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long arm upgrade?

jeepnleo

NAXJA Forum User
Location
oak harbor wa
i have seen some companies like rusty and RE who sales just the long arm part of there suspension.

basically it doesnt include the springs shocks etc.

now to my question. what is the minimum amount of lift you need ot have to use the long arm upgrades?
 
Rock crawler. RE . tnt. others also.
it really depends on the way the arms are made. like the tnt it mounts to a crossmember and the frame rails arent in the way. and the rock krawler one you have to remover the stock lower arm bracket. my guess is that with the tnt kit you could have 3.5 inch lift anf the rock krawler you'd need 4.5. thats my thought. if i'm wrong someone correct me
 
I would think you could run a longarm on stock. Height should not matter when putting on new CA's long or short. Seem logical to me but who knows.
 
ColoradoRaptor said:
I would think you could run a longarm on stock. Height should not matter when putting on new CA's long or short. Seem logical to me but who knows.

You also have to consider clearances of the bent arms (esp when articulating). Maybe they won't hit anything stock but that would worry me.
 
ColoradoRaptor said:
I would think you could run a longarm on stock. Height should not matter when putting on new CA's long or short. Seem logical to me but who knows.

Depends on how they mount. Any Long arm that mounts on the fram rail will have issues with the Arms hitting the frame rails when flexing, possibly even driving. Plus there is no reason to go to long arms with a stock setup, the whole Idea of long arms is to put the control arms back to or close to stock angles.

**Edit** For the origional poster, I would recomend 4", I'm at 4" and barely clear the frame rails on full compression with 33s any smaller tire and I would have the up travel and probably be hitting the frame rail with the arms.
 
WaXJ_Skier said:
Depends on how they mount. Any Long arm that mounts on the fram rail will have issues with the Arms hitting the frame rails when flexing, possibly even driving. Plus there is no reason to go to long arms with a stock setup, the whole Idea of long arms is to put the control arms back to or close to stock angles.

**Edit** For the origional poster, I would recomend 4", I'm at 4" and barely clear the frame rails on full compression with 33s any smaller tire and I would have the up travel and probably be hitting the frame rail with the arms.

Yes, you really have to watch the frame. I know that its really close especially with RK 3link setup.
 
I bought mine from BDS. They use these with their 4.5" lift up to the 8" lift.

DSC03831.jpg
 
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