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bolt broke in yoke options

4x4JeePmaNthINg

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Colorado
so i was installing my 3link and managed to snap a bolt in the friggin yoke.

I figure you all might have some options I can consider. I know most might say drill and tap, but I know its not the only option. Is it worth considering other yokes/U straps, or just hawg this thing out?
 
Just to make sure, your talking about a pinion or t-case yoke? Just drill it out (under-sized) and get a Easy-out. If your really concerned get some heat and some Liquid Wrench on it (not at the same time).
 
What was the reason for the snap? Overtightened the leetle bolt? Or did you cross-thread it?

If the first is the situation then an EZ-Out might be the ticket, but if the second, don't even think of trying the EZ-Out. Odds are good you will snap and break it off too, and if there is one thing an EZ-Out doesn't do it is to come out easily.

My favorite technique for removing broken bolts is to weld a nut to the top of the remainder, but that assumes having a welder handy, and it is not a solution for all situations.
 
Depending on which yoke your talking about you may be able to just drill it out and replace the bolt/strap with a u-bolt which is considered a up-grade.
 
pinion yoke on the front. it was over-tightened/shock loaded in by my DA, but it fed in clean until I broke it.

I do have a welder, but I'm a bit hesitant about gluing a nut on and having it weld to the yoke. Ill have to look again, but I believe it broke at a slant.
 
pinion yoke on the front. it was over-tightened/shock loaded in by my DA, but it fed in clean until I broke it.

I do have a welder, but I'm a bit hesitant about gluing a nut on and having it weld to the yoke. Ill have to look again, but I believe it broke at a slant.

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You can easily buy and change out a yoke.
 
It is best practice to run yokes with U-bolts as opposed to bolts/straps. Replacing the D30 yoke with a U-bolt version (and pinion seal, while you're there) would be the best solution.

I've removed many broken bolts using my mig welder to attach a nut to the severed fastener. One as small as a pinion yoke strap bolt might be challenging, as there isn't much bolt surface to weld the nut to.

You could pull the yoke, try the weld removal method and if that is unsuccessful, chock the yoke up a drill press vise and drill out the bolt, then tap the bolt hole a size larger.......or just upgrade to a U-bolt style yoke. :thumbup:
 
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I had the same thing happen to me but on my rear diff yoke. I couldn’t get to it under the Jeep, so my dad suggested I pull it. He put it in a drill press face down and drilled from the back. This backed what was left of the bolt out without messing up the threads and I simply put a new bolt in. If you really want u bolts and don’t want to buy a new yoke, you can drill the holes out and ghetto fab it that way, just make sure there are enough threads on the u bolts to keep it tight. Hope this helps.


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I know that drilling out a yoke and installing U-bolts is regarded as an acceptable practice, but do note that the holes for U-bolts and the holes for bolts/straps are on different centerlines. This means that if you run U-bolts on a bolt/strap yoke you are not getting the full support of the U-bolts that you would get on a U-bolt yoke.

I am not aware of a rash of failures due to the mismatch in specs. The difference may not matter. Unless you are like me and it offends your CDO.
 
If you take the yoke off, you can drill the bolt from the back side witrh a smaller drill bit and it , and it will screw it out
 
I know that drilling out a yoke and installing U-bolts is regarded as an acceptable practice, but do note that the holes for U-bolts and the holes for bolts/straps are on different centerlines. This means that if you run U-bolts on a bolt/strap yoke you are not getting the full support of the U-bolts that you would get on a U-bolt yoke.

I am not aware of a rash of failures due to the mismatch in specs. The difference may not matter. Unless you are like me and it offends your CDO.
Good to know, I haven't heard of this before. Sounds like it would have to be milled properly if its possible.
 
Your doing this on a D30 ? One with shims instead of a crush sleeve? and I always use a new nut when doing that job.Some Red Loctite could be Ok too.
 
FYI I got a new u-bolt yoke from 4 wheel parts for less than $50 and i believe it came with the ubolts. The 30 does not use a crush washer so you can just R&R the yokes as an option.
 
FYI I got a new u-bolt yoke from 4 wheel parts for less than $50 and i believe it came with the ubolts. The 30 does not use a crush washer so you can just R&R the yokes as an option.

Oh yes they do, I own 2 of them!
 
Well, crush washer or not, you are gonna have to either remove it and put a new one on, or remove it and repair it.....

At this point, either way, it's sounds like it's probably gonna have to come off
 
Well, crush washer or not, you are gonna have to either remove it and put a new one on, or remove it and repair it.....

At this point, either way, it's sounds like it's probably gonna have to come off

Not a problem, I just need to make sure its back on correctly, Ill be putting some serious miles on soon. As stated already its a HPd30 so no crush sleeve.

Ive recently read that some suggest replacing the pinion nut, is this some voodoo bs or worthwhile?
 
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