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3.5 inch lift

Hack Kickthrust

NAXJA Forum User
Location
ID
I am looking to get a complete kit to lift my 1992 briarwood 3-4 inches. Currently looking at the Rubicon Express super flex short arm( http://www.rubiconexpress.com/Suspe...HORT ARM&Manufacturer_PQ=Rubicon Express#tab3 ) . This bad mama is my daily driver so I have to be able to knock this whole dang ol deal out in one weekend.

My questions are:

1. Is there a complete list of every bolt and bushing and nut or anything else that I will need to accomplish this? I cant have the thing in pieces waiting on a part come Monday.

2. Is there a better more complete lift I should be looking at?

3. Do you have any recommendations for cheap steel wheels?

4. Anything else I should take care of while I'm in in there? This baby is bone stock except for custom cut length PVC pipe rear lift gate brace and a Bahama Breeze vent clip air freshener.
d43c4f89e4c2717d062ec60c6372d4ff.jpg


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Are you just looking to gain a little clearance for tires, just want to refresh stuff or build it to wheel?

What's your budget?

Don't know if there's list of every bolt but it's fairly straight forward. Talking form experience always expect something else to be needed and it taking longer than normal. Something always breaks or you're going to find something that you're going to want to replace now instead of later.

I'd personally go with a full leaf pack versus and AAL for a lift. You can also look at building a bastard pack (search if your don't know what they are) and a shackle relocation kit.
https://www.ironman4x4fab.com/product-page/xj-shackle-relocation-brackets-bare-steel

IRO makes quality stuff at a decent price
https://www.ironrockoffroad.com/product/xj-3-premium-short-arm-lift-kit.html

There's also a "junkyard" lift basically taking stock parts from other vehicles to lift the XJ

I'd also replace the track bar (included with the IRO kit) regardless of what lift.

I'd also swap out a tierod for either the ZJ or a solid one. The stock tie rod is junk on a XJ.

Almost all steelies are the same, just select for proper backspacing and you'll be good.
 
Thats a good starter lift kit (first one I did on my old 94 was the same kit).

In addition to what they include here's what you'll need:

1. Track bar. I'd go with their double shear one with the new frame-end bracket. Future proof it now if you can.
2. Shocks. Bilstein 5100's would be my recommendation
3. If your rear axle is anything other than a Dana 35, the U-bolts they include won't fit.
4. PB Blaster. Blast the hell out of the hardware for a few days before just to help with any rust.

On the wheels steelies are steelies. Just get whatever the tire shop can get you the best deal on.
 
I don't believe there is a kit out there that is "complete". Definitely go with full packs, you will probably need shocks also.
 
Pretty mild wheeling, I use this guy for camping and hunting and the closer I can get before I have to start hoofing it the better, but also I have to drive it come Monday so I can't be out there getting silly and snapping stuff.

Budget is probably under 3 grand. I think I would have a hard time justifying spending more than that.

I was looking at the RE with the full leaf pack replacement.
The IRO lift for the 8.25 rear, quick discos, and the full leaf pack is 1269.97. That is versus 1108.99 for all of the same stuff for the RE at quadratec. Would you still go with the IRO?

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knock the windows out and chop the top off. Anything else is Busch league.








Just kidding! Have fun. XJs are the shiz

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Thats a good starter lift kit (first one I did on my old 94 was the same kit).

In addition to what they include here's what you'll need:

1. Track bar. I'd go with their double shear one with the new frame-end bracket. Future proof it now if you can.
2. Shocks. Bilstein 5100's would be my recommendation
3. If your rear axle is anything other than a Dana 35, the U-bolts they include won't fit.
4. PB Blaster. Blast the hell out of the hardware for a few days before just to help with any rust.

On the wheels steelies are steelies. Just get whatever the tire shop can get you the best deal on.

1. http://www.rubiconexpress.com/Suspension/Track-Bars.aspx?t_c=1&t_s=101&t_pt=4164 this one here?

2. The lift without the monotube shocks is only like 780 bucks and the bilstiens seem to be able 70 a piece if im looking at the right ones so thats a good deal.

3. 8.25 So I will need these? http://www.rubiconexpress.com/Suspe...5.aspx?t_c=1&t_s=101&t_pt=5504&t_pn=R/ERE1225 is there a way to tell if they are long enough? I ran into that issue when I lifted that ramcharger

4. Will do

https://www.quadratec.com/p/tactik/d-window-classic-wheel-vehicles-5-x-45-bolt-pattern#&gid=1&pid=1

Thinking about these for wheels they have a 4 inch back space but I don't really know how to tell what I need :/ should i get the 8 or 10? fatter would be more fun right but I'm not sure if I will have to hack into it or not going that wide
 
knock the windows out and chop the top off. Anything else is Busch league.








Just kidding! Have fun. XJs are the shiz

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Man this is my first XJ and I'm so into it now im looking for a 2 door 5 speed to exactly that too.
This one has to be able to pack a baby around in however.
 
Some info that might help -

Bolts - Depending how rusted yours are and you want to replace - Lower Control Arms - M14 x 2 mm thread pitch. LCA to axle is 111.6 mm. LCA to frame, 105 mm long. Metric grade 10.9 . I subbed 9/16 -grade 8 since they were easier to find. Upper's M10x1.5x80mm . I think I subbed 3/8" grade 8's when I had short arms.

I highly recommend getting a torch to be able to heat up the bolts to get them out!


I second getting an adjustable track bar - I went with the Iron Rock Offroad one

You might also look into getting a shackle relocation bracket. it made a huge difference in shackle angle and ride quality. I went with the one from HD Offroad - https://hdoffroadengineering.myshopify.com/products/xj-shackle-relocation-kit . They also have a no-lift relocation bracket as well

You might get some driveline vibes - a tcase drop might be some good insurance - since they are cheap, only around $30.00.
 
4. PB Blaster. Blast the hell out of the hardware for a few days before just to help with any rust.

^This.

Some of us have had little trouble getting bolts out, for others (like myself), there's always a couple that will be a major battle (for me, that was the front leaf spring bolts).

Any bolt going through a bushing (leaf springs, control arms, etc.)should be hit
on both sides of the bushing with PB or whatever your penetrant of choice happens to be.

Good luck, and post a pic when it's all back together!
 
Man this is my first XJ and I'm so into it now im looking for a 2 door 5 speed to exactly that too.
This one has to be able to pack a baby around in however.

I get it. Good luck finding a 2 door!
 
Some info that might help -



Bolts - Depending how rusted yours are and you want to replace - Lower Control Arms - M14 x 2 mm thread pitch. LCA to axle is 111.6 mm. LCA to frame, 105 mm long. Metric grade 10.9 . I subbed 9/16 -grade 8 since they were easier to find. Upper's M10x1.5x80mm . I think I subbed 3/8" grade 8's when I had short arms.



I highly recommend getting a torch to be able to heat up the bolts to get them out!





I second getting an adjustable track bar - I went with the Iron Rock Offroad one



You might also look into getting a shackle relocation bracket. it made a huge difference in shackle angle and ride quality. I went with the one from HD Offroad - https://hdoffroadengineering.myshopify.com/products/xj-shackle-relocation-kit . They also have a no-lift relocation bracket as well



You might get some driveline vibes - a tcase drop might be some good insurance - since they are cheap, only around $30.00.
This is super helpful, I should find all of these bolts and order the t case drop just to be on the safe side.

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QUOTE=IslanderOffRoad;246647638]Thats a good starter lift kit (first one I did on my old 94 was the same kit). *

In addition to what they include here's what you'll need:

1. Track bar.* I'd go with their double shear one with the new frame-end bracket.* Future proof it now if you can.
2. Shocks.* Bilstein 5100's would be my recommendation
3. If your rear axle is anything other than a Dana 35, the U-bolts they include won't fit. *
4. PB Blaster.* Blast the hell out of the hardware for a few days before just to help with any rust.

On the wheels steelies are steelies.* Just get whatever the tire shop can get you the best deal on.[/QUOTE]

1.*http://www.rubiconexpress.com/Suspension/Track-Bars.aspx?t_c=1&t_s=101&t_pt=4164*this one here?

2. The lift without the monotube shocks is only like 780 bucks and the bilstiens seem to be able 70 a piece if im looking at the right ones so thats a good deal.

3. 8.25 So I will need these?*http://www.rubiconexpress.com/Suspe...spx?t_c=1&t_s=101&t_pt=5504&t_pn=R/ERE1225*is there a way to tell if they are long enough? I ran into that issue when I lifted that ramcharger

4. Will do

https://www.quadratec.com/p/tactik/d-window-classic-wheel-vehicles-5-x-45-bolt-pattern#&gid=1&pid=1

Thinking about these for wheels they have a 4 inch back space but I don't really know how to tell what I need :/ Should I get the 8 or 10? Fatter would be more fun right but I'm not sure if I will have to hack into it or not going that wide.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 
QUOTE=IslanderOffRoad;246647638]Thats a good starter lift kit (first one I did on my old 94 was the same kit). *

In addition to what they include here's what you'll need:

1. Track bar.* I'd go with their double shear one with the new frame-end bracket.* Future proof it now if you can.
2. Shocks.* Bilstein 5100's would be my recommendation
3. If your rear axle is anything other than a Dana 35, the U-bolts they include won't fit. *
4. PB Blaster.* Blast the hell out of the hardware for a few days before just to help with any rust.

On the wheels steelies are steelies.* Just get whatever the tire shop can get you the best deal on.

1.*http://www.rubiconexpress.com/Suspension/Track-Bars.aspx?t_c=1&t_s=101&t_pt=4164*this one here?

2. The lift without the monotube shocks is only like 780 bucks and the bilstiens seem to be able 70 a piece if im looking at the right ones so thats a good deal.

3. 8.25 So I will need these?*http://www.rubiconexpress.com/Suspe...spx?t_c=1&t_s=101&t_pt=5504&t_pn=R/ERE1225*is there a way to tell if they are long enough? I ran into that issue when I lifted that ramcharger

4. Will do

https://www.quadratec.com/p/tactik/d-window-classic-wheel-vehicles-5-x-45-bolt-pattern#&gid=1&pid=1

Thinking about these for wheels they have a 4 inch back space but I don't really know how to tell what I need :/ Should I get the 8 or 10? Fatter would be more fun right but I'm not sure if I will have to hack into it or not going that wide.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk[/QUOTE]

RE1660 is the track bar. It says for 4" and up but their 3.5" sits a bit tall anyway.

Their U bolts should be long enough for their leaf packs as they're likely made specifically for it, but if you're worried you could buy the 10" long ones from Ruffstuff: https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/UB3.html

I'd go 8" wide on the wheel unless you're going really wide with the tire.
 
I did the RE 3.5 last year in mine. You can get the kits with track bar, different shock packages etc. I did the short arm super ride setup with quick disconnects also. You will probably need a SYE also. I have been very happy with mine and my use is similar to what you described.
 
you're gonna love it dude! get that puppy lifted! I'm running Rubicon short arm as well.

what tires you looking to run? 31's will take you places.
 
Definatley get a good adjustable track bar. I run the steinjager double adjustable. Research the shocks, you can find bilsteins cheap if they're not listed as a Xj shock, lol. my front bilsteins are for the rear of a Tacoma and less $$$. On a daily driver running a short arm you may want to consider control arm drop brackets so salvage some ride quality.
 
I'm running 3.5 inches of lift with short arms and 5100 bilsteins on my daily driven XJ and Im wishing I would have just went with a long arm or 3 link setup for a smoother on road ride.
 
I'm running 3.5 inches of lift with short arms and 5100 bilsteins on my daily driven XJ and Im wishing I would have just went with a long arm or 3 link setup for a smoother on road ride.

Drop brackets would help the ride but they really need at least 4" of lift so the control arms have a bit of positive drop.
IMO, the 5100s ride hard with light loads. It was a world of difference when they were switched out for Bilstein 5160s, it's only money.
 
Bilstein runs the same pressure in all their 5100 series I'm pretty sure. I've read that rancho rs7000's run less initial pressure therefore giving a less harsh ride than the bilsteins. I'd like to try those next time.
 
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