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96 xj sport 5.3 swap

im sure it could but i dont know of any brackets on the market that do that, however if you have fab skills you can make the accesories do whatever the hell you want

I've had to do that before on other vehicles, but it's a PITA if they don't line up 100%....much easier to use proven stuff if it is available....

Not to highjack but I put my Alt on the pass side with home made brackets and retained the Jeep PS pump. Pics in my thread.

/highjack

cleenrob your setup looks nice. I initially was going to use the factory truck bracket but the PS pump pulley hit the steering box so I ditched it.
 
Not to highjack but I put my Alt on the pass side with home made brackets and retained the Jeep PS pump. Pics in my thread.

/highjack

cleenrob your setup looks nice. I initially was going to use the factory truck bracket but the PS pump pulley hit the steering box so I ditched it.

once i get my trans mount in ill decide what ill do since i wont have a final drivetrain angle till then, even so the pulley is right on top of the high pressure port on the steering box so ill likely have to do something about it.

iot not high jacking either the whole point of doing the thread is to show how i did it if you have relevent .02c to throw in by all means throw it in :)
 
No pic since i ran out of daylight, but i got the transfer case bolted up, and as i was doing that my AA trans mount showed up so i threw the crossmember up and set the trans on the xmember,

Ps pulley is still an issue but ill tackle that tomorrow

Im also still trying to decide what i want to do for the sender, and if i want to bother t
With the 255 pump or just use the 92 pump that came with the sender i grabbed..
 
My opinion: Run the stock pump, then upgrade if necessary.

I ran the numbers and based on rough math of an 87 pump/sender setup, if the pump is good and produces the advertised volume then it should be enough. Usually those pumps don't though, but this is always easy to check with a fuel pressure gauge and WOT pulls to see if pressure drops significantly.

No sense in dropping the couple hundred dollars on a pump you may not need. Even if you end up needing it, the engine will run fine on most driving conditions until WOT.

If I get my running and tuned, I'll report back if i ended up ordering one. I have a large cam though, so maybe not apples to apples, but it's info for you.
 
got the power steering pump to clear, ended up pulling it apart and re-drilling the holes about 3/4" up on the bracket, i ended up removing one bolt/spacer from the bracket permanently since the back of the pump was hitting it(i could have notched it to fit but the bolt head was behind the PS pulley and i figured it wasnt super necessary) the fill cap is pretty close to the alt. but i can still get it off, also had to tweak the gm high pressure line to clear the pulley

now ive got about 1/2" of clearance










My opinion: Run the stock pump, then upgrade if necessary.

I ran the numbers and based on rough math of an 87 pump/sender setup, if the pump is good and produces the advertised volume then it should be enough. Usually those pumps don't though, but this is always easy to check with a fuel pressure gauge and WOT pulls to see if pressure drops significantly.

No sense in dropping the couple hundred dollars on a pump you may not need. Even if you end up needing it, the engine will run fine on most driving conditions until WOT.

If I get my running and tuned, I'll report back if i ended up ordering one. I have a large cam though, so maybe not apples to apples, but it's info for you.

im gonna start with the oe pump and assembly, the sending unit its self is different that the pre 95 unit i picked up so its not just plug and play like i though it would be. so im going to delete the stock pressure reg. plum it straight, and at a return near the top of the tank. i figured after dick'n around with the other sender this would be the easier way to go, plus my motor is all stock aside from the intake and injectors(which dont really offer any gain over the truck stuff)
 
also worked on the sending unit, yanked the pressure reg. out and replaced it with a section of 3/8 submersible line



and figured out what im doing for the return line

going to rtv the snot out of my "gaskets", drill a hole in the tank, and tighten it all up, should seal nice and tight...in theory.

also going to do the fuel tank vent mod to stuff about 3ish extra gallons in the tank..i figure i might as well whilst i have access to the inside of the tank

 
RTV inside a fuel tank is sub-optimal.

BTDT.

Found out the hard way when the filter plugged up and the truck (older Suburban) conked out on a highway in Mexico. At least in that situation the filter was easily accessed and I was able to resolve the issue and be back on the road within 15 minutes.

Make sure your gaskets will seal without need for anything else.
 
RTV inside a fuel tank is sub-optimal.

BTDT.

Found out the hard way when the filter plugged up and the truck (older Suburban) conked out on a highway in Mexico. At least in that situation the filter was easily accessed and I was able to resolve the issue and be back on the road within 15 minutes.

Make sure your gaskets will seal without need for anything else.

ill look around and see if i can find a gas compatible sealant, i think the gaskets will seal just fine i just want some extra insurance
 
got the return line plumbed up(still need to get some 5/16" fuel line), fuel pump assembly installed, and corvette fuel filter installed, used a factory treaded hole and bolt that held the stock fuel filter in place
 
That mounting hole worked out nicely :)
 
You just turn the fuel tank vent up instead of down, it allows the tank to fill more than stock.

Yea that about sums it up

Inside the tank theres an inlet for the fill neck and a vent to allow air into the tank as the fuel is used. You can extwnd /raise the vent with some piping and it allows more room in the tank before the vent stops it from filling up and farther
 
did a bunch of small stuff, plugged almost everything in, tightened up the bolts on the intake, bolted in the replacement coil that i damaged dropping the engine in, nearly finished the fuel system(built my first braided -AN line!) still need to add the return line from the filter to the port i added on the tank.
 
not sure why is wont stay running at this point, but its too hot to keep going for a while,.

funny thing is i tried to start it for about an hour before that before i relized id forgot to connect the 5.3 harness grounds...
 
I missed grounds too. There's so many it's hard not to
 
after a couple googles, im thinking its probably because i didnt have the MAF plugged in so ill try again later if my battery still has juice, ill have to go steal my dads charger to keep going
 
oh and i also got the power steering system filled and bled so the pump would run dry, and put on a belt, back when i did the volvo/taurus fan swap a coupl years ago i eliminated the fan clutch pulley from the a/c bracket and changed by belt routing to clear the fan, and the belt that was on the 4.0 was a perfect fit after i swapped the original truck tensioner pulley onto the l99 belt tensioner, i also think i will have to go to the smaller PS pulley since i could tweak the return line much more without kinking it

 
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