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Old June 3rd, 2019, 11:27
lazyxj's Avatar
lazyxj lazyxj is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Los Angeles
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Re: Fan bearing - replace?

Originally Posted by mhead View Post

Someone at a previous point in this thread mentions NSK 885586 which Amazon shows as somehow related to Omix-Ada 17104.83. I'm going to try this one.
I bought a NSK 885586 off eBay, it was not a genuine NSK bearing. It was loose out of the box, just like the Omix-Ada bearing.
Buying the NSK from a bearing house might give a better chance of getting the real deal. It's too much work to replace with a cheap part.
Motion Industries is a nation-wide, old school bearing house that I have been buying from for decades.
Both XJs are still Real XJs
01 Sport, Russ Pottenger 4.6, AW4, 4" lift, 33 X 10.50 KM2, 4.56-8.25 TruTrac, D-30-E-Locker with alloy shafts, Hidden M8000 winch, Vanco front and ZJ rear disc brakes, Frame stiffeners, Lots of armor, Towing baseplate.
1997 Country, Mostly stock, 2" lift, Engine mods, NP242, Towing baseplate
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Old June 8th, 2019, 13:10
mhead mhead is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Encinitas, CA
Posts: 448
Re: Fan bearing - replace?

Purchased Nsk 885586 Integral Shaft/Water Pump Bearing off Amazon from some third party. Packing slip that arrived with bearing Show source as

Locate Ball Bearings
75090 St. Charles Pl, Suite B
Palm Desert, CA 92211

Bearing arrived in a zip lock bag without mfgr markings.
I guess it is NSK 885586. Packing slip says it is.

In any event this bearing is tight and quiet when it operates. Fits my 1992 XJ 4.0 with A/C.

Installation takes about 3 hours.
Remove Battery
Remove metal panel above radiator
Remove electric fan
Remove fan belt
Unbolt 4 A/C compressor bolts.
Without breaking hoses to A/C gently lift it and place on top of radiator hose.
Loosen 3 X 14 mm bolts that hold fan assy to motor.
If you are lucky lucky the 15 mm bolt and nut has the nut on the radiator side.
If so you can remove this nut with box wrench up under the fan pulley.
If not, disassemble the Jeep beginning at the gas tank.
With this bolt out and the 3 others the fan assy and shroud can be easily lifted clear.

You must have a press for the bearing swap.
You must have a die grinder with a carbide wheel

Measure distance from bottom of fan boss to some relevant point on the fan assembly. You'll need this distance later when pressing the boss onto the new bearing.

Remove fan and fan clutch by removing 4 bolts on studs in boss.
Remove studs from boss.
Press boss off bearing shaft. You can't use a gear puller. Boss is too tight.
I did this trick with a large bearing splitter. My splitter will close under the boss. The splitter has two threaded holes that parallel the bearing shaft when splitter is installed under boss. I place threaded rods into these and pass these through the press table, securing with plates that bridge the table. In this way the bearing shaft is vertical and suspended below the press table. I press the boss off with a rod from press through table and onto bearing shaft.

Once boss is off the bearing can be pressed from the aluminum fan housing buy pressing on bearing shaft and supporting the housing on a deep well socket from opposite side.

Longer shaft of new bearing must be cut to proper length for fan. Shorter shaft will be OK within the aluminum housing. Be careful here to get the correct length. Try to get the cut 90 degrees across the shaft. Grind a bevel into shaft after cut. Take care here or otherwise when you press the boss back on it will go crooked.

Press new bearing into aluminum housing. Don't press on bearing shaft. Find the proper size deep well socket to press on bearing outer case.

Press boss on by pressing on bearing shaft. Get the proper position.

Reinstall all.

This took about 3 hours and I've done it twice before. There is a learning curve.

Bottom line is purchase NSK 885586 and not the Omix-Ada. Omix-Ada is loose and sounds like a rusty skateboard wheel when it runs.
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Old June 9th, 2019, 05:52
Anak's Avatar
Anak Anak is offline
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: In a strange land
Posts: 3,584
Re: Fan bearing - replace?

Nicely done.

I particularly like this line:

If not, disassemble the Jeep beginning at the gas tank.
Every one of those I have pulled has had the nut on the back.
Project "Scope Creep": 1996 4wd 4.0L, AX15

The "Varmint-Mobile": 1997 ZJ Laredo, 4wd, 4.0L, Slushbox
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Old June 9th, 2019, 08:33
mhead mhead is offline
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Location: Encinitas, CA
Posts: 448
Re: Fan bearing - replace?

Ugg! If the nut is on the transmission side the bolt can not be withdrawn since it hits the fan pulley. In this case the fan must be removed from the boss while still in the jeep. This is a real pain. Also even after the 4 nuts are removed the fan assemblyy may still not have enough clearance to be removed from the boss. The fan may hit the radiator before it clears the boss studs. This is just a real pain. I've done it this way as well before I realized that the bolt can be installed installed with nut towards the radiator.

I've driven the new NSK bearing now and it is remarkable how much more quietly the Jeep runs.
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