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OEM (-) battery cable has 6 (8?) gauge wire to body, replacement I have is 10, prob?
- Thread starter akxj01
- Start date
The wire I am referring to is the smaller of the two wires coming from the negative battery post. The larger one is 4 gauge, while the smaller one is 8 gauge I think (goes to unibody right next to battery) and the one I just bought is 10 gauge. I should just get the right replacement, I picked up the wrong one by mistake.
I was just thinking someone might reply and write that I wouldn't have a problem using the 10 gauge unless I had a bunch of accessories drawing a huge amount of amps and being grounded to the unibody, then through the smaller wire going to the negative battery terminal. I am just being lazy, as I could have calculated myself.
I 'll just get the right one.
5-90
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hammerspace
It should not.
The primary ground for the chassis is by way of the braided strap from the firewall to the cylinder head - the direct chassis ground is secondary. However, it does help to have it somewhere near the same gage as the primary ground (I believe the braided ground strap works out to be about a 10-8AWG or so...) in the event it becomes contaminated beyond utility.
Adding that chassis ground is one of the small number of things that ChryCo engineers did that I like - AMC should have done it, but they never really have on anything (that I recall. Odd...) It was less of a problem with points & condensers, but the electronics make it critical to maintain a solid ground return. That's why I've got it as an option on RENIX kits.
More critical is to make sure you clean the contact patch for the lug (and the lug itself, if need be) down to bare metal and apply a corrosion inhibitor like Ox-Gard (find it - or something similar - in the electrical section at your local hardware store. Please, for the love of Gawd and all you hold Holy, do not RPT NOT use WD-40! It is not and has never been intended for electrical use, and it will cause more trouble than you're trying to correct!)
The primary ground for the chassis is by way of the braided strap from the firewall to the cylinder head - the direct chassis ground is secondary. However, it does help to have it somewhere near the same gage as the primary ground (I believe the braided ground strap works out to be about a 10-8AWG or so...) in the event it becomes contaminated beyond utility.
Adding that chassis ground is one of the small number of things that ChryCo engineers did that I like - AMC should have done it, but they never really have on anything (that I recall. Odd...) It was less of a problem with points & condensers, but the electronics make it critical to maintain a solid ground return. That's why I've got it as an option on RENIX kits.
More critical is to make sure you clean the contact patch for the lug (and the lug itself, if need be) down to bare metal and apply a corrosion inhibitor like Ox-Gard (find it - or something similar - in the electrical section at your local hardware store. Please, for the love of Gawd and all you hold Holy, do not RPT NOT use WD-40! It is not and has never been intended for electrical use, and it will cause more trouble than you're trying to correct!)
derrickdrew17
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Duncanville
Thanks for the Info 5-90.. Im thinking on takeing a grinder to the spot where the Neg ground goes to and from the battery. and from the fire wall to the motor. make sure it has the best ground.
wim hoppenbrouwers
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Netherlands europe
Hallo.
I used welding cable with crimped and soldered lugs. Click on pic to see other 2 pics.
And clean contacts as 5-90 advices. Also I use a Ohm meter to control the resistance.!
'92 XJ
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