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replacement for discontinued Valvoline High Mileage engine oil

the_bandit87

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Sydney,NS
I dunno if this has been talked about on here yet but, I am just about to do my oil change and I had to go all over around town to find enough of the Valvoline High Mileage 10w30 that I have used since I got the XJ (it always had valvoline before that) and in talking to a guy I know who works at walmart, found out that the conventional High Mileage Oil has been discontinued, its all full Synthetic or Synthetic blend. my engine dosn't have a lot of kilometers on it (just hit 247k the other day) but it is 21 years old, and has been using the same type of oil for most of its existance. I have heard stories that sometimes if you start running synthetic or even if you change brands that you seals can start leaking, and I also remember a while back reading a thread guys loosing new cams on built OHV motors because the new oil out there dosn't have as much Zinc and some other additives. I remember from that thread that Valvoline High Mileeage was one of the only oils which still had these additives. Anyways, what I am wondering is if anyone has changed over to their blend or full synth and how thats gone for them. I also remember talk about using Shell Rotella T Diesel oil as that still had zinc content. If anyone has switched over to this stuff I'd also like to hear how it went for them. I know I'm going to have to switch over to a new oil for my next change, I just want to avoid having some of my seals go bad.
 
I think castrol has a high mileage blend also.
Honestly tho i think if your engine is running properly, aslong as u use the correct weight and good brand of oil you should be fine.
Valvoline, Castrol..all good brands.

Pete
 
I read all the stories about switching but decided to do it anyway and fix what leaked. Nothing leaked. '93 with 110k miles when I made the swap. 115k now.
 
i just bought it last week at advanced auto parts. i think the valvoline durablend is proabably the same stuff though. the prices are exactly the same.
 
If you already have an oil leak - big or small - then a synthetic oil can only make it worse, as it will clean the sludge around the seals.

However if you aren't leaking at all, then chances are you'll be fine. It won't cause leaks remember, just reveal them.

I've been using Mobil 1 for 10,000 KM's and sofar no blown cam.
 
We have three XJ's, '92, '95, and '96. The '92 never burned or leaked a drop until, thinking it would increase MPG, I put in a synthetic blend, at about 170k miles. By the time the next change was due, there was almost nothing left to drain! I have since used mostly Castrol 'high mile' oil in it, and now with over 200k miles, it has, for the most part, stemmed the flow. I tried the high mile stuff in the '96, as it has the usual rear main seal moistness, but all it did was cause the lifters to tap (it doesn't bother the '92 because I replaced the lifters and rocker arms @ 130k- most of them were gummed up and not pumping up). So, high mile CAN work, if it doesn't cause other side effects. I always use Castrol, and other than the noisy lifters in the '92, which were probably caused by neglect by the previous owner, I have never had an oil issue in over thirty-five years of driving. The '95 gushes like the Exxon Valdes, mostly because it's an ex- cop car, and although it didn't have many miles on it when we got it, you know it spent it's life idling. Nothing short of a new rear main seal will help this pup! Just a few observations.......
 
If you already have an oil leak - big or small - then a synthetic oil can only make it worse, as it will clean the sludge around the seals.

However if you aren't leaking at all, then chances are you'll be fine. It won't cause leaks remember, just reveal them.(quote)

I've only ever used Mobil 1. I have 2 XJ's and a 93 Toyota Corolla. My 94 Xj has had the switch at 74000 miles. Now is at 136,000 no leaks. My 96 is at 131000 just picked it up and is getting Mobil 1. If it leaks I fix what was already broke and was being covered up by the thing you don't want in an engine, SLUDGE. My 93 Yota had 141,000 miles and was badly abused and neglected. I've given it some exhaust, CV axles, and Mobil 1. Valve cover leak is all and is pulling 34-35 MPG, all highway. By the way valve cover was already seeping before I had it given to me. All depends if you are ready to take care of the real problem (sludgy oil) or just continue covering it up with cheap oil and hope the sludge won't break loose. P.S. Not all cheap oil is bad.
 
I don't understand the synthetic oil leak myth. What is the reasoning behind this. I have only heard old timers talk about this. Synthetic oil has been nothing but a great thing for all my vehicles that get it. I have owned more than 50 cars, trucks, vans, race cars, boats, etc. and I've never had synthetic oil cause a leak.

To the original poster... Use Mobil 1 synthetic and don't worry about it.
 
As the original poster said, it's not the synthetic that's the problem, it's the ZDDP. I don't know to what degree it's a problem on Jeep engines: my book says the valve springs should have a test pressure of 210 lbs @ 1.2 inches, but that's got to be some kind of conversion, there's no way it's 210 lbs of actual seat pressure.

Regardless, if you're concerned about babying your engine, it is a concern.

HRDP_0606_10_zflat_tappet_cam_techz.jpg


Even Mobil recognizes the issue:

Does Mobil 1 Contain the Additive for Flat Tappet Cams?
I build a few engines a year as I do muscle car repairs and I have been having a lot of camshaft failures. I just read that it is because the oil no longer has the additive for flat tappet cams. Can I use Mobil 1 to break in fresh rebuilt engines of '60s and '70s tech? Is it too slippery for new ring break-in? Will it give protection on new cam and lifters?

Answer:
For older, flat tappet engines where wear may be more of a concern, we offer a number of oil products which are higher in phosphorus than API SM/ILSAC GF-4 oils. These include Mobil 1 15W-50, Mobil 1 Extended Performance 15W-50 (1200 ppm phosphorus), Mobil 1 0W-40 (1,000 ppm) and Mobil 1 High Mileage 10W-30 and 10W-40 (1000 ppm). For all newer engines and flat tappet engines in normal service, API SM/ISLAC GF-4 oils are preferred for better fuel economy and for the protection of catalytic systems with lower phosphorous (800 ppm).
 
stealth908 said:
I don't understand the synthetic oil leak myth. What is the reasoning behind this. I have only heard old timers talk about this. Synthetic oil has been nothing but a great thing for all my vehicles that get it. I have owned more than 50 cars, trucks, vans, race cars, boats, etc. and I've never had synthetic oil cause a leak.

To the original poster... Use Mobil 1 synthetic and don't worry about it.

You won't have a problem with Rotella T also. They both have lots of zinc and phosphorus (if you get the mobil1 extended performance kind). You will be fine with either one you choose.

If you get time to read...
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engine/flat_tappet_cam_tech/oil_summary.html
 
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