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WJ Knuckle Swap Question

truck7575

truck7575

NAXJA Forum User
Location
georgetown
So, I have a dana 30 and I am doing a WJ knuckle swap, my question is do I have to change out the tie rod and drag link? I already have a Control arm drop bracket and adjustable Rugged Ridge crossover steering setup with a drop pitman arm. Would it work? It seems to me that you could just use the upper ears on the WJ knuckle and run the XJ setup and not even need the bottom ears. Plus I know that the tie rod ends have a different taper but I could simply drill them out and use an adapter insert. Tell me what you all think and give me recommendations.

Thx
Rick
 
Only the passenger side WJ knuckle has the upper arm. The TRE taper is the same however so you can run a stock style steering setup no problem.
 
Sell the Rugged Ridge and buy/build steering for the WJ setup. WJ steering is a big benefit of going with the WJ knuckles. Should help bumpsteer, toe changes, etc.
 
So the TRE taper is the same for the XJ and WJ as far as where the Tie Rod Connects? Second, Why is there such a big benefit in using the WJ setup over the XJ setup? I guess I am asking specifically what and how it makes it better
 
yes.

brakes & crossover steering
 
and the ability to get a nice OTK/semi-hi steer
 
What I mean is why is stock WJ tie rod and drag link better than my heavy duty adjustable tie rod and drag link. Is the different steering geometry? If so why is that better than the XJ's geometry.
 
the stock steering isnt necessarily better, but you can build a better aftermarket steering for a WJ setup than you can a reg. 30.

here's a pic of my steering; OTK tie rod, JKS track bar axle mount, RE track bar drop bracket, stock pitman arm
DSC_00930001.jpg
 
truck7575 said:
Second, Why is there such a big benefit in using the WJ setup over the XJ setup? I guess I am asking specifically what and how it makes it better
Click to expand...

Darky said:
Sell the Rugged Ridge and buy/build steering for the WJ setup. WJ steering is a big benefit of going with the WJ knuckles. Should help bumpsteer, toe changes, etc.
Click to expand...
Why go through the work of doing the swap if you don't know the benefits.
 
I began wanting to do this swap for the improvement in braking performance, I am just now looking at the difference in tie rod and drag link as I didn't realize that a lot of people switch to this set up too. So to reply nicely, I was doing the swap for the braking performance now I wondering about switching out the steering linkages too :)
 
To the OP: Yeah, same here. at 2.5" of lift I'm putting upgraded steering on the back burner, getting the brakes is more than enough reward for me (at the moment)

The crossover steering takes some play out of the system, shrinking the dead spot in the wheel. Higher drag link means you can tolerate more lift without losing effective steering.
Think about trying to push or pull something with your arms at 45 degrees overhead. Is it easier or harder than doing the same task with your arms at shoulder level?
Much harder.
Why?
I don't know, but the same principals apply to your steering :)
Flatter = better.
 
For me, the ability to get rid of bump steer and toe change would be a great benefit, the inverted y we have stock strikes me as a retarded idea.
 
I think it's a lot of work doing the WJ steering. But if you have the tools and experience, it's not bad at all, really.

I'm running WJ brakes/knuckles on the wife's XJ, because it's mainly a driver and camping rig, I just wanted good brakes. The stock brakes are pitifully inadequate with larger tires. Coupled with rear discs and the disc brake prop valve mod, the brakes are superb.

I'm running stock-style steering on it with a ZJ pitman arm. The WJ lower knuckle is almost an inch lower than that on the XJ/TJ/ZJ knuckle, and the ZJ pitman lowers the upper drag link to match.


Edit: If you have more money available than time, I would get the Vanco big brake kit and Currie steering. No major mods, and bolt on in a couple hours.
 
Mine measures 35" from the center of each hole. (Thats with everything centered up) But I'm also on 5 of lift and I built it custom.

I Assumed you meant the length of the draglink...
 
Last edited:
What brand and part # tie rod did you use? Did you use WJ TRE's? I purchased a direct replacement WJ tie rod from JKS and it is way too long, did you modify a tie rod to make it fit?
 
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