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Rear lower shock nut size?

W

Woodswanderer

NAXJA Forum User
Location
SEPA
Just looking to verify, is the rear shock lower mounting stud nut m12x1.25? Grade 10.9? Looking to replace mine after chasing the threads on the stud with a tap and die


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Not sure I'm following this. How do use a tap to dress an external thread? However you could use it to restore the nuts (or at least their threads). If you don't like re-using nuts (me, I don't like buying new nuts - except stainless acorns as dress-up items) the markings on your tap & or die will tell you what thread they are.
 
XJI6191 said:
Not sure I'm following this. How do use a tap to dress an external thread? However you could use it to restore the nuts (or at least their threads). If you don't like re-using nuts (me, I don't like buying new nuts - except stainless acorns as dress-up items) the markings on your tap & or die will tell you what thread they are.
Click to expand...


I should have clarified better lol. Tap handle and die. I dont own a set but now have reason to lol. I’m having issues with the lower nuts backing off after torqued and my lower bushings are egged out according to the mechanic that installed my BPE’s. Figure if i chase the threads and recut them then install new nuts/washers it’ll help.

Found a thread at cherokeetalk forum. Listed these as m12x1.75 nuts so i went and bought some grade 10.9 stainless ones from the hardware store. Would have rather had yellow zinc coated nyloc nuts but these will do with a bit of red loctite i suppose.


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Woodswanderer said:
my lower bushings are egged out according to the mechanic that installed my BPE’s.
Click to expand...

That's very possible with lift and/or a sye or even axle shims, any rotation of the axle causes the lower mount to rotate. The only solution for that is to rotate the mounts.
 
RCP Phx said:
That's very possible with lift and/or a sye or even axle shims, any rotation of the axle causes the lower mount to rotate. The only solution for that is to rotate the mounts.
Click to expand...

Btw, the air shocks only exacerbate the problem.
 
I would also recommend a full crossover mount for the upper if you want to continue using air shocks.
 
RCP Phx said:
That's very possible with lift and/or a sye or even axle shims, any rotation of the axle causes the lower mount to rotate. The only solution for that is to rotate the mounts.
Click to expand...


No lift afaik, but it could have happened unintentionally when i rebuilt the suspension 😅. Its very likely that my axle/driveshaft alignment is out of spec, i never got it reset after doing the leafs

Mechanic said the nuts werent very tight when he pulled everything off for BPE’s to go on. I may not have torqued them down enough when i was last in there. I figure the extra movement is what caused the bushings to egg. I have poly bushings ready to go in the lower eye that i will do when i replace the nuts.


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Typical stainless nuts and bolts are 304 SS. Its low strength, it galls easily, and it will cause a galvanic reaction against a steel nut or bolt. Its much better to go with zinc plated hardware.
 
I was reminded of this thread when I came undo one of mine & the stud sheared off. Perhaps I should have attached more importance to the 3 thick washers under the 15/16" nut.

So what do I do now? I've tried to remove a stud from my parts jeep but that appears to be impossible, which presumable means I won't be able to remove the remains of the old one either.
 
maxbraketorque said:
Typical stainless nuts and bolts are 304 SS. Its low strength, it galls easily, and it will cause a galvanic reaction against a steel nut or bolt. Its much better to go with zinc plated hardware.
Click to expand...


🤷🏼*♂️ these are supposedly hardened. Good enough for me. Im not heavy wheeling it. It it means anti seize down the line or replacing them again in the future with new nuts so be it. I’m not spending $20 for 2 zinc coated versions of these 😅


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I broke the threaded part of my lower stud off I don't remember exactly how I removed the broken part but I drilled a hole where the stud was located and used a bolt and nut to mount the shock.
 
Woodswanderer said:
🤷🏼*♂️ these are supposedly hardened. Good enough for me. Im not heavy wheeling it. It it means anti seize down the line or replacing them again in the future with new nuts so be it. I’m not spending $20 for 2 zinc coated versions of these 😅


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Click to expand...

Install them with anti-seize now, not down the line.

The reason you need to use anti-seize with stainless is to prevent galling during installation. It you get galling it will also come with work hardening. The combination of those two processes might as well be compared to welding. That combination of galling plus work hardening is what leads to destroyed hardware. Prevent the galling up front and you won't get the work hardening. Anti-seize is the best way to prevent the galling.
 
XJI6191 said:
I was reminded of this thread when I came undo one of mine & the stud sheared off. Perhaps I should have attached more importance to the 3 thick washers under the 15/16" nut.

So what do I do now? I've tried to remove a stud from my parts jeep but that appears to be impossible, which presumable means I won't be able to remove the remains of the old one either.
Click to expand...

I do not believe those studs are designed to be removed.

You will probably need to grind the remains of the old one flush. Grinding it might allow you to punch out whatever will be left. If not you will need to drill it out. Then install a bolt-on shock mount stud, like one of these: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wst-56000?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAjwyaWZBhBGEiwACslQoxt296NNnuskcOUDE3TuDKmc2z20JfchinWa8XvJlS4Z4MFUvrDaGBoCQUUQAvD_BwE
 
Anak said:
Install them with anti-seize now, not down the line.

The reason you need to use anti-seize with stainless is to prevent galling during installation. It you get galling it will also come with work hardening. The combination of those two processes might as well be compared to welding. That combination of galling plus work hardening is what leads to destroyed hardware. Prevent the galling up front and you won't get the work hardening. Anti-seize is the best way to prevent the galling.
Click to expand...


👍🏻👍🏻 easy enough, theres a lifetime supply of copper antiseize floating around here somewhere 😉

Fwiw, its a Hilman m12x1.75 grade 10.9 stainless nut. Took the size and grade from the BPT ebay kit for $18 and cherokeetalk thread with all bolt/nut sizes


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Anak said:
I do not believe those studs are designed to be removed.
Click to expand...

That's the impression I got, certainly not after 20+ years

Anak said:
. . . You will probably need to grind the remains of the old one flush. Grinding it might allow you to punch out whatever will be left. If not you will need to drill it out. Then install a bolt-on shock mount stud . . .
Click to expand...

I was afraid that would be the answer, as that was the conclusion I'd reached, just hoping I was wrong. Certainly don't think I've much hope of drilling out something that size - but, nothing ventured, nothing gained.
 
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