lift height vs. track bar length?

Hey folks:

'91 XJ 4WD.

I put some heavier springs on the front and rear, and the front is now lifted 2.25". I measured it by the "official" method ... from the top of the axle tube to the bottom of the "Frame" rail. I'm running LT235-75-15 tires.

Before lifting, the driving was very stable, and the front tires wore very evenly. Now it feels a little less stable ... a little more twitchy, and the front tires are wearing funny. They look like there is too much toe-in, plus the passenger tire is wearing more than the driver tire.

Also, when I look down the length of the vehicle, it appears to the naked eye that the entire front axle has moved to the driver's side about 1/2".

The twitchiness is probably caused by the caster change, which I will try to balance against pinion angle. If necessary I'll get some offset ball joints.

But the axle shift to the driver's side makes me think I need a longer track bar. Does that sound right? Should I get a track bar of specific length or an adjustable one? If I get an adjustable one, how should I go about adjusting it?

I've been working on cars & trucks for 38 years, but I've never done a lift before, and have a lot to learn. I was thinking maybe I could run a tight string off the rear brake drum faces to see that the font axle is properly centered ... or is there a better way?

Thanks for any help you can provide.

Because of the Y link design on the XJ, as you lift it, the toe in changes. You need to get that set or your tires will wear more quickly. Having the toe in set could help the way it goes down the road.

As you lift, the track bar length needs to change as well, otherwise your axle will shift from side to side.

As you lift, the caster also gets less. You may be able compensate slightly by using the shims on the lower control arms. But ideally you need to get it on an alignment rack if you are not confident in doing a tape measure alignment.

At 2.5" I would deal with the toe in first. The rest are probably good enough. You can do the toe in with a tape measure. Do a quick search on here and you will find out how to do it.

old_man said:

As you lift, the track bar length needs to change as well, otherwise your axle will shift from side to side.

Click to expand...

Thanks Old_Man for your explanations. How can I set the proper track bar length? Toe in should be no problem ... lots of writeups on that. Go Jeep's website has a good writeup on caster adjustment. What I'm worried most about is the front axle isn't centered. The driver's wheel is sticking out beyond the fender flare more than the passenger tire. I think the jeep is "Crabbing" down the road. I want the rear tires to travel in the same tracks as the front.

Adjustable track bar.

I like the JKS.

The thing I still don't know is ... how can I get the front axle centered? What do I measure off of? I was thinking of using a tight string off the outer face of the rear brake drums, but is there a better way?

Thanks.

Center the bump stops in the coils.

I measure frame rail to inside of tire to get trackbar set

Pick up IRO double shear TB setup with bracket.

montanaman said:

... how can I get the front axle centered? What do I measure off of ?

Click to expand...

Measure off the same points on both sides. Duct tape a 2x4 or some angle iron to each front tire and measure to the chrome shaft of the shocks or to the frame rail.

It probably feels twitchy because the axle is not centered and the toe-in is off. I have run several lifted XJ's and never have bothered with adjusting the caster angle.

Set toe. Can easily be done with a tape measure. I believe I ran 3" lift in my XJ for about a year with stock track bar. The blown shocks were the the big issue.

Ok ... I took apart the front end, and took some measurements from the top BJ zerk to the frame rail, touching the tape measure against the shock absorber as a placement guide. I did the exact same measurement on both sides, and the driver's side ball joint is 5/8" farther from the frame than the passenger side. So the axle needs to be moved 5/16" toward the passenger side to make them both equal.

Tomorrow, I'll also use the string method going off the rear wheels to see if that produces similar results.

Re-drilling a new hole in the passenger-side bracket isn't an option, because it would overlap the old hole. I thought of welding a washer on, but I can't really access the back side of the bracket for that side.

So ... I'm in the market for an adjustable track bar for a 2" lift.

I've heard the Rough Country TBs have problems with the tie-rod end on the driver's side ... you have to go through several of them to get a good one.

We have a few recommendations for JKS ... any others?

Thanks

Having the axle not centered should pretty much make no difference in the drivability as long as the toe and caster is correct.

old_man said:

Having the axle not centered should pretty much make no difference in the drivability as long as the toe and caster is correct.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the recommendation. I will definitely make sure that the toe and caster are correct. No disrespect intended, but I disagree with you on centering the axle. I want to have the front and rear tires lined up together in the same track. It was centered before I lifted it, and I want it centered properly after the lift, and willing to put in the extra time/money for that. But again, I mean no disrespect. You've helped a lot of people on this forum, and I respect that.

Any recommendations on an adjustable track bar for 2" lift?

I ran 3" lift with stock track bar for 2 years with no issues. You can get away with it for sure at 2". If it bothers you that much though, go for an adjustable one with a double sheer end like Iron Rock Offroad. Or just drill another hole in your stock bar to account for the offset.

MagicNelson said:

an adjustable one with a double sheer end like Iron Rock Offroad.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the recommendation. Any others?

Much appreciated.

x2 Iron Rock Offroad


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I'm not a big fan of the IRO trackbar and would do the JKS, as well.

http://jksmfg.com/i-13306791-cherok...kbar-fits-1-3-5-lift.html?ref=category:381059

Although I run a 2" lift and use the stock trackbar. I'm sure by strict measurement the axle is not centered, but its visually close enough that I don't notice.

Thanks for the advice. Lots of recommendations for IRO, but I can't find one for XJ under 3 inches of lift:

http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/XJ%20Track%20Bars.html

The JKS OGS126 looks interesting.

Thanks guys ... keep it coming. It is much appreciated.

Most track bars will work with far less lift than they are advertised for. Worst-case scenario you can cut the excess threads off the track bar (like on the RE1660).

Whatever you do, avoid the RE1600, OGS126, or any single-shear track bar that requires that you bore out the factory bracket... Huge pain, and not worth it in hindsight. The IRO 10117 appears to retain the factory TRE-style frame end, but is very similar to Rusty's.

Honestly, you can get the RE1660 bar and 1665 bracket for the same price as the JKS via Serious Offroad.

cal said:

I'm not a big fan of the IRO trackbar and would do the JKS, as well.

http://jksmfg.com/i-13306791-cherok...kbar-fits-1-3-5-lift.html?ref=category:381059

Click to expand...

I agree, only caveat that should be noted is the JKS trackbar will require you to drill out the stock frame side mount to a 9/16" hole. (install instructions are listed on their site).