lights--brake and signals all work with headlights, etc.

Just bought a new switch online that is being delivered today--I'll let you know how it goes; likewise, maybe I can figure out what I did to the original switch and put it back together.

Called the stealership--$101.33 for a new switch?!

[ue1337?]

As expected, that aftermarket switch Standard Motor Products DS357T didn't work...

[casm]

Originally Posted by ue1337?

Called the stealership--$101.33 for a new switch?!

jeep "powered by trademotion"

Copy the above line completely, including the quotes. Paste it into Google and hit the search button; the majority of the results you'll get are for places selling OEM parts.

The Chrysler part number for the headlamp switch is 56009869AB; plug that in to the part number searches on the Google results. You'll have to do some comparison shopping, but I'm finding it closer to the $60-$65 mark.

[ue1337?]

Thanks--I'm still searching for the aforementioned post:

"Search a lot. Another poster went through a bunch of aftermarket switches and finally determined how to visually differentiate between those that work and those that don't. Or go buy one from the dealer. "

[wgregt]

I've got the same problem on my 88 XJ (see "lights out" topic header subject).

Was wondering if you came up with a solution. Also, if you have tips/how to on R&R'ing the headlight switch, I'd listen to that too!