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Stock steering damper removal, the easy way!

xjtrailrider

NAXJA Forum User
NAXJA Member
Location
Roanoke VA
I have done a bunch of these and the longer they have been on there the harder they fight to stay on. I have used heat and a hammer, pickle forks, removed the whole drag link assembly and pressed them out, you name it-I've tried it!

My sons XJ needed a new one since the original had 200k+ on it and was puking oil out of it.

I tried a new method today that netted in a simple 10 minuet job.

Tools needed:
Side cutters to remove cotter pin
3/4" box end wrench to remove castle nut
4" angle grinder and cut off wheel
Ball joint press, you can rent the one I own from AutoZone or Advance Auto.
P1010517.jpg

First, remove the cotter pin and castle nut.

Cut off the shaft at the drag link end (as close as you can) with the cut off wheel.
P1010512.jpg


Place the ball joint press over the the drag link end of the damper and tighten the press. I used the 2" receiving cup to slip over the head of the damper. I tightened the press as tight as I could get it by hand with a 1/2" ratchet and when I went to get a breaker bar it popped loose while I was at the tool box!
P1010514.jpg

P1010515.jpg


Remove the axle end of the damper and install the new one. I use the Monroe brand and replace them every year or so. The replacements are much easier since the stud does not need to be removed from the drag link.
P1010518.jpg

P1010519.jpg


The "new" installed damper.
P1010520.jpg
 
Wierd, I didn't have any problem removing the stock stabilizer on mine that was there for 13 years.

Also why in the heck are you replacing it every year?

I've always had issues replacing the stock units, never the replacements.

They tend to not last much more than that
 
My stock OEM went at around 55K, puked all it's oil out. Replaced with a rancho. I did damage to my self trying to get it out, took it to a shop and it sounded like a gunshot when it let go.
 
I managed to wedge mine out with a pair a cold chisels. Replaced with the Rancho using the stud like the one pictured above.
 
Sorry to revive such an old thread, but I thought it better than starting a new one. xjtrailrider, did you have to cut off the shaft to get the ball joint press to go over it? And if so, how did you get the press rod to "center" if the part over the damper head was off-center due to the shaft stub?

Can anyone tell me what is a ball joint press rated for, as opposed to a pitman arm puller?

As I just posted over on Another Forum That Shall Not Be Named, I've used 2 cans of PB Blaster on this over the last couple weeks, propane-torched it until the metal turned white-ish and remaining rubber in the tube end melted and dripped off, hit it with BFH on side and nut/bolt so many times the threads are hopelessly mangled (a loosened but left-on castle nut just skipped threads), and have broken a 3-arm puller and two pitman arm pullers. The guys at HF are looking at me funny when I come in now.

I may try this ball joint press idea, or I may try cutting off the top of the bolt and drilling it out. Or I may just buy a new drag link. I am open to other ideas.
 
I wouldn't use a puller or press from Harbor Freight. They just can't stand the strain and you could be injured when they fail. Rent a decent TRE remover from the parts store, or invest in a quality one like OTC.

Good luck!

Greg
 
I've used those as well and broke a couple in the process.

I just removed my very rusted steering damper ball stud. I applied some cheap penetrating oil, left it overnight, then tried a normal (not hinged) TRE puller, and as I torqued it down the puller hooks actually started to separate and come off of the drag link....the ball stud was THAT rusted in place. I noticed that the Chrysler Puller tool C-3894-A called for in the service manual to do the job is a hinged puller...perhaps that keeps it from slipping off like mine did.
So I went to Autozone and got a loaner #27170 hinged puller (with two cross-bolts to prevent the hooks from separating, and a surface at the end of the screw shaft to bang on with a sledge hammer), then applied a 50/50 AFT/Acetone mixture to it, and torqued it up as far as I could without feeling as if I would damage it, then banged on it with a hammer, and the ball joint STILL wouldn't budge. However, I left the puller on there overnight, and by morning the ball stud popped out.
 
I just removed my very rusted steering damper ball stud. I applied some cheap penetrating oil, left it overnight, then tried a normal (not hinged) TRE puller, and as I torqued it down the puller hooks actually started to separate and come off of the drag link....the ball stud was THAT rusted in place. I noticed that the Chrysler Puller tool C-3894-A called for in the service manual to do the job is a hinged puller...perhaps that keeps it from slipping off like mine did.
So I went to Autozone and got a loaner #27170 hinged puller (with two cross-bolts to prevent the hooks from separating, and a surface at the end of the screw shaft to bang on with a sledge hammer), then applied a 50/50 AFT/Acetone mixture to it, and torqued it up as far as I could without feeling as if I would damage it, then banged on it with a hammer, and the ball joint STILL wouldn't budge. However, I left the puller on there overnight, and by morning the ball stud popped out.

50/50 ATF (Dexron)/Acetone mixture, I meant.
 
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