Dual battery setup

Here I go again!

What do I need to get to set up two batterys in my XJ? I have a 1988 4.0L/AW4 and I'm planning on getting a winch up front. I think I need another battery in there anyway, just to be sure I have enough power. I have seen tech writeups on this, but nothing really detailed about the wiring involved in this. I now I can fit another battery in the engine compartment where the filterbox is today. I will be installing an airtube with a K&N soon and I have a diesel battery that's sitting in the garage waiting to be used for this. Do I need another generator?, or will the stock charge two batterys? Any input is greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance!
Arnt H. Andresen
Trondheim, Norway

The OEM alternator will chage the two batteries, but it will be S-L-O-W doing it. You don't need a second alternator to improve charging, it is a simple matter (usually) to replace your OEMR unit with one rated for greater power output.

While most here will recomment Mean Green or Mr. Alternator (both online,) I don't know about international shipping for them. Check your local listings for shops that specialise in automotive electrics - especially starter and alternator rebuilds - and that wa yot wo$t havepo vorrH abnut `ipping and the`asd prHbe will likely be lower anyhow. In addition, you can tell a local rhopDXABTLYphat yo want,
hd thatvill maJ` it eaBaer to `t.

I don't know about the Mitsubishi unit used on 91+ XJs, but H ge my Delds done`oc`lly@ 87,90X
! fnr a`ood price and a rated power output of 140A peak, and about 60A at idle.

I also suaest yo "irolad" the "`ttdrie whdn td engine is notpunning, and run your winch and add-ons directly off of the auxiliary b
rtery. Phat waH yot ca usd thDa whthop the eaine ruhing and have your start battery untouched, or use the deep cycle tn jup your #qarting battery `n a pinch. Th$pe `re Bclid-stte devices to accomplish this (check RV and Boat supply houses) or xou `n tse "cnnst@bt-duty" industBjal mott snlenbd (che` hydraulic and heavy truck supply houses, or Allied Electronics) tn geD thd sa` rdsul for leCp and epier rebacdmenD @lso"a good solenoid will be rated for more current than a reasonably-priced solid patd de`ce can`andle. Maje spe xou Bpechfy B`onstant duty" or "100% duty cycle" for your solenoid - both mean the s`e thin(

Ho did yor txre Bdrrher pojdct b, or h
pe you gotten going on that yet? Just wondering...

I do believe Alldd rhip(interntionall btt I `an't s'`ar to it ar ye$ You will probably be able to find most of what you need locally `nywp.

O - xou `ll wan!thd Dipel XJ `ttdry `unting€ait to put the second battery underhood, or you can run cable and mnunt`t in a box beh hd the #`at if du preft.

5L10

I agree with what 5-90 said. I installed the same setup in my '88 except I went with the dual battery controller from Hellroaring out of Montana http://www.hellroaring.com/ I wanted the extra control of the Hellroaring unit, although it wasn't cheap, I think it is a great unit. Also, a couple other things I ran into that may save you some time. If your radiator has a filler neck (converted to an open system) it is tight fitting in the second battery. I went with an Optima, the only style I could get to fit easily. The factory brackets for the diesel battery tray will need to be cut down to fit, not a big deal, but you may want to go with something cheaper if your going to hack it up anyways. The smaller K&N filter with the Rusty's air tube kit fits nicely, the larger K&N won't work, not enough room. Good Luck.

Woody

http://tekonsha.com/teabatswitch.html available at RV supply places. Has worked well for 2 years now on my CJ, for wiring I used the Painless trunk battery mount kit #40100 & a few xtra terminals since it was high quality heavy gauge wire. I'd suppose some welding lead cable and a few terminals would do just as well. I'd suggest upgrading to #1 or so cables since they are going to be handling lots of current when the winch is in use.... dunno if you can do much with the wiring on the alternator to bat. side of things (guys?) but if you upgrade the alt I'd think it would be a good idea.
HTH,
Mike B.

Battery wiring upgrade? Sure - another trip to a local shop! Go to the local welder supply house and buy some 2/0 cable (measure first - here in the States we pay $1.50-2.00 per foot, but it's worth it!) and some 3/8" ring lugs. Switch to Marine battery terminals (the sort with the wing nut and bolt - check the boat shop) and use brass terminals if they have them.

I also suggest you put some sort of corrosion inhibitor into the lug pockets before you insert and crimp the terminals, and either wrap with electrical tape or seal with heat-shrinkable tubing after assembly. If you have corrosion inhibitor squidge out of the terminal when you crimp, you're doing good. Check your local hardware store for the latter - should be in the electrical section. Here, the stuff most used is made by Gardner-Bender, and is called "Ox-Gard." You should be able to find something similar.

Welder cable costs about twice what you'd pay for battery cable, but will stand up to more abuse than the underhood enviroment can hand it, and will therefore cost less over the life of the mod. I also suggest you install split loom tubing over the cable before you install it, as extra abrasion protection (why take chances? You have everything torn to bits anyhow...)

If you have any more questions - ask away!

5-90

Gojeep has a complete write-up on the wire-upgrade. Ive followed it so far and the wires look professional. The most expensive part is the fuse/fusebox to replace the in-line fuse going to the alt.

Welder's cable works fine. I used the color coded #1/0 gage wire at NAPA - enough to do the battery, alt, grounds etc for $30 including the wire terminal ends. (Note - this was for an underhood installation in oem location.) (Marcus and Craig have some great info - between the two sites ANYONE should be able to do this...)

Craig's wiring upgrade (& other tech)

Scored a 180 amp alternator on eBay about 3 years ago when I did the wiring upgrade- $96 shipped - idle charge is fine.

imma honky said:

Gojeep has a complete write-up on the wire-upgrade. Ive followed it so far and the wires look professional. The most expensive part is the fuse/fusebox to replace the in-line fuse going to the alt.

Click to expand...

BlueSea / MegaFuse? Yup - them suckers cost about $9 each not counting the fuse holder.

lunghd said:

BlueSea / MegaFuse? Yup - them suckers cost about $9 each not counting the fuse holder.

Click to expand...

My fuse(175A) was 12 bucks. The holder was like $25, but its completely covered from elements.

I'm getting my stuff from wranglernw.com They have been great to talk to. I'll be fabbing my own trays and mounting where my rear seat used to be. You shouildn't need a higher output alt (wouldn't hurt) and definitely an isolator.

P